mungkiman

Whamo, I have 1 K-22 and 1 K-22-E that I would be willing to part with. Send me an email or PM if you don't have luck getting yours repaired. I live in Portland, Oregon, so shipping would be a factor. You might find something closer off eBay, but let me know if I can help. Chris

I think they sold quickly. I called several times yesterday, and left a few messages. Chris

I am interested in purchasing a pair of connectors/adaptors for mounting 2 mid driver units (K55V) to a single horn lens (projector). I have included a picture of a connector made by University Loudspeakers, model 2YC. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris

We didn't know it had to be a President.

Here's a QUEER one!

William S Burroughs

Actually, it would just be irresponsible of me to say what we are planning if it doesn't happen for some reason. Then it's out there as a rumor, then people get disappointed, etc etc. Must be GOOD news if we could be disappointed that "IT" wouldn't happen!!!

Erik, now you need to try a better driver and really impress yourself. I have always thought Scalas to be a little directional anyways, but have benefitted tremendously from 511B's with my Khorns. The sweet spot is MUCH larger. Keep experimenting! Chris

Glazing tape would also work well. It comes in a variety of widths as well as thicknesses. Chris

Here is another picture that shows the back of both drivers. One of three silver pins is clearly seen on the red-labeled PD-4V. Hope this helps everybody distinguish the differences. Chris

It doesn't answer the question of whether an Atlas PD-4V ever came from the Klipsch factory in a Heresy or not, and enquiring minds want to know. I have included a picture of the face of both a PD5-VH (6 screws) and a PD-4V (3 pins) to help people observe the subtle differences between the two. Can anyone post a picture of a Klipsch labeled PD-4V from any heritage model? Thanks, Chris

Here is a photo of two PD5-VH drivers, one with the rear "dent cap", and one without.

The PD5-VH came with a rear cover. Removing this cover reduced the depth of the driver by over 2 inches without affecting anything else. Without this "dent cap" the PD5-VH IS the K-55-V, and is able to fit into cabinets such as the Cornwall. Chris

How about a CORNER Cornwall? I have been told that the internal reflections would wreak havoc with reflecting bass waves, but I think a K-500 would fit. It could have the same front panel as the Shorthorn, porting between the "legs" of the panel, greatly helping any WAF some of you have. The internal volume would remain the same. Chris

Can anyone provide a picture of the face of their 70's Heresy mid-drivers? The PD-4V and the PD5-VH look almost EXACTLY alike except for the differences that djk noted: 6 screws for the PD5-VH versus 3 drift-pins for the PD-4V. I am only trying to satisfy my own curiosity, and not take sides. I have examples here of the PD-4V, PD-5VH, and K-55-V, but that in itself doesn't prove anything. Thanks, Chris

I believe that the ATLAS PD-4V came, for a while, in Speakerlab Khorns. Chris

Perhaps "tooling" is the term we are looking for. I believe "tooling" would speak for everything needed to produce a new cornwall: molds, templates, jigs, billets, and the (programmed?) machines needed for the process. They would also need space in the factory. Chris

I have also purchased a few items from Chris, when he was selling out of his garage a few years back. I found him to be an honest seller, and very knowledgeable.

if it matters, i think you are looking for info on the K-600 horn lens. chris

Big rooms: Klipschorns Small rooms: Cornwalls Outside: La Scalas

Hey m00n, once you angle the speakers down towards the listening area, won't the ports be away from the wall as a result? I don't know the port location of your speakers, but inverting them might help to get as far away from the wall as possible. Chris

Another resounding YES!

Hi Kieth, There are a couple sites I know about with forums, that are also places to buy and sell. www.auctionarms.com www.gunbroker.com Hope this helps. Chris

c'mon m00n!

Use what I think is called a "drift pin" to push the brads all the way IN. It is like a nail set, but without a taper, and should allow you to get the brads out of the way before attempting any router work. Chris