Dustin B

Dial position on a sub plate amp means nothing. It's a gain dial, not an absolute volume control. Having the dial at the mid point on one source could mean the amp is barely working, but on another source the amp could be clipping. The purpose of the dial you speak of on a subwoofer is to adjust for the variance in the strengths of different sources. Get an SPL meter and some test tones. Level match your speakers. Whatever the gain dial on your sub ends up at is the correct position. With one receiver or preamp that could be the 3/4 mark, on another it could be the 1/4 mark. But in either case the output level, if you calibrated with test tones and a sound meter, will be the same.

A single one I wouldn't bother with (as Frankie noted). But a pair should outgun an FSR18 without much difficulty. I also think it's using a 320W amp instead of a 250W amp. Adire can be slow to update there site as the bulk of their business is designing and suppling OEM parts to other speaker manufactures. If you drop them an email or give them a call they will answer all the questions you have on the Daeva.

A straight 6" port will work fine with a Tempest. You need to step up to AV15 displacement before the flare is required.

The Tempest is a really simple forumla. One Tempest, one ~250W at 4ohms amp, one 6" schedule 40 PVC pipe of ~24" (actual length will depend on tune choosen and size of enclosure), enclosure of 240-320L and tune to 16-20hz. Really you can pick any size and tune in that range and you will be very happy with the end result. The sub Mike is describing was a design from Mr. Wiggins himself. 480L enclosure (roughly a 72" tall 24" diameter enclosure) tuned to 18hz with a 6" port in each endcap and a Tempest in each endcap. Stuff with 8lbs of polyfil and goose each driver with ~250W and you'll have a sub that would shame just about every commercial sub out there. Especially after you compare the price tags.

Curious why you'd want to tune a Tumult to 28hz? Which is what the tuning point will be for a pair of 1600g PRs and a 3ft^3 enclosure. If you go to a pair of dual spyder PRs weighted to 3000g then you can tune to 20hz in a 3ft^3 enclosure. To tune to 18hz will require at least a 110L enclosure with the dual spyder 18" PRs weighted to 3000g. I'm pretty sure the 1600 gram PRs on Stryke's site are single spyder and can't take 3000g (why they are cheaper) nor should they be used with the punishment a Tumult can dish out. The 2500g PRs are dual spyder and can take 3000g, although my preference would be to go up to a 5ft^3 enclosure to keep the weight on the PRs down below 2500g.

Drivers Sd isn't just the area of the circle made by the driver. There are some funky formulas that take into account the shape of the cone and the surround. An 8" driver designed for use as a mid from Adire has an Sd of 231cm^2 and P-P Xmax of 11.2mm (rather long for a driver of this type). So a driver meant for bass duty will have a larger surround resulting in a smaller Sd, and given the price point I'd really be surpised if the Xmax was more than 16mm. No way to guesstimate Xmax just from measuring the driver. If you could take it appart and see how long the voice coil and pole pieces are then you could know the mechanical travel limits, but depending on the driver design Xmax can be very close to this or much less. You can get most of the T/S parameters of the driver if you have a voltmeter and some know how, but Xmax requires some specialized measuring equipment to get an accurate number. I'll stick by saying my best guess is upper bound for possible total Vd of the Promedia Ultra sub would be 0.75L.

I'd be utterly amazed if Klipsch told anyone who asked what any of the T/S parameters of the drivers in the Promedia speaker series (or any of their series for that matter) are. Frankie's estimate of 220cm^2 for the 8" driver's SD is very reasonable. Estimates at Xmax will be complete shots in the dark. But I'd guess the P-P Xmax of a driver in a promedia sub at absolute most to be 20mm. More than likely less than 16mm. So the original 6" version would have had a Vd around 0.25L and the new ultra one to be in the 0.5 - 0.75 L range. With enclosures as small as the Promedia sub enclosures, and slot ports I'd guesstimate the tuning point to be in the high 30hz low 40hz range. So as far as multimedia computers speakers go, quite impressive. As far as home audio / home theater goes, well do I really have to say it

What the Lexicon will do for room problems is signficantly more than what that SOS will do. If you really want to get into room correction though, check these guys out. http://www.tactaudio.com/

