formica

I don't think you have to make any changes to the x-over... just moving things around on a new front baffle. Someone just made the same conversion on the HTF forum... in the DIY section. I'd like to add one note though: Seeing that the KG4.2 have one woofer and one PR, they may LOOK symetrical when placed on either side of the mid-horn BUT the woofer and PR don't play the same frequencies. The woofer will play the mid-bass and just as it begins to roll off, the PR will pick up that narrow frequency range. It'll play similarly as placing the KG on it's side. If you finish both the top and bottom of your centre, you can flip it around and have the woofer on the side that sounds the most pleasing to you. I still think you'll end up with a better center than most other commercially available unmatched units... Later... Rob

If everything checks out, but before you consider a x-over rebuild... i would try flipping the tweeter out of your Cornwalls into the Heresy and vice-versa ... A simple test just to see if the problem follows the tweeter or the x-over. There is always a possibility that the K77 diaphragm has fatigued. Just a thought... Rob

---------------- On 5/13/2003 11:15:30 AM Mlstrass wrote: What's so impractical about an IB sub??? .... GREAT suggestion Dustin!! ---------------- I think IB can be impratical for many people for the fact that you need a large enough adjoining space to use as an "infinite" baffle... whether it is a room, an attic, or a crawl space. Anyone who lives in a multifamily dwelling or a rental unit may have problems modifing the home for bass. Attic spaces are also harder to use if you live in a northern climate. But i agree with dustin for ultimate performance... Rob

Remember that doubling of the power (eg: 75W versus 150W) will only increase the volume by 3db ... which makes all the reciever power rating specs seem very insignificant. Seeing that your Klipsch are very efficient compared to many other brands so i really don't think you have to worry about enough power. An example would be a speaker rated 98db/1W1m with a 75W amp will play as loud as a 92db/1W1m speaker with 300W amp (or even a 89db/1W1m with 600W amp) Obviously this is assuming that all the speakers in question can handle that much power and excursion. As for wires, you will never know if you are amongst the people who can hear the difference if you don't know what regular/cheap wires sound like in the first place... My opinion is buy regular 12guage zip cord, use it for a couple of years, then borrow some better cables and see if you can hear a difference. Enjoy your new setup... Rob

three posts for a simple question... ... i just wanted to add that the Industrial version of the LaScala had a different woofer and x-over, but it's just an exception to the rule already given.

Ok guys... I tested them out properly and you know what? one of the drivers is blown and it's not the first time they were pushed to hard, as one of the mismatched drivers has a large "R" stamped on the back... which i just read on here that it's a Klipsch Replacement. This leaves little choice but either a recone or a replace ... I wonder if a "proper" recone kit is still available? I'll have to check it out locally ... Or there is always the Layne Audio replacement drivers. ---------------- On 5/12/2003 12:16:53 AM CaptnBob wrote: it attracted dust and dog-hair, and looked pretty bad to boot. ---------------- hmmm... kinda makes me think of their existing gluely surronds oh... and more pictures if anyone likes that kind of stuff...: Woofer-01-Front.jpg Woofer-01-Rear.jpg Woofer-02-Front.jpg Woofer-02-Rear.jpg later... Rob

I also posted in that same thread... you go and take a look at: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=33691&sessionID={C57D8CEB-6845-452F-B30B-6F06E4F7E687} In talking about the prosoundweb LAB12 woofer i mentionned: ---------------- It appears to be a good design, and like you already mentioned the biggest drawback of horn-loaded subs is their inherent lack of bass extension and their complex construction... while their biggest benefit is efficiency. They are also HUGE for interior use... and you thought a heritage Klipsch is large... ---------------- later... Rob

---------------- On 5/12/2003 9:11:13 AM Johnny dB wrote: I also think that the LaScalas have more bass than the Cornwalls. ---------------- Although the LaScala have a lot of mid bass, they roll-off pretty early and I think Danno was referring to this lack of bass extension. Danno, the Cornwalls do play quite a bit lower but you are correct in assuming that the port (and the cabinet) use the floor for bass reinforcement. I have never listened to my Cornwalls upside down and on stands but both the Heresys on stands and the LaScala on casters will have very noticable reduced bass extension... so I think it's safe to assume the Cornwall will behave "similarly". Rob.

---------------- On 5/4/2003 5:10:34 PM Frzninvt wrote: Perhaps it just yellowed or slightly browned over time. ---------------- Yes, both oil based lacquer and polyurethane will yellow quite a bit over time... so at application,they will appear lighter in colour (but still quite golden). Water based finishes are much clearer and won't yellow much with age. As for polyurethane application, it pretty much the same as furniture... i prefer a foam brush, 3 to 15 coats, light wet sanding between each coat. later... Rob

I was just using the Yahoo pricing for reference but prefer buying from a B&M as well, esp at the same price. I also agree that the SVS is the better deal.

I don't have the user manual for your rear speakers, but assuming your internal MDF box volume matches the recommended size... It should actually improve the speakers performance. Here is my understanding: the inwall speakers are designed to be used in a sealed box (your wall) so if the MDF box is well built, it should only help by allowing a better control of the enclosure construction versus gypsum/studs. No air-leaks, low resonant frequency, correct size, etc...

