Tom Mobley

Sky Hits, I might be willing to demo Khorns with vintage tubes or chip amp. Problem is my room while having corners is otherwise very poor. Does this guy have extensive listening experience?

JMON, I'd be willing to help you do some temp backs or false corners if you want. The 60th and the Jubes have pretty well made it clear this is a do-able deal. I still have a good table saw. I'm in the NW valley near Arrowhead, let me know if you're interested.

If you're not used to using a power sander be careful as pointed out here. I use the Norton 3X blue discs at 220 grit. I wouldn't use anything rougher than that until you get some time under the old belt. Keep the sander moving at all times and work in good light so you see what it's doing. BIGGEST TIP: stay off the corners and edges with any power sander until you get the hang of it. Nothing says amateur hour faster than unevenly rounded off edges and blunt corners.

You're keeping us all in suspense, what's the preliminary verdict?

coolness Tom. You've officially joined the "We don't need no steeken truck freight" club. Congratulations and many happy hours coming up. Let me know if you want to retire the mondo K-500-500 xovers, I'll build you something good if you'll buy the parts.

How far is that trip? I'm a westerner, distances are different out here.

Wow, gmc has BTDT. I live in the Phoenix area where it does get a little warn from time to time. I'm thinking FEDEX overnight and just lay off during the hottest part of the year.

Well thanks. I guess. But I already knew my last name. Any others?

Anybody have any bright ideas on this? What happens if a guy buys expensive vinyl off ebay in the summer, is there problems getting it shipped unwarped? Some kind of press type gizmo? Insulated packaging? Any bright ideas out there? Anybody have experience shipping vinyl in hot weather? What's the threshold temp for the warping to start?

take a zip-lock freezer bag to keep any wingnuts or anything else that comes off. you can screw them back on the studs, but I prefer having the stuff all in one place.

Quick look at the diagrams posted reveals a lot of fuses. I'd be having a look at those before doing much of anything else. There's probably one on the back externally accessible and several more on a board inside.

Erik, Good to see you. I haven't been on here much the last year or so, didn't even know you had taken a break. Sorry to hear about your dog, that can be real tough. it is kind of weird getting on here and seeing the old names and pics. Apparently ALK is back also.

If you have the right Klipsch or Klipsch-like components they will be OK. It won't get as loud as the 60 watt deal but probably sound better, especially at lower volumes. The ALK constant impedance Universal Type A would be a worthwhile upgrade also. If your cornscalas have other, less efficient components you're on your own.

if you're using SET the original ALK Universal Type A are what you want. The various Heritage have some pretty significant impedance swings through the various frequencies, SET amps are known to interact with impedance changes. This is why Al came up with his constant impedance design. See www.alkeng.com, on the left side scroll down to see the Klipsch section. You'll like what hear. BTW, Al's own speakers are Belles.

keep the internal volume about the same as a Cornwall. with a K401 and K55 it's going to be near 20" deep IIRC. keep the volume and length of the port the same as a Corn and you'll be good to go down into the 30s. Use Bob Crites cast frame K-33 replacement, it's good. The rest you've already got.

rolling paper and rubber cement. do inside and out or select somethiong a little more substantial than rolling paper and do it on the inside. Construction paper as used by children in art classes? use enough rubber cement to make sure you get a good seal all the way around.

free is free, anything else isn't.

first decent system I ever had: 1978, I bought new Heresey'sto go with my new Yammie CR-620. Still have both. Both still sound good.

as was mentioned earlier, this mod or whatever it is was originally aimed at filling in the soundstage when there seemed to ba hole in the middle due to the Khorns being too far apart, unfortunate room acoustics, listener position selection limited, like that. Works for me, my long wall is 24', I'm about 10'-11' away from it. On many tunes I perceive a lack of center presence, building a Belle and putting it in the middle fixed all that immediately. I don't know about a wider sweet spot, maybe somebody else can weigh in on that?

check this out: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/83867.aspx?PageIndex=1 on page 3 or 4 of that thread there are links to a couple build threads. Look like brothers almost.

interesting. going to the 6x13 opening should have lowered the impedance. did you compensate for that at all? Are you European? I can't decipher this phrase: "real horn section of two ducts" when you built these originally did you install the "butterfly wings" that make the first part of the horn? modified them for the 6x13" change?

Contrast this with what would have happened with stuff from WorstBuy, Fry's, CC, etc.

I've built several of these for people and for myself. I'm willing to do more if needed. One point, I don't like that metal enclosure deal. I use a plastic enclosure with gold plated RCA jacks, an ALPS center pot and hard wire the signal and ground side. One had pots on all three channels for adjustability in case the pre-amp was simple and didn't have balance control. One didn't have any pot at all, guy didn't want the parts in the signal path, didn't need it since he had gain controls on all three tube power amps. To each his own, live and let live, whatever turns the crank, all that.

Hey, I have an unused new M-Audio Audiophile 2496 I would let go cheap to a good home. PM me if interested.

Thanks Dave.