Major rip off. $300 for a single parametric EQ band that some cheesy electronics/software will determine the best setting for. Instead spend $120 on this: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/srs7/search/detail/base_pid/182467/sourceid=00314479636732461224 And another $30-$50 on a Radio Shack SPL meter. Then burn some 12th/octave test tones (this way is time consumes, but effective) or install a demo copy of some ETF software on a computer. Plot your room and set up to 24 parametric EQ bands to tame any room induced peaks (in reality you'll likely only need 3-6). I personally needed 5 bands to get a good response out of my sub. This link should also get you past any hurtles in the setup process. http://www.snapbug.ws/bfd.htm PS- you can't correct nulls with EQ, but you can tame peaks. It's amazing what getting ride of the major room induced response peaks can do for how your sub sounds.

I think that's a little overly optimistic frankie. Keep in mind the Adire Sadhara driver has an Xmax of 27mm and with the surround required to achieve that excursion an SD of 436cm^2. This gives a Vd of 2.35L. The Sadhara better compares to the Ultra (TV12 driver) than the Plus series (DB12 driver). So the DB12 will be much closer to 2L than 3L, and 2-2.1L would be my guess. The Ultra is likely right around the 2.4L range. Another reason why I love my Tempest. 2.55L Vd for the exorbitant price of $210CDN shipped. Amp and enclosure not included of course

I'm tired and bored, I'll do the math. 360"^3 or 5.9L is a load of crap. That's them using the mechanical travel limits of the driver and the PR, adding them together and using that to come up with an almost meaningless number. Funny thing about a bass reflex system is you'll never get both travelling to max mechanical excursion at the same time with any usefull output. And at max mechanical excursion the distortion numbers would be horrid. So lets take the stroke number of Sunfire's website, 2.35". Rounding up that's 60mm Xmech (peak-peak). I'll be generous and say the Sd is 340cm^2. That results in a Vd of 2.04L. Now the Xmax (the meaningful excursion) I'll guesstimate to be a generous 54mm. That gives us a Vd of 1.83L. I'd bet the actual Sd and Xmax are even a bit lower bring the Vd of that 10" driver to ~1.75L. The DB12 driver is quite similar to the Stryke AV12. The AV12 has a Sd of 498cm^2 and an Xmax of 23mm (this is one way, so p-p is 46mm; also the Xmech on this driver is the same as the Sunfire, 60mm). So lets say the DB12 isn't even that capable. 490cm^2 and 20mm Xmax. That gives a Vd of 1.96L. Then the PB2+ has 2 drivers. So that takes the Vd of the PB2+ to 3.92L. In reality I really wouldn't be surprised if the actual number was a little over 4L. So the PB2+ is capable of moving almost 130% more air than the Sunfire Signature. Of other note, the driver used in SVS's lowest line of subs is capable of ~1.5L of VD. So the PB1 is less than 20% off the Vd of a Sunfire Signature and the PB2 will have over 80% more Vd than the Sig. There really is no replacement for displacement. The PB2+ would easily outgun a Sunfire Sig at any frequency.

Depends on the system and the room. Without that information no way to know if it would be capable of grossly over powering your system/room (which isn't really a problem, as you can always turn them down) or not enough. If your ears hurt after that session I'd strongly recommend you never do that again. If you enjoy good hearing that is. If your ears are ringing afterwards you know you've permenantly damaged your hearing a little bit. And no way to know how many times of ringing it will take before the end result is something much worse than a small lose in hearing acuity. One example would be tinnitus (or hearing a ~3000hz 50dB sound 24/7 that isn't there for the rest of your life). The other clear sign of causing permenant damage to your ears is a hearing shift. This isn't getting used to a louder sound (like the difference between the volume you'll have a TV for news in the morning and at 5 after getting home from work), but a noticable shift if the volumes required to hear things clearly.

B4 Ultra is really unlikely. They are already at the limits of their researches size and weight acceptability from a consumer and a shipping stand point. As such putting Ultra drivers in the B4 would take the weight up well over 200lbs and beyond this limit. Also the B4 is already underported. In otherwords port compression will set in before you reach the limits of what the four plus drivers can do. Which is also more than the majority of rooms will ever need so to Tom it was a mute point. My guess is we'll see them round out their box lineup. Then we will either see a 15" driver and/or smaller PR enclosures. And by smaller I mean relative to the current stuff, they won't try and go down to Sunfire size as they too will end up with Sunfire performance.

