glens

Not Rich here, but vi any day of the week and twice on Sunday! Actually, I use it many times per day every day! (Mostly interact via command line in a terminal window.)

Oh, now you're bringing phase angle into the equation... I didn't anticipate that. You go! (CIVIL)

Yes. Certainly by design.

Yeah. After all these years, including some comprehensively testing industrial transformers (would fit inside a two-car garage but for the height), I recently was made aware of what they do to impedance, as seen. But as an excuse, I was never really a fan of Klipsch (Pro JBL!), and hadn't thus encountered autoformers in a loudspeaker... And my first pair of Klipsch (Forte III) doesn't have them anyway.

Re: coil vibration, round wire will behave acceptably so long as it's wound sufficiently tight and accurately, I'm sure.

Think about what you just stated... 2.83 minus 2 equals 0.83, minus another 2 ("2 volts each") equals -1.17! Pretty hard to get into a hole ;^)

Irritation in decibels?

The picture shows what, exactly? is the inductance changing that dramatically or what does that graph represent? If you haven't guessed yet I take people to task for wild claims. I've really been biting my lip hard so far...

All that info may be correct but I think it's confusing stated that way. Capacitors act as variable resistors based on frequency vs. capacitance value. You want a value that has the same impedance as the driver (or driver plus resistor/l-pad, or transformer/driver) at the frequency you want the crossover to occur. They will share the load equally there. That means half the voltage each. There'd be nothing wrong with having the l-pad before the cap in terms of crossover function except that the l-pad would be wasting energy over the entire audio spectrum instead of only that in the range of the driver.

I gave about 120 each at an expo at the Dane County Coliseum in Madison, WI. which was a week's pay each at the time. And I was doing a bit better than "minimum wage"...

Get you some "snap", and "pop", and some marshmallow to go with them! Makes a sticky mess in the pan, but momma'l clean that up!

I never would've bought the 4301s if I could've afforded the 4311s!

Good luck on the 4301s. I've got a pair in their factory boxes but the woofer surrounds (and now likely tweeter "surrounds") have long since disintegrated. I reckon they're actually 4301bs. Should've gotten the woofers repaired while JBL still did that for that driver... They're 8" / 1.4" in a lovely walnut seemingly indestructible cabinet. Countless hours of enjoyment derived from them, but am currently equally-or-better (better!) enjoying a pair of Forte III. Driven by 50 Watts per channel of NAD class D amplification in a large difficult room. Fills the whole house with sound when called upon to do so...

So long as you can't audition them first, do what I did (though I could have given a listen first at the expense of an hour's drive each way...) and have Cory (Metropolislakeoutfitters or nearly that) ship you out a pair of the Forte III!

I forgot the "why" though it's implicint. They consume nominally the floor space of the Heresy, they have to have better midrange and bass, and I bought a "b-stock" pair from Cory without prior audition (still can't figure why they'd be "B"), and would do so again if necessary in roughly half a heartbeat as the result of a fire or flood... I have them in a large difficult room and can envision nothing filling the bill so well for the money. Cornwalls would be too physically imposing, though Chorus may work. But they're unlikely to be available in most cases.

Don't know, but surmise that's got to be a true statement. Haven't heard Heresys since round about 1980. I'd imagine the Forte III squawks a might better, too...

Forte III and Heresy III are all but the same footprint.

I've got the Forte III and can very highly recommend that option.

Admit it. The gal that lives behind that other glass is a looker!

I rocked out with JBL 4301s using 40 wpc stuff for years. It'll be just fine.

On the surface of the enamel insulation affixed to the conductor. Only on the surface at frequencies much higher than direct audio. If you have altered in any way the way current flows in that single wire wound into a coil I can practically guaranty you've altered the value of the inductor. In each case. I'll let you continue with your further wire / house-wiring-as-networking developments unhindered...

Likeliest it was the mouse debris. I've got a bristle brush attachment from an old Electrolux vacuum I use on my shop vac for just such an occasion. I don't think I'd use straight vinegar. 50/50 with distilled water at the strongest level. If any liquid...

First things first. Push them back into corners after swapping to them the leads from the speakers sitting on them and see what you think.

That's what I thought you'd said. The coils could be painted or have anything non-magnetic smeared all over them and function the same. You are aware of this?

While the cables look really nice, and I'm sure they also conduct electricity at least as well as needed, I'm still stuck on the use of the contact product on the drivers and crossover. How so and why? And what was the result, specifically?