henry4841

I believe Dean will agree, the deep orange caps look like that new, epoxy coated. They will crack if ever swelling occurs which should never happen unless something goes terribly wrong upstream with the amplifier. Dean may say replace them with authorized Klipsch replacements but appearance wise they look fine.

Welcome to the forum. You will not go wrong with Klipsch speakers.

It is not the ESR that is the problem using electrolytics in the signal path. As you have found the ESR is very close to the same in both. It is the dielectric absorption of the electrolytic that does not make it a good choice in the signal path. From memory an electrolytic dielectric absorption rate can be as much as 20% whereas a polyester cap is around 1% with an polypropylene even better. The engineers at Klipsch have determined a polyester is plenty good enough. Dielectric absorption is when you apply a voltage to a capacitor then short it out and the voltage is subject to come back 20% from the original amount in an electrolytic. In other words you will have a yoyo in the signal if you use an electrolytic in the signal path. That and an electrolytic will always have some leakage. There is a discussion on a technical forum right now with some claiming they can hear differences in resistors in a circuit. I cannot say they do not but like different film caps I am skeptical most can tell any difference. The circuit design in a electronic product is far more important as long as reputable parts are used whether resistors, caps or inductors. I am not one to say what one hears or not hears not having their ears but I am skeptical unless it can be proven on the bench with testing. Just trust the sound engineers know what they are doing. Klipsch still maintains good quality control from all that I see on the net. Another way to put it is the engineers at Klipsch seem to be able to still keep the bean counters in check and have the last word. Those with some electronic knowledge may want to play with different parts but the majority on this forum should just trust Klipsch and get authorized parts from them. You can be fooled into believing what you are hearing is better very easily when changing parts. Especially when large amounts of money is involved. Klipsch for caps and Dean for crossover work and you will not go wrong.

Try some new caps if curious but be sure to save your old ones just in case.

An electrolytic should not be used in the signal path but is acceptable as a filter trap, notch filter, when a high value is required. A film cap would be a better alternative but doubtful most could tell a difference. You can find non-polar electrolytics in cheaper speakers but I hope never to see them in the signal path of a Klipsch speaker. There are technical reasons for saying this.

I do not use tone controls and have not in years but many do. If you have everything dialed in correctly no manipulating of the sound is required either with tone controls or capacitors that intentionally roll of the highs. A properly designed capacitor should have a data sheet proving it meets its intended value. Nothing more or less. If it meets it specification and the value selected is true it should not manipulate the sound beyond what it is supposed to. Show me a data sheet or I will pass on any capacitor.

Hard to go wrong when you use what the manufacturer recommends for sure. My thoughts, not proven myself being no way would I ever spend enormous amounts of money for something as simple as a capacitor, is that those expensive boutique caps often praised on this forum in the past rolled off the highs.. Maynard, tubefanatic, in his tube amplifier builds puts a circuit that rolls of the highs and calls it an ear bleed circuit. He likes it that way and so may others as well. A properly made capacitor should not do this and anyone that favors rolled of highs should consider doing so electronically and adjustable, tone controls and not at the speaker using a capacitor in the crossover.

Parts Express?

I do not see why not but it is not something I have ever seen in any electronic gear. Sometimes seen in tube PS sections being that it increases the voltage rating eliminating the need for a higher voltage rated capacitor, higher cost.

Why so large a value. I use 1 amp quick blow. If memory is correct Klipsch once selected 1 1/4 amp quick blow for a LaScala. 001 is correct in that fuses should not be required and could possible degrade the sound ever so slightly, indistinguishable for most though including me. I do it because I build lots of audio gear and who knows, I do make mistakes and do not want to be buying drivers or speakers. Accidently pulling input cables while amp running will give you a nasty sound that is subject to blow my 1 amp fast blow on occasion. Probably not hurt anything but a fuse assures it does not especially that delicate tweeter.

Do not be afraid to use 2 or more capacitors to make the value you need. All capacitors are is 2 plates separated by something, could be air. When adding another capacitor in parallel you have you increase the plate size on the first capacitor.

I agree, different view point is always a good thing.

At the time of the A's tweeter protection was not needed being that electronic music had not become the norm. Any sensible user would hurt their hearing before hurting the tweeter. There is a large group of designers, geeks of audio gear that consider less is better when it comes to parts. I am in that camp. Whether I could tell if an A or AA sounds better is doubtful at 73 years of age but I would favor the A crossover as sounding better with someone with trained ears. Just as many on this forum claim better sound by emitting the zener's they should also hear a difference between an A and a AA with a few less parts. The only reason the AA came into being is to protect those delicate tweeters and not because of sounding better. I am almost positive of that. The problem came with LaScala's being used as professional gear in club settings with electronic music. The A is a 1st order network on the tweeter whereas the AA is a 3rd order cutting off the mid frequency, which is the killer of the tweeter, quicker with it's sharper cutoff point at 6Khz. Perhaps someone with good hearing and soldering skills can play with their AA's making them A's, easy to do, and doing some listening test of their own and posting their thoughts much as with the diodes. Probably so close it really does not matter but at least it would give us some to talk about since crossovers are a main topic on a speaker forum.

Oh, OK. Being dark I thought it was some kind of insulation.

What is that you have covered the connection with? Curious. Gob of heat shrink?

He records do suck sonically but his live performance in his prime was one of he best I have ever seen.

No difference electronically between radial vs axial other than adding wire to leads to make connections. Not as pretty when finished but the crossover could care less. Radials are just made for board installations but no reason they cannot take the place of a axial.

PM sent.

Be glad to help anyone that needs some help finding something at Mouser or Digikey if you just reach out to me. Took one course on just how to navigate their websites in one of my online electronic courses years ago.

I had a very dear old friend 25 to 30 years ago that worked on Harleys for city and dealer. Even was on the Harley racing team years ago. Harley actually sent him a new leather jacket when he was in his 70's. He admitted they broke down a lot but that is the way you meet people. Claimed he had broke down in every state in the USA.

My best friend was manager at Harley dealer that sold Suzuki's as well. Claimed he'd sell a Suzuki and rarely ever see them again. Sell a Harley and they usually were back in the store the next weekend buying something else.

Walnut is a more desirable wood. Antique pieces in walnut bring bigger prices. Personally I like both equally though.

Same here, crimp and then solder.

The thing is though if what was used did the job adequately why spend more? JBL like Klipsch was, is, a reputable speaker manufacturer and they had, have, a loyal following for a reason. The engineers know what they are doing when designing, selecting parts for their speakers. Engineers do not select parts by a name but by statistics in the data sheets. If they do the job requested of them I see no reason to spend more money. As stated previously technicians repairing audio gear use a film cap from a reliable source they have in stock when they have a need to replace one. Which is very, very rare for a film cap even 50 years old. Electrolytics are the one that deteriorate with time. Most should just stick with what works best for Klipsch speakers. Authorized parts and be satisfied you are hearing excellent sound with parts picked by an engineer and not some Joe Blow on the internet.

Well said.