You won't find this stuff at any retail store. Look up concrete contractors in your yellow pages. They should be able to get you some. You can't quite slap the endcaps in. You may have to remake them as you really shouldn't have cut them until you got the sonotube and got an accurate diameter measurement using a circumference measurement. Sonotube varies from brand to brand on it's actual inner diameter. Often it's a little over the specified size and they just rounded. The endcaps need to fit snug as it is critical that the sub be air tight (with the exception of the port hole). If you haven't yet, I strongly recommend carefully going over Patrick Sun's webpage I linked above. Read it carefully, follow his lead and your project will turn out great. Moving to fast, before you understand better what you are doing and why, is a recipe for being unhappy with the end result. Thanks Manuel. The screen was a really quite easy to build. I still have some paint test left to do before I decide if I want to paint it or not. And I also need to build some adjustible masking to frame the screen in properly (I'm using a HTPC so I can do a constant area between the various aspect ratios). Just watched Saving Private Ryan again tonight. Was stunning on the PT-L300U

http://www.io.com/~patman/sunosub2.html Way more detail than you should need to figure out how to build one.

Have you tried this link? http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Adire.zip

Ah, now you get the answer to what use you have for algebra Go download LspCAD from Adire's site. Punch in the stats I mentioned above to determine how long to make the 6" ports (schedule 40 PVC will work great for this). Then decide what diameter of sonotube you want to use and use the volume of a cylinder forumla and some algebra to figure out how tall to make it. Don't forget the 480L is net volume. You have to add 3.5L per Tempest and the volume the ports would take up if they were solid cylinders to this to get your gross volume which is what you should be figuring the sonotube for. Oh and when figuring the tuning, count on about a 10-15% appearant volume increase from the 64oz of polyfill.

Sorry Ears, "Mr. DIY" has been busy with work and his own little DIY project. Just wasn't sub related. http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/pics/scale.jpg http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/screen.php Anyways, what has been said so far has been more or less spot on for budget and performance goals. If you can spare the space my first choice would also be the dual Tempest, but I'd do the single enclosure like Mike Strassburg did. 480L sonotube with a Tempest and 6" straight port (cut to tune to 18hz) on each endcap stuffed with 64oz of polyfil. Second choice would be the AV15 in a 150-200L enclosure with a single flared 6" port. Unless you want to drop the cash for a pair of PRs. I'll leave finding the right amount of power for a fair price to you. But you'll want 250-300W per Tempest or 350-450W for the AV15.

I believe DanW has stated that even though the sag number on the DPL12 is a little high, it still can be used as a downfiring driver. You should double check that with Adire though. So if the DPL12 can be used down firing, then it comes down to cost I guess. If buying a Shiva now or later isn't a concern money wise I'd go with getting 3 subs

He's planning a DIY with the driver and PR used in the EarthQuake subs. Those parts can be purchased seperately. But IMO, there are better compenents available for DIY than what EarthQuake has to offer.

PB2+ will do both just fine and will trounce any of the subs you've mentioned above. You could also consider some of the dual cyliner model setups SVS offers in your price bracket. Oh, and of course DIY if you have some basic wood working skills. You could build the equivalent of an SVS PB2+ for well under $1000.

I'd look at the Stryke AV15 with a pair of either Styrkes 18" PRs (a little over kill for an AV15) or of Adire's 15" PRs. Not a big fan of the Magma drivers or the SLAPs PRs.

Don't worry about the watt numbers, they don't matter that much. Commercial, that price bracket, the SVS PB2+ would be my choice without hesitation.

There won't be a difference between the tube and box if they both have the same driver, same port, same tune, same net internal volume and same amp.

The DPL12 was specifically designed for use in a dipole sub. Although it can work well in other allignments. But you'll get just as much performance from a Shiva and save $25. The question I think you should be asking your self is, the Tempest is only $25 more and it will be a big step up in performance, can I handle the larger enclosure required. If you can handle the larger enclosure (I wouldn't go smaller than 210L with a Tempest), I'd seriously consider going with it over the Shiva.