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geoff.

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Posts posted by geoff.

  1. Managed to do a bunch of apples to apples, apples to oranges, and apples to cherries comparisons.

     

    Using A/4500 crossovers:

     

    In case previous posts were skipped (that never happens) initial impressions of ZXPC 18x 10 horn on PRV driver were that it was hot, especially in the high end. This is with A/4500 crossovers so all of that should be cut off(?) Lots of energy at the HF cutoff. Lots of information coming out of a big horn. As is to be expected. Almost overwhelming at first...

     

    To see if it was just the PRV driver I swapped out a pair of K-55-Ms on the ZXPC 18 x 10s with adapters I had on the shelf. Still more HF energy than I was used to “stock”, but less detail than the PRV drivers. But, big horn, more sound. Definitely worth a try.

     

    Then I dusted off (literally) a pair of K-510s on Faital Pro HF200s. Not as much high end, still more than “stock”, but guess what? Smaller sound. I prefer the the bigger horn, apples to apples here. That’s when I was reminded the HF200 has a tapered throat to 2” JUST like the PRV driver, sigh.

     

    Using AA crossovers:

     

    I know, I need a bandpass. On the shelf was a pair of Crites 6000hz bandpass boards (pictured) left over from a go at titanium mids in Cornwalls and Chorus 2s years ago. 

     

    Tried the ZXPC/PRV and K-510/HF200 combinations again to pretty much the same results. Lots of energy still in the squawker at the high pass. I really thought the boards would kill it.

     

     

    Just for the heck of it I tried a pair of Cornwall 2 crossovers (600/6000hz) with the bandpass filters in the mix. A little less energy at the high frequency cutoff this time. But, only when it’s gone do you really appreciate the lower crossover to the bass bin. 

     

    I have heard it said many times on this forum that the lower you are able to cross the better it will sound. Yet it still goes contrary to what I want to believe about bass response. 

     

     

    The midrange, on anything I tried, gave the tweeters a run for there money. In the end I preferred the A/4500 combination. But a steeper slope on the squawker roll off, or adjustable midrange would no doubt nail it perfectly.

     

    This makes more sense in light of why so many have also dialed down the midrange in their AA crossovers even with stock drivers and horns.

     

    I can fully appreciate the efforts all of the forum members have gone through trying to dial in their DIY speakers. 

     

    I can also see why the L pad question is perennial.

     

    What I can’t see is why I haven’t bought K-402s and be done with it, lol.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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  2. 13 hours ago, Rolox said:

    Indeed! Is that a good thing, or a bad thing? 

     

    I don’t know. But don’t all 1” compression tweeters fall into this same category?

     

    Add to this, while I was mixing and matching horns and drivers for comparison I was also rudely reminded that my Faital Pro HF200 2” throat drivers are merely tapered HF140 1.4” drivers, lol. Although the Faitals do have an almost 3” diaphragm.

     

    Caveat emptor, eh?

  3. 8 hours ago, Rolox said:

    ...

    I've noticed that with my system:

    1) changing the midrange tap +& or -1dB has a very audible, almost dramatic effect

    2) positioning of the horn in height and depth, in relation to the bass horn, also changes things drastically 

    3) using the horn down to 400Hz, you might need to have it attached to a baffle - even if you're using a higher cutoff, you might want some kine of baffle or frame, to stop it from resonating (even plastic does IMO, although it does it differently)

     

     

    All of this!

     

    Especially #1. I have intently followed the posts of many contributors and their progress as they try to dial in the mids. ALK was way ahead of the curve with the ease of adjustment built in.

     

    Re-reading some older posts another member had a great suggestion to put a swamping resistor across the squawker for ease of adjustment until you find the right balance and THEN get the cap and tap values correct and remove it. 

     

    Would really like to get some definite feedback on the need for a baffle too. I always thought it was necessary, but it how much is needed. What effect does it have, one way or the other?

     

     

  4. So everything else arrived this week and I managed to get a makeshift trial going.  

     

    I have more than a couple projects going so none of this is permanent.

     

    It seems necessary to qualify everything lest one be taken out of context or not in the spirit of things. 

     

    At the risk of being mocked, or setting off any of the nose-in-the-air purists on a tirade, I am going to share my experience so far. Here’s hoping I don’t offend too many people’s sensibilities with my fun. Or as another  member recently called it in another post, fuckery. 

     

    Anyway...

     

    Substituting only the ZXPC 18 x 10” horn and PRV Audio D2200PH driver for the existing K-55-M mounted on an original Trachorn my immediate impression was that it was brighter.

     

    This may be because the PRV driver is a little more efficient, it has a throat area 4X larger than that of the one it is replacing, or the horn is shallower. Probably a combination of all three.

     

    After a few nights of listening to familiar tracks I can say without a doubt there is more detail in the music. Subtleties in guitar sounds I have never heard in decades of listening to the same CDs. Some vibrato on a Police track my son selected for instance. I asked him if he had ever heard it before and he hadn’t either.

     

    Dark Side Of The Moon is another go to for comparisons. EVERY speaker sounds different with this CD. And this time around was no exception. More of the same subtleties, the biggest being the clarity of vocals. If you have ever wondered exactly what was being said, a 2” throat will clear that up.

     

    This is not my first experience with a 2” driver. I have Faital Pro HF200s and EVDH1s that I have used on K-510s and a massive Renkus Heinz 22 x 9” horn. They are always game changers, and that is to be expected from bigger everything in the world of horns.

