Maximus89

I had a Rc-7 channel that could get a bit harsh when really loud but I loved that center. I heard the Rf-7 IIs and felt they were a bit too bright but the Rf-7 IIIs are incredible and smooth. My first experience with the ti tweeter was in a KLF-10 and I thought it was a very noticeable change for the better. In 3 ways they haven’t been as noticeable but I have them in my Chorus II. I should note with stock crossovers so perhaps a cap refresh would help make them more noticeable. I suppose going ti mid in the Chorus I would be a good test as even if I would prefer phenolic for mids in music, the ti would probably be outstanding for movies which is what the Chorus are doing right now anyway. I can always let them break in for a while with movies before truly testing them for music. I definitely need to try it and the tube port mod. The 2.5oz mod on the Chorus II passive radiator kicks *** so I respect your opinion and recommended mods! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have Chorus II for music and the Chorus are doing movie surround with KLF-10 surrounds and a KLF-C7 center, so I figured I might as well match the fronts but I do quite like the Chorus and I have yet to do the 7" port mod or add titanium tweeter diaphragms or even drive them with much power. Was even considering Ti mids as well but not sure. Through my research ive found most complained about the harshness and overly loud Ti mids in the Forte II and Chorus II and I've found those who were always speaking positively about the Ti mids usually had them in the Forte I. Different crossover points at fault? Wonder if it would be the same in the Chorus I as it would for the Forte I? I've known about the tons of mods to do on the KLF-30's though and it is intriguing.

I asked for a trade for Chorus and got no response. First pair of KLF-30's I've ever seen in Houston.

Edited out

$1100 for local pick up in Massachusetts. Still up on eBay with 7 watchers.

I made a mistake when i said "rosewood" as one of the veneers it came with. Meant to say Mahogany. Apparently they also came in Cherry and they did come in Walnut! Awesome! I had ZERO idea they ever made them in walnut and then i just came across a CF-3 version 1 on eBay in Walnut. GORGEOUS!!! 😍

In Houston. Offered him Chorus and KLF-C7 for trade just to try and jump any cash offers he may currently have. No response.

Are they version 1?

Yours look better than the outdated natural oak look. Would love to have that stain for my Chorus IIs. 👍

What original medium oak CF speakers look like:

Looks like it says Oak and the previous owner restained them in what looks like walnut stain. They look good!

I had no idea the CF series came out in walnut. You sure it’s not Rosewood? From memory, I think they were only released in oak, ebony, white wash, and rosewood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really curious how that Ti mid would work out for me and my Chorus II. I’m not an ear bleeding volume type of guy. Lower to upper mid volume is most of my listening and I’m thinking that titanium would really shine at those volumes. I mean even my la Scalas made my ears hurt and ran me out of the room when the volume was blasting and the k400 was stabbing my ear drums. So deafening loud volumes just aren’t my thing with any speaker. I’d expect tons of detail and clarity with the Ti mids at mid volume. Was the Crites high band pass absolutely necessary and critical to make it sound right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe the kit is only the Sonicaps. Perhaps at that point, you should invest a little more in “higher quality” or “higher rated” capacitors? Only issue is if they fit onto the stock board, or do you plan to make your board like Crites does? If the latter then size doesn’t matter. At least that’s what I hope she said. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

$1,000 easily for CHII in Texas and they don't have to be mint.

I want my La Scalas back 😭 I love my Chorus II's and now i got Chorus I to go with them(Had Heresy II's for the first time this past month and didn't like them at first, but after placement adjustments and putting them in the bigger room, i grew to love them but sold them this week to help fund my Chorus I), but having 4 La Scalas was incredible. Though them being industrial splits made it easier to sell as they were pretty ugly to have in a living room. When i get like this, i just remind myself of the rabbit hole of non stop obsessing over upgrading the crossovers, the tweeters, and then buying multiple good enough subwoofers that could keep up for movies. Then i'd move on to dreaming of tubes for 2ch etc. It was never ending. With the Chorus II, i enjoy them as is and only now and then dream of mods and upgrading anything else. I do also remind myself how ear fatiguing the k-400 was at loud volumes. I'm more of a low to mid level listener so i'd probably love the FIII with their TI diaphragms being crystal clear and detailed at low volumes.

