RoboKlipsch

a smooth responding sub will need that higher volume to make you happy but i understand...as the baby grows it all changes every few months the svs sub dsp is not adjusting to your room...it is built in to make it perform well in the box they built it for. it helps make the response flat down to 20. put the sub a foot out of the corner and listen to it...then move it out more or less based upon what you like once it sounds good recalibrate and dial it in and try again the car sub has a whole other set of attributes but most likely you like your car sub to sound like your 12sw....you havent measured and used the dsp but if you smoothed the response it would be more like the svs describe the room...is it open to other rooms....big ?

if you get 150 out of a ps3 youve already got an xmas present! ps4 is very nice for blu ray...make sure you set it to linear pcm so dts and dolby master will play

i am beginning to believe its your ears. ive been down this road an average sub like the 10sw or 12sw has a huge bump at 50hz which is what you are liking....i had a 10sw and remember the svs has built in dsp to make most rooms flat to at least 20hz getting used to a real sub takes time your issue is common...we all have this there is only something called "reference" with regards to movies and theater even though the last 10 to 20 years has better recordings....read the sentence above this again there is no music reference. so some newer recordings may sound amazing some of your favorites may sound weak with reference calibration the best way to deal is to turn up the subwoofer in the avr. this boosts the whole sub and not just say 50hz. i love satriani but much of it was recorded long ago. a typical boost to subs with music is say 6db. but theres no right or wrong. try the music you like adjusting the sub as mentioned above. for movies try reference for a while and if you think its weak boost it up. you will be surprised at reference how many basic tv programs have huge bass even news shows have it give it some timr. you ear is trained to like music produced by subs everybody has had for 30yrs youve graduated and it takes time to adjust. if this doesnt work sure you an turn the 12sw on for music but i wouldnt. placement of that svs sub will also have major impact on its response fyi. if you hate it now move it closer to a corner and start smiling

Audyssey is great imo regardless of room conditions in a highly reflective room it helps lower some of the ringing in a treated room it makes speakers even better the issue is not just the speakers its the room brightness comes from strong reflections of high frequencies different speakers or avr could help but you are fighting the room consider a few early reflection acoustic panels....they would improve ANY setup you have and will eliminate the brightness the underlying problem is the room....fix it you can use any speaker otherwise you are working around the room issues

if it set it to 2db it sounds like it its getting signal. the signal either is strong enough or not....turning it up after just boosts the sub which is ok but not necessary for calibration. you need to run some test tones off youtube. try subwoofer test and look for a few and see what they do dont crank them up at first see what they do then go up as needed. theres a blue screen one that tests from 100 down to 5hz which is a good ez one. the splash screen has 60hz on it. if the tones are consistent and loud then the issue is your ears! if not theres more investigating to do. when using a "real" sub that is calibrated it can seem disappointing because the one note boom of a sub like a 12sw is powerful on certain notes....without that...because the svs has a smoother response....it can seem weak. this should be ez. you may not be used to a good sub calibrated or the sub may not work right you need to use it more before judging imo

is the svs new or bought used?

This is the "tell" that setup did not go right. Some avrs have issues with providing enough signal to the sub to properly drive it. Having to turn the gain all the way up in a room less than massive says the gain is not high enough from the avr. Dont judge it until you get it setup properly and can judge what you really have.

The Denon is handling it so they are 2nd hpf and 4th lpf

here is a set of measurements showing the value of dialing in distance/delay. the 10 measurements have identical everything except they differ by 1ms in subwoofer delay -- 100hz crossover setting. as you can see frequencies as low as 50 hz are affected by the 100hz crossover as are frequencies up to 150hz. audyysey does not get this right very often placement and room treatment are more important but failing to adjust the delay can result in terrible midbass and getting it right creates an almost flat graph across all frequencies with multiple subs they must first be dialed in together and then delay set as a group again since audyssey cannot set delay properly (with regards to the sub channels ONLY) I would always recommend someone with multiple subs dial in the subs first manually and then treat as one sub for integration purposes

no need to build this one then pick another horn design!

