tigerwoodKhorns

I am a dual geek. I went for my ME (because I was alwyas fabricating and designing) but had to switch to CE because in Las Vegas there is a lot of CE work and the pay is equal or better. I worked as an accident reconstructionist for a while and then went to law school becasue I realized that law was not that difficult. I am now studying for the patent bar (you basically need an engineering degree to get into patent practice). I can tell you that engineering school was harder than law school, and I was ranked higher in engineering school than I was in law. Anyway, that makes me a dual geek, Chris

OK, That's one of the nicest looking amps I have ever seen. What does it take to get one, do I need to buy a chassis on Audiogon? Chris

---------------- On 1/20/2005 11:35:30 PM jvencius wrote: FWIW, my budget for this system is ~$4,500. ---------------- $4500 Jolida JD 100 or Ah! Njoe Tube CD player ~$900 (less if used) Used K-Horns - ~2,000 ALK's - ~$525 shipped AMP - $800 for the Scott on NOS valves site. System that you will never have to replace - Priceless. I have a Denon 5800 receiver (about $4,000 new) that I really like for HT use. However, my NOS Valves Scott LK-48 sounds much better ($450). Before you spend the money, chech around here. You will get many suggestions,and conflicting opinions, but, take your time and you will find what suits you best. Or just buy the system that I outlined above!!! Chris

---------------- On 1/20/2005 3:10:45 PM RichardP wrote: Because I spend most of my forum time here and not at AVS, I apparently value sound quality over video quality, so maybe the audio attributes are more important to me, if that helps anyone's recommendations. ---------------- Per Chris Robinson's reccomendation, I just bought a Philips DVD 963 SA. I got it on Audiogon from a local who barely used it. Paid $225 and it sounds great. I am going to channge the capacitor to a blackgate $29 and be in cheap sonic heavin. I hear the video on thsi unit is good too. For the price, you cannot go wrong. Do a search in the two channel forum on this unit. Chris

Slightly off topic, but nice house!! I am relly into home improvement and the crown molding and 7" baseboards look fantastic (as well as the audio stuff). Very taseful!! Chris

---------------- On 1/19/2005 8:30:20 PM Al Klappenberger wrote: Craig, You asked for it! Here's plots of the A, AA, AK-3, my universal type A, and my AS-Khonr extreme-slope networks. Be very carefull to look at the scale factors. They are not all the same from one plot to the other. That information is to the right in the same color as the plot. Look for db / division and Ohms / division. The "Ref.", or reference line, is the very top line of the plot. I did the AL also but forgot to past it in. It's just more of the same though. AL K. ---------------- AL, The attaches file comes up very small, can't read it. Chris

Real quick inductor question. If I have teh space, the two litz wire conductors can be mounted flat (like the 2.4 solid) right? I am assuming that you mount them on their side for space reasons and not to cool them or anything like that. Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/18/2005 9:29:36 PM DeanG wrote: Here, build this for your Belles. Come back and tell us what you think. ---------------- Dean, If you are serious about this, I cannot build it. My Belles have type AB's with a K-55-M squaker. Chris