     

    Currently these are set up with an A/4500 crossover but I want to try them crossing at 6000 as well. I think the tweeter is getting too much information with this crossover and crossover point, in this set up. I will have to pull my AL-3s out of my LSI Splits and give them a run. My thinking is the 2db cut to the midrange will be noticeable and I get to hear the higher cross to the tweeter, either DE-120s on LMAHLs or DE-10s on STH 100s, probably both.

     

    Two other observations, after letting them break in for a couple days, they go extremely loud and stay clean, but oddly the dynamic range seems to have “flattened” a bit at relaxed levels. Lost a little bit of the live sound, more studio? Once again, could be the balance.

     

    Also, I have heard no distortion pushing the PRV driver down to the LaScala crossover point. If it is crossing where it is supposed to? I hear no holes in the sound. From where the horns are propped up temporarily I can physically hear the drums come up from the bass bins, bongos especially “pop” and have their own space. 

     

    No worries though if they don’t permanently reside on a folded horn bass bin, my “Klipsch Inspired Cornwall Imitations” will give them a good home. This thread nudged me into finally giving them a try. And I am not the least bit disappointed with their potential out of the gate. 

     

    Oh, I picked up the pair that includes the 1.5 - 2” adapters for a couple of bucks more, just to add to the list of unused parts lining my shelves. It was almost moot after the difference in shipping costs.

     

    ...just for the fun of it

     

     

     

     

     

     

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    • Like 1
  5. Dean, I think he tested it on an A crossover earlier in this thread, on my behalf, but mentioned it would need a 0.3 mH coil on the squawker to account for the extended bandwidth of this driver (up to 9kHz?).  

     

    Since I plan on using the A/4500s it was (hopefully) a plug and play.

     

    And yes, I did panic and forget about the effect the horn has on driver impedance. Air has resistance! 

     

    Also he did mention earlier that they are almost identical in impedance when on the horn at the crossover point.

     

    This is going to get real interesting soon enough. 

     

    Thanks again for your assistance.

    • Like 1
  6. Well, my drivers I ordered off of eBay on Saturday(!) arrived today. They were estimated to arrive next week at the earliest. The eBay “Global Shipping Program” is nothing short of impressive. Four days, across a border to my doorstep.

     

    Each driver even comes with it’s own crushed yellow electrolytic to cut it off at 600hz, it’s stamped right on the cap, which invariably gets stamped in transit.

     

    They even came with a cool PRV Audio sticker. I’m thinking I’ll put it on my Honda, beside the fake TURBO sticker, but under the fake K&N sticker, lol.

     

    Bonus points for including the bolts though! They were on a list of hardware to get for these, saves me a trip. I probably have some bigger washers kicking around.

     

    The only thing that troubles me no end at this point is both drivers read 5.9 ohms.

     

    That is a far cry from the 10-ish plus ohms of the K-55s they will be subbing for.

     

     

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  7. 5 hours ago, Travis In Austin said:

     

    If anyone want's their post locked to responses with a note to "PM me if interested" (and pinned at the top) they can let me know and I will be happy to do it.

     

    Travis 

     

     

    ^^^^THIS is a great idea.

     

    Somebody’s post count may suffer as a result, but the rest of won’t. LOL!

    • Haha 1
  8. I have to take 50 mg of Atenolol twenty minutes prior to engaging in ANY online process that is not part of my daily routine at work or at home.

     

    And I am rarely surprised by the (lack of) logic and efficiency of any of them.

     

    It is almost as if the same people that design the pages for the government agencies have been sought out and contracted.

     

    Insurance last year took the cake. They advised you online to set up a time for a phone callback, during business hours, while I was fortunate enough to be working.

     

    Now I have to go take another 25 mg just recalling this trauma, lol.

     

  9. 7DEEDF15-82EB-4829-AB7D-1B1611A65E58.thumb.jpeg.4d3243a9eb238d27d85d8dc5c259856f.jpeg

     

     

     

    @tigerwoodKhornsis bang on with his mod in my books, aka IMHO.

     

    This is one of the Chorus 2 crossovers I bought to play around with in some Cornwall cabinets. 

     

    Same idea, I put them on breadboards to keep them safe, yet convenient to work and play with with.

     

    For the sake of discussion, all of the fasteners are stainless steel or brass.

     

    To secure the printed circuit board but keep it from being tightened down flat to the wood and possibly buckling and cracking I put nylon washers (spacers) between circuit board and the breadboard.

     

    I did recap them too, but with cheap ones, and heard zero difference in the sound versus before and after.

     

    As suggested, go for the good caps, and leave the leads long so you don’t heat up the capacitors making connections.  

    • Like 1
  10. Pretty much, lol.

     

    Moved from the south east end of Lake Simcoe to the north west side. 
     

    Second thing I did was buy a snowblower.
     

    It's only about an hour drive from the old digs, but mother nature gives no quarter up here. 

     

    My youngest son was starting his first year of highschool up here so I found a house one street away from it. He lost his mind when I showed him the new place. 

     


     

     

  11. 21 minutes ago, Coytee said:

     

     

     

    K33-K43, wasn't the K33 the "driver of choice" when they were designed, but they were burning the drivers up (cranking it too loud) so they started populating them with the K43?

    Or am I confusing that change with bypassing the fuse and per Hunter, "using the $100 K?3 driver as a fuse to protect your $4 fuse element"

     

     

     

     

     

     

    From the book of Klipsch, the gospel of Claude, I too am of the belief that the MWM was originally engineered using the K-33.

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