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=81 http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=95

What you first asked about would work but it would help if you explained how you came to those choices imo matching series is a benefit especially up front with full respect to all opinions my view is matching the center to the series you buy is more important than which is perhaps the best if you get rp280s get a 450c if you get rf7s or rf62s even an rc64 is great when three speakers up front are identical its amazing when the three up front are the same series i.e. rp280s with rp450c its close because tweeters match when they are different series and sound pans across the three its a bit obvious the change in sound my 2c! 115sw is a big upgrade in the low end but 112 is fine

i too have the above and originally bought a r25c the r25 is the only speaker i ever returned i could hear the difference immediately if you dont want to spend that much you could get a used rc52 or rc62

What is so cool for me is the realization that in the 50s there was no real sense amongst anyone that sound could be reproduced.....at all. yes they had phonograph players but we all know how good they were.....well those of us over 40 You think of history science and technology and realize we are living in the birth of sound reproduction we didnt miss it like so many advances....loved this interview its so basic what she asks yet his answers touch of deep topics like low frequency wavelengths im proud to use Klipsch....prouder now after hearing this lol anyone with a Klipschorn here he explains it....as he says a JOKE at first! woofer term used in 54 midrange is a "squawker" then tweeter he never says klipschorn but i asuume they were looking at a brochure with the name on it his voice has that authoritative tone of "real men" of gravitas and respect. i enjoyed this as much as anything klipsch related absolutely delightful ☺ listen to the final minute you hear an announcement regarding the mccarthy senate hearings wow what a clip this is

Welcome aboard Houston 👍 You will quickly forget this comment as I know the excitement of the new equipment is overwhelming and awesome My #1 goal if that were my room -- $500 to $1200 on treating that room. Early side wall and ceiling reflections and then as many bass traps as you can afford in budget. DIY is an amazing value but pro made works great just more expensive. 1. The first rule of HT is nobody talks about treating the room. In a small room its make or break imo. 2. If you do #1 then spend $1500 on subs. 2 really nice ones. 3. That's $2000 to $2700 there. $500 on a nice used AVR. 4. $800 to $1500 on speakers. Unless you are going to move to a larger room soon you dont need big speakers in there. Smaller front stage with bass traps and good subs will turn out better imo. 5. Bonus buy: Go used on everything save an extra $800 and get a 60" or larger 4k tv. Doesn't need to be top of the line just solid. Used is a huge savings for speakers and AVRs. DIY treatment is fun easy and very cheap. Speakers are key but almost last in the process. The key is the room will dominate all other factors until it is tamed. Once tamed it will beat real theaters and be able to play LFE down below 10hz easily and past reference (headroom).

Imo alignment of sources is about distance from sources and at lower frequencies the room is the most important factor...blending multiple subs is entirely room dependent. so yes outdoors will be different because the low end only has the ground for reenforcement while inside there are the walls and ceiling.

Your output at, above and below the crossover are at their highest. If youd like to see an example im sure ive got some measurements. What many people do is this....set your crossover frequency....then reverse rhe polarity of the sub (s). Change the distance until you haventhe biggest null - suckout or huge dip in response. Once found change the polarity back and you then have optimized the crossover timing.

When we time align subs to mains the crossover is often 80ish and because of this the distance setting repeats every roughly 7 or 8ms. So lets say swl finds 0ms to sound good. If we measured the response a similar low end response would occur at say 7ms and 14ms delay. What would change is the integration of the upper low end bass as you go to 7ms and 14ms. Precisely the range being discussed. Delay is extremely critical and has up to a 15db gain or loss around the crossover but also has huge effects on nulls. Time alignment ime is more important than everything but placement and treatment.

The advice above is all good. My best guess is its positional. We tend to put a sub in corners or against walls as it looks good there. To test the theory its positional move the sub to the middle of the room where you have the least pressure. See if its less boomy and if so you know its a positional issue. Most likely you need to simply move it out from the wall (s). Walls can be a huge help in calibration but if not calibrated the low end is boosted and boomy near a wall or corner.

Hsu is ok imo. the specs are good but i have seen and heard them bottom too easily svs is foolproof with their warranties klipsch 115sw is excellent ported provides a significant boost at the low end one pb1000 will likely match the ouput of 2 or more sb1000s down low but its a bigger box

klipsch describes all of their speakers with horns as far as directivity and coverage 90 lateral and 60 vertical is quite popular as is 90 x 90

i recently picked up a used denon avrx4000 and find it to work very well. good news is most any avr will work well with klipsch

Im looking for a nice remote that can control a denon avr xfinity cable vizio tv ps3 etc. Any suggestions? Im thinking $50ish range?

much as i love klipsch ive never liked the value of the r10sw or r12sw even at half price. they just dont play low and many klipsch floorstanders can cover their range making them not useless but only helpful to smooth response. watts are not the key here its frequency response and sensitivity. if you are mostly music low end response of the svs is less useful but if you watch movies and tv theres a lot going on from 20 to 35hz that the low end klipsch subs miss. valuewise i think a r12sw is not worth half a pb1000 so my vote is upgrade now to svs or the klipsch r115sw. one good sub is better than 2 mediocre subs upgrade and hear for yourself!

Agree the sub is not doing much. Definitely need a floor model. The key in your room isnt the equipment its treating the left wall. Without that no equipment will sound good.