Wirrunna

I think this - was posted in the lounge a while ago. On careful listening after the 3 minute mark Roy talks about steep slope networks, I think he says "M Derived filter, like a 3 pole with a trap in it" which is what ALK's ES networks are. Worth a watch and a request to those attending the pilgrimage, please report how the new K Horn sounds. Do they sound "thin" at low volumes which is how ALK's ES networks are described.

I would be in for a pair for my K-Horns providing they could be posted to Australia. I will also need 1" adapters so my A55G drivers could be utilised.

A quick Google for direct radiator brought up https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/direct-radiator/ which is relevant to this discussion. A direct radiator speaker is less efficient in converting electrical energy into sound energy than a horn loaded speaker. Klipsch Heritage speakers (Klipschorns, La Scala and Belle) are horn loaded and have extremely high efficiency, typically > 104 dB at one meter for 1 watt input. The British speakers from the 1960s, Goodmans, Celestion, Leak, Wharfdale, Tannoy etc. were direct radiator for the woofer (although some Goodmans and Tannoys had horn loaded tweeters) and were typically 16ohm 20watt maximum power with a sensitivity of 90dB to 94dB per watt at 1 meter. In other words, 1 watt into your new La Scalas will be at least 10dB louder than 1 watt into your Leak Sandwich speakers. As far as I can recall, the 16ohm speaker impedence allowed the valve amplifiers of the day to perform at lower distortion levels than 8ohm speakers.

This may also be of interest - http://libinst.com/Audio DiffMaker.htm

Rats, I've always aligned the caps so that you could read the text from one side, just seemed kind of neater.

Here is a link to the Fisher manual http://www.fisherconsoles.com/non console manuals/fisher 500c 30001 49999 sm.pdf that shows how the center speaker is wired. I would suggest a simple attenuator like https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-50w-stereo-1-shaft-8-ohm--260-260

https://archimago.blogspot.com/2019/01/internet-blind-test-do-digital-audio.html Archimago writes a good blog and occasionally posts in the Squeezebox forums. This is his most recent musing and I thought some of you may be interested.

Any progress to report ?

Alexander, this link - http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/coils.htm - gives a good idea about interaction of inductors and their placement.

MAHL = Machined Aluminum Horn Lens check out https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/175348-horn-adaptor-for-k-77-replacement/&page=4

Agreed, and I like ALK's comment - " The significance of the impedance matching really relates to the performance of more complex filters. A simple 6 dB / octive filter can operate into anyhting. It's all over the place anyhow! A more complex filter, even a 12 dB / octave, starts require a good terminaiton to act as it should. " This is from a post in the thread I linked to above. So, if the woofer crossover is a simple 6 db (a single inductor in series) then don't worry about the impedance variation

Well, you could add the Zobel directly across the speaker terminals with alligator clips and listen and measure to see if there was any difference. ALK ES designs take into account the woofer inductance - https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/32872-new-extreme-slope-crossover-requiring-no-zobel/

Alexander, you have found yet another variable in the interaction between speakers and passive crossovers that certainly raises concerns but may or may not be audible. Do the cross over networks have Zobel Impedance Equalization Circuits? I suspect that the Zobel is sometimes deliberately left out as the speaker sounds better without it or else it is just to save a few dollars.. Here is a link explaining Zobel networks - http://audiojudgement.com/impedance-equalization-circuit-zobel-network/ and here is an online calculator http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Speaker-Zobel/

wvu80, this list will be of interest http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html it is eurocentric as it does not include some of the cheaper brands such as Dayton, but his rating of the more esoteric caps seems to match some of the views expressed here - eg Jupiter beeswax - and being external it shouldn't start a slanging match.

On my AK-3s the Monster Cable to the speakers had gone a delightful green in places and the insulation had gone very sticky, so I replaced the cable. In another thread https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/179946-crossovers/ Deang has a picture of a cap meter measurement of one of the 2uf caps that has gone way off spec. I replaced the caps on my AK-3s with a Bob Crites replacement kit, and then went on to completely rebuild the crossovers - https://www.stereo.net.au/forums/topic/118361-k-horn-crossovers-from-ak-3-to-universal-to-es/ Another check is the squaker driver https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/130970-is-it-the-al-3-or-the-squakers/