Do you have the Crites Titanium Diaphragm replacements for the tweeters? That's a good upgrade for about $60 for the pair. If the crossovers, you can send your stock board to Crites to replace the capacitors for $110, or if you know how to solder, you can get his kit for $56 to DIY. If you DIY, you can probably get more bang for your buck by ordering higher quality capacitors yourself instead of the SoniCaps Crites uses/sells.

What exactly does the Watco rejuvenating oil do if I applied it to the Danish Oil while it’s curing before applying poly? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yours look really good though I prefer slightly less red, but it looks like you were trying to match the original look which did have a slightly red tone to it. I know about the rags, laid them out on the trash can after use. The oil needs reapplication after a year, but what about if I used a satin poly top coat after the Danish oil cured? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@finebokeh made custom racks in distressed oak to match his distressed oak Forte III What he did: "I used Minwax wood finish penetrating stain, a coat of Weathered Oak 270 followed by a coat of Classic Gray 271. Given a second chance I would experiment by mixing the two stains together in different proportions rather than using two separate applications. It is finished with Polycrylic clear satin. The fabric is Wichelt 18 Count Lambswool Linen Fabric and is a dead ringer by my eye."

Those are original Walnut Oil right?

I never tried it in the Chorus II. The universal can't be used with the Chorus II. I sold the La Scalas along with the crossovers. Still have the Chorus II. My regret is that i sold both pairs of La Scalas when i should have kept 1 pair, but i love my Chorus II and hoping i can get some money saved up and get crossovers from DeanG.

Yes. It’s oak or ash that they apply the black lacquer onto. The La Scala was birch that was blacked out though. Not sure about the Cornwall and Heresy. After that it was oak and now ash. I’m pretty sure they didn’t start using ash until around the Time the original Rf-7 came out and al the black speakers are black ash now I believe including the Forte III, RF-7 III and La Scala II and KHorns. Could be wrong though. It’s popular to ebonize oak and ash because the grains pop beautifully in the light, but more natural, oak or ash tends to look out dated. The distressed oak Forte III looks good as weathered/distressed/graying oak seems to be a very popular thing to do these days. That could also be an option you can do with your black oak Forte II. Thanks, I too thought my CHII turned out beautifully even with the damaged veneer and ugly risers. That was just after applying 3-4 coats of Danish Oil and light wet sanding in between. Apparently it takes weeks for Danish Oil to cure before applying a poly or lacquer finish, so with my lack of patience, I just put the speaker together to enjoy using them and never got around to putting the top coat on. They started to get a bit dull and dry, but I was recommended to use Watco Rejuvenating Oil and I also had Feed-N-Wax Polish and conditioner from Howard that I could have buffed to a nice satin sheen but wax requires re-application every so often apparently. I’m new to all this stuff so I could be wrong as your name happens to be carpenter and you know all of this or better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not an exact match but this is what my Black Chorus IIs looked like after I sanded them down and applied Medium Walnut Danish Oil I think I got lucky as they’re both very straight grained for oak. Maybe they’re ash? Did Klipsch make that era of speakers in black ash like they do for the RF series? I have black oak Heresy IIs and those are very obviously oak with those big ugly grain patterns. My Chorus II are not even serial matching and both have very long straight grain patterns. Unfortunately I blacked them out after because for a time I was considering selling them and they had too much veneer damage that was too obvious with the Danish Oil. Now I learned how to cut out old damaged veneer and apply new and blend it in. The damage is all small enough that I can use an oak edgeband to repair the damaged parts and then maybe I’ll do the Walnut Danish Oil again but not sure. They do look killer when they’re big and black.

Exactly. Don’t they use oak for the Black cornwalls? Instead of staining them black, they can do the distressed oak stain and simply use the lambswool grills. Even if it’s ash and not oak, it’s close enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk