grendel23

The RF-7 III and RC-64 III are veneeered in real wood. Mine were cherry.

I ordered stainless threaded rod and cut them from that. I don't remember the length. I found the length like MMURG suggested.

Mounting thread is M6. I made studs as that made mounting the drivers to K-302 horns much easier.

These are standard blade type quick disconnect terminals. Any hardware store will carry them along with the crimping tool to apply them.

Technician class, but will work on getting my general soon. WB9PPK

When I bought RF7-IIIs and a RC64-III I at first thought they were somewhat harsh. I played pink noise through the mains while I was at work for several days and tried them again and they were smoother. To check if the speakers were changing or my ears were becoming used to the sound, I compared the mains with the center channel. After perhaps 100 hours the RF7-IIIs were noticeably more mellow than the RC64-III. I then ran the center on pink noise for several days and then the center and the mains sounded the same. I suspect the woofers were becoming more efficient once the suspension loosened up. If I didn't have a reference to compare, I would have doubted whether the change was real, but after hearing a comparison in real time, I was convinced.

Before I bought AXI2050s I was running 3 way using DE10s with LMAHLs for high frequencies. These sounded very good. Once I put the Celestion drivers on my K-402s, I went to two way. The AXI2050s sounded better to me.

How about https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Advanced-Sensors/CL-110?qs=9CcYk2SfNa5ANw0SBxNhyw%3D%3D?

I am running a 25wpc Pass design class A amp on K-402s with Axi2050 drivers. For horn loaded speakers I find that to be enough. The original ask was for direct radiator bass. On those speakers I have found I prefer amps with deep current reserves. Especially where the impedance dips well below 4 ohms.

I owned RF-7IIIs. I had them on an amp that would deliver 600wpc at 8 ohms. They didn't audibly distort even when the clip lights were blinking. My ears couldn't take more than a few seconds of that and the speakers wouldn't survive long either, but it was very impressive. If you listen to music without much bass at normal volume, these would be happy with 50wpc, but why get these speakers unless you can feed them properly? I would invest in a good 200wpc amp.

These appear to be using Kozmo stepped attenuators. I have used these in a couple of headphone amps and have been happy with them.

Free shipping from Kazakhstan! https://www.ebay.com/itm/175541572944?hash=item28df17d550:g:aXIAAOSwLIRjPGK0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoGdiQqFnx5p98LHHrNw7e4ODd5EOAcZN9O9x2qDtPef3KGksRSg6n87eafRxEzDmrxHsrYUzY6ztgTXZ3F5Q7P2WjgGsjgnpBDoX9YRt2Eq8yGRVcM2acga9nvTNjOgSnex61kyGIutn3rBmp0%2BB3ZOncW2RJ8F7Z%2BEAcEMablRgxmNk65%2FfPsoz6cN8uUgi9DhTDS8cKvb1ovB%2BvPp9NZs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9a_hdu8YQ

I assume by "phoenix connector" you mean XLR. These work fine on my XP-4080. Not all balanced gear will be happy with this, but the Xilicas are fine. https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/na2fpmf Jay

I had the same issue and just made new mounting plates.

When I had RF7IIIs, I was running a QSC PLX 1804, 600 WPC into 8 ohms. I could play Daft Punk and use all of the available power, (clip lights blinking). The speakers just kept getting louder, no breakup or noticeable distortion. I don't know if they would have held up long at this level, but it was impressive to start "Human After All" for guests at bowel loosening volume. I agree that 100 WPC is more than enough for normal listening, but once in a while...