---------------- On 1/18/2005 7:21:34 PM Al Klappenberger wrote: Chris, As to the transformer, you best stick with the Texas source. What do you mean by build a type A? My type A or the Klipsch type A? I think I asked for this confusion by calling it the "Universal type A replacment"! Al K ---------------- AL, I am using your design in my 2 channel setup with K-horns. I also want to put new crossovers in my Belles that are part of my Home Theater system. I thought that a Klipsch Type A using Auricaps and Hovlands woudld be really cheap to build for that setup, if it sounds good. However, I read that the Type A network is designed for Paper in Oil and does not like the reduced resistence of the Hovlands and Auricaps. If I have to go Paper in Oil, then the ALK's look like the way to go as the price will be about the same and I wil get the adjustable squaker and constant impedence benefits. Speaking of the transformer, I am planning on buying new ones for the K-horns. How do I test the ones in my Belles and Heresys? If they are good, I can avoid having to buy 6 additional transformers. Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/18/2005 4:54:18 PM NOSValves wrote: Al, Man I haven't seen you post this much in a long time ! Good to see you posting. Craig ---------------- And the value of the information is outstanding!! Al, I am going to fabricate the small parts at a friend's shop. Strictly eyewash but I am extremely anal retentive (can I still say that here?). I want to buy everything from Parts Connexion. What transformer will I need or should I stay with the parts from Texas? Craig, Please see my post in 2 channel entitled "Dean G / Bob Crites; Type A question for my HT Setup" I want to build Type A's for my HT system using Hovlands and Auricaps. I see that you had a set of these and wanted some info. Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/18/2005 3:34:24 PM Al Klappenberger wrote: Chris, Interesting post! Al K. ---------------- Al, I am a man of few words (if any!!). For some reason the rich text does not post from my computer. After pulling ip a periodic table, I have decided to use copper plates to fabricate the connectors instead of brass. As far as heat goes, is it a concertn at all (specifically, can the crossovers be enclosed in a case)? Thanks, Chris

Guys, First, thanks for all of the help lately. I dusted off one of my old EE books and jumped in to this thing, it is nice to have the support (dare I say support group for our addiction?). I am going to order the parts to build ALK's for my 2 channel setup and want to order parts for my HT at the same time. I have two Belles as mains (they sound bad, not much upper end, out of balance, no imaging, etc - the drivers are all working so I think it is the x-overs; Type AB) I also have four heresys as follows: Older version: K77 Tweeter K55v Mid K22 Woofer Type E Crossover Newer Version: K77 Tweeter (Plastic) K53 Mid (Plastic) K22 Woofer (uh, not plastic) Type E-2 Crossover) This is all driven by a Denon 5800 receiver. I want to build Type A's for the Belles and freshen up the Heresys. The older Heresys sound much better than the newer ones (probably due to the caps). Belles / Type A's. I was reading an old thread where you used Hovland / Auricaps to build Type A's. This woudld be inexpensive ($100) but is it the way to go? Are the paper in oil a better sound and better suited for the design because they introduce some resistance? Same question for the Type B's. Should I go with all Auricap / Hovlands? Should I replace the indiuctors in all of the above with new Solens? If so, what thickness? I don't think that Solen offers a 2.5 mHy. Is a 2.4 acceptable (probably not since the mathematical relationship is exponential) Finally, should I replace the T2's with new. How do I know if they are still up to spec? Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/18/2005 9:05:46 AM Al Klappenberger wrote: Now compare the actual loss within each part. The biggest loss is through the .2 mHy inductor. It is wasting 8 mW (Milliwatt). This is to be expected. Inductors are ALWAYS the weakest link. upgrading the 39+1 combination to two 20 uF caps of higher quality may be worth doing. Al K. ---------------- AL, I am going to try the two Auricap 20's in place of the 39 + 1. I will use a 6.8 Auricap in the other spot. Shoudld I use a bypass (maybe a 0.1 mHy)? A quick inductor question: The Solen solid 2.4 mHy inductor is $19.14. The Solen Litz 2.4 mHy inductor is $23.87. Is it worth trying the Litz? Does the litz have to be mounted on its side to cool? (I am moiunting teh crossovers outside of the speaker so this will not be a problem). I will also be custom fabricating the junctions out of brass. My other choices are stainless or aluminum. If necessary, I can get copper but it will be difficult. What is your reccomendation. Thanks, Chris

Thought that I would bump this one up top to try to get an answer. ---------------- On 1/17/2005 5:42:53 PM tigerwoodKhorns wrote: ---------------- On 1/17/2005 4:44:33 PM DeanG wrote: What year are your Heresy's? ---------------- I have two sets for HT surrounds. When I first bought them, I waqs really surpised that "for some unknown reason" the older ratty pair sounded way better that the newer ones. The parts should explain why: Older version: K77 Tweeter K55v Mid K22 Woofer Thpe E Crossover Newer Version: K77 Tweeter (Plastic) K53 Mid (Plastic) K22 Woofer (uh, not plastic!!) Type E-2 Crossover) By the way, I realize that it is because the Heresys are sealed, but the crossovers look new in all four. Like I said above, I am lookinmg for an inexpensive rebuild (if necessary) for Home Theater surround duty using a Denon 5800 receiver. Thanks, Chris ----------------

The Partsexpress site lists the following for the Auricaps: * These are SIDEREAL Capspredecessors to AURICAPindentical, except lead material is solid-core, not stranded copper. Is this accurate? The otehr sites don't list the Auricaps in values that I will need. Are the sidreals teh same as teh Auricaps? Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/17/2005 5:52:54 PM Al Klappenberger wrote: Guys, I am interested in the difference the AuriCaps make. I think the 20+20 uF in place of the 39+bypass is probably an improvement. My first prototype used 20+20 "Zen" caps from North Creek Music. The losses at 17 KHz very from 0.25 - 0.35 dB from one set to another. This is probably the veriation in the Solen 39 uF. Even a 20+20 fastcap without the 1 uF Harmoney may even be an improvement. I am not sure. The 6+1 uF was done just to get 7 uF. It's the LEAST critical part in the network. I had one of my first customers put a 7 uF Hovland in there. He dould not hear the difference. Al K. ---------------- Where can I get the Auricapps? Someone else had asked for a link earlier too. Will the Hovlands (yes four of 'em--$$$ --> ouch!!) make a big improvement over the Solens or Auricapps in this position? Al, What makes the tweeter position less critical? From the diagram, it seems that the 39 / 1 uF position is critical because it leads to the mid and tweeter. Is the 7.0 uF position less critical because the 39/1 uF and the subsequent Hovland 2.2 uF have already "shaved off" the lows? Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/17/2005 5:48:24 PM stewartwen wrote: I HAVE THE OPORTUNUTY TO PURCHASE A PAIR OF KLIPSCH HERESY LOUDSPEAKERS. I HAVE HEARD THAT THIS L/S IS COLOURED IN THE UPPER BASS. IS THIS THE CASE OR IS THIS JUST HERESAY. IF THIS IS THE CASE IS IT POSSIBLE TO MOUNT THE DRIVERS ON AN OPEN BAFFLE? OR IS THIS JUST WISHFULL THINKING. WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST WAY TO LOAD THE DRIVE UNITS? HORN, OPEN BAFFLE, REFLEX OR INFINITE BAFFLE. AS I AM A RELATIVE NEWBIE TO KLIPSCH LOUDSPEAKERS I VALUE YOUR HELP. STEWART ---------------- Please don't cut up a set of Heresys!!! What kind of shape are they in and how much is the price? Chris

---------------- On 1/17/2005 4:44:33 PM DeanG wrote: What year are your Heresy's? ---------------- I have two sets for HT surrounds. When I first bought them, I waqs really surpised that "for some unknown reason" the older ratty pair sounded way better that the newer ones. The parts should explain why: Older version: K77 Tweeter K55v Mid K22 Woofer Thpe E Crossover Newer Version: K77 Tweeter (Plastic) K53 Mid (Plastic) K22 Woofer (uh, not plastic!!) Type E-2 Crossover) By the way, I realize that it is because the Heresys are sealed, but the crossovers look new in all four. Like I said above, I am lookinmg for an inexpensive rebuild (if necessary) for Home Theater surround duty using a Denon 5800 receiver. Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/17/2005 4:11:56 PM DeanG wrote: At any rate ... The true value for that position is 7uF. According to Al, over or under a little is no big deal. Most sell a 6.8uF, and Al just throws a .1uF on top of it. Nothing wrong with that. None of these caps are dead on anyways. Hell, you could probably just use a 6.8 by itself. Chances are, it'll end up being a 7 anyways. ---------------- Dean, The schematic that I downloaded from Al's site shows a 6.2 uFd Solen with a 1 uFd HArmony. If I get crazy and decide to use a more expensive cap, should I use something close to 7uF and parallel a 0.1 uFd bypass cap or shoot for 6 uFd with a 1.0 uFd bypass? PS. I just picked up a piece of tigerwood for the boards!!!

---------------- On 1/17/2005 4:05:45 PM leok wrote: Chris, That's correct. I don't know if I was lucky and received a few real stubborn cases. But, I don't care to risk it again. Leo ---------------- Leo, So how do you break in capacitors? From your response, I assume that I will need to do this to the Solens and Hovlands. AA Crossover Question: From what I gather, change the AA's to A's for cheap improvement. I attached a schematic, it is really simple. Because I am considering Type A's for my Belles (Home theater duty with a Denon receiver) I have a few questions: 1. CAn I use teh T2A from my AB Networks (does it even have a T2A)? 2. Should I just use a Solen 2.4 mH inductor? (Litz or solid wire)? 3. What type of caps shoudl be used? Can I just use Solen or Hovlands or will I need an "oil" cap? If I need oil caps, what do the expers here reccomend? Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/17/2005 2:28:16 AM DeanG wrote: No, I put a 7uF Auricap there. I was on the fence at the time about using bypass caps in networks. Since that time however I've run across plenty of additional info that leads me to believe there's some validity to it. At any rate, Al says it's a non-critical part of the circuit, so I would leave that section just the way it is. ---------------- Dean, Excuse my inexperience, but what is the advantage to having a bypass. If I were to use an upgraded cap in the tweeter section, would you reccomend a 7uF or a 6uF combined with a 1.0 uF Harmony? Will changing the value to 7 from 7.2 degrade any of the ALK's steady impedence presented to the amp? Is it worth it to add a 0.22 uF to ge back to 7.2 uF total? Leo, I may be misquoting you, are you saying that teh Hovlands in you Chorus's never broke in? Thanks, Chris

I see that the schematic has John Albright's mod. My Heresys are old and since I am rebuilding my x-overs in other speaker, now would be a good time to do the Heresys. What are the specs for the inductors? (wire guage)? Is a Litz type wire better to use than solid core for this application (AL only uses Lits on the HF drivers)? Do inductors even wear out (should I just replace the caps)? The ALK's are just too expensive to do 4 for surround speakers for HT (using a Denon SS Receiver). Does anyone have a good design that is cheaper? I was thinking about just replaceing the caps with Solens and replacing the transformer and inductor if needed. Thanks, Chris

Leo, Offtopic question that I posted this elsewhere: I just picked up a Phillips 963 and want to do the Blackgate cap mod. I read LeoK's old thread and have a few questions: 1. Others have mentioned that it takes about 200 hours to break in the cap. However, Leo mentioned (I think) in another thread that he was working on a method of breaking the cap in on the workbench before install. Has this been perfected yet? 2. Draining the old cap. I am assuming that I just use a resistor across the taps to drain the old cap. Am I correct and what size and specs for the resistor? 3. I need to buy a new soldering iron. Need reccomendations. Rat Shak has a $30 gun style model that is 150w/240w. I think that I probably need one of these and a pen style iron (what wattage)? I need to be able to solder on a circuit board and on lugs for resistors, capacitors, etc and my old iron is way too weak. Are the Rat Shak models up to the job or should I be looking on ebay for an industrial unit? Thanks, Chris

---------------- On 1/16/2005 5:30:08 PM DeanG wrote: A hell of a lot. Are you insane like Steve? Solen 39uF bypassed with 1uF Harmony replaced with two 20uF Auricaps in parallel -- four 20uF's total, $168.00 shipped. However, a 40uF Zen from www.Northcreekmusic.com, or a 40uF AudioCap from www.percyaudio.com RelCap might get you most of the way there for half as much. ---------------- Dean. I may be insane, but just checking out my options, don't want to do this two times!! What about the 6.2 + 1.0 uF section? It looks like you replaced the Solens and Harmony's in that section too. Chris