Following your posts and links i'm convinced the dust cap repair would be quite easy... but has anyone tried this technique to restore the cone? http://www.decware.com/surrnd26.htm the discriptiopn says "take our adhesive and dilute it with water by mixing one part adhesive and one part water. Using this solution, and a small foam brush or sponge, apply a layer to the cone by brushing in one direction only. This restores the cone." I guess i'd like them to look spiffy... Another thing i was wondering about was the surronds, as they seem "Rubbery" or "Sticky" on these 75's Heresys but don't on my 78's Heresys or Cornwalls. Were they made like this? How do you get the dust off?!? I took a couple of pictures of the unmatched cones: Cone 1 Cone 2 I also noticed Parts Express sells a cone restorer... but they describe it as glossy. thanks again... Rob

First you have to consider that the RSW10 isn't actually close to twice the STREET price of the SVS 20-39Pci ... but actually the same cost. The Klipsch price you mentioned is the MSRP while the SVS price is the street price before shipping (as they only sell direct). Secondly, you can't audition a SVS sub... so it's a larger gamble... it has to make up for it in cost and performance. Third, in the audio world many products are sold according to the "perceived" value and not based on what it costs to produce. In other words, Klipsch name is worth more than the SVS name, so they are charging a larger administration/profit than SVS. But that is just my personal view... Rob PS: the RSW 10 sells for 620$ to 650$ on Yahoo Shopping

For anyone who is interested, I checked with the Canadian Klipsch distributor for the cost of replacement woofers, the K-24-K ... and their going price is 193$cnd each (which is about 130$US) The new woofers cost more than the actual Heresys did ! Obviously there always is Ebay, or re-coning, or replacing just the dust caps and living with small marks on the cones... Thanks for the Parts Express info JCturboT ... looks simple enough.

As you probably have already read, subwoofers are VERY room dependant, so auditioning the subwoofers should be done as-much-as-possible in the same location. Room peaks can easily add 15db to a resonant frequency... so it can easily make one sub sound boomy in one room and flat in the next. For example, you listen to a sub which rolls off at 28Hz but there is a room peak is at 20Hz which makes it sound flatter... then you listen to another sub which extends flat down to 20Hz but in a room with a 30Hz peak which makes it sound boomy! Regardless of the sub you buy, if you want "accurate" bass reproduction, I would definitely follow jstanton8's recommendation for a parametric subwoofer EQ to tame the room resonances. I noticed you were most intrigued by sealed subs probably because of their short group delay? Unfortunately it is more difficult to have F3 below 20Hz for a sealed sub versus a ported sub, but it's part of the trade-off (extension for speed). I haven't heard most of the subs on your list... but I would definitely recommend you give the Velo HGS's an audition as well as the Paradigm Servo 15. Even though you are looking at sealed units, while you are auditioning the Servo-15 you should give the Paradigm PW2200 a listen even though it is ported as it does go lower and is a bargain for what you are getting. later... Rob

You can pick some up at most hardware stores... look in the concrete section, as it is normally used to form round columns.

---------------- On 5/2/2003 3:27:09 PM dbflash wrote: They can not work on K77M tweeters. ---------------- Why not? They have the exact same diaphragm, just a slightly different support bracket.... Give them a call, I bought my repair parts from them did the repair myself: Step-by-Step Diaphragm Replacement for the K-77 Tweeter http://www3.sympatico.ca/bonaz/Klipsch/K77-diaphram/K77-diaphram.htm Haven't noticed any sonic difference between my two tweeters ...

I agree, doing both is a better idea... These were speakers I was considering buying, they were relatively inexpensive... so i went ahead and got them. I was origianlly looking for parts to build a custom center (as well as a center rear channel), so if i go that route, the woofers and cabinets aren't as critical... but part of me is telling me to restore them. They are a set of 1975 Heresys... and the woofers have seen better days but seem to play well. I will test them out at home in the next comming weeks. I'm considering getting them both re-coned, depending on the cost... After all they appear to be the original K-22 (-EF ?) woofers. Thanks for the input... Rob.

Anyone ever replace a "dust cap" on a heritage woofer ? I was looking at a set of used Heresys with ripped caps... Many of the "decorator" models had no front grille... so not only is it common to have damaged dust caps, but with nothing to hide them, they look awful. I saw Parts-Express sells replacement ones pretty cheap, but is it just a question of gluing it on? Any links to how it's done?

One shouldn't forget though, that our perception of bass isn't linear and it does vary with volume. In other words, we have a reduced sensitivity to low frequencies (as well as the highest ones) at low volumes... I think this was the thinking behind the "loudness" buttons we used to see in the 70's and 80's ... to re-EQ the signal for low level listening, and were supposed to be turned off when you "crank it up".

who knows... maybe PWK was his father ?

---------------- On 5/2/2003 11:58:17 PM Bill H. wrote: I am running a Creek MKII int amp with a Sony CDP-CE 275 changer. ... CD music is muffled .... Music from the internet sounds clear and crisp... ---------------- Are you running you PC to the same Creek amp? If you are, try switching the line in's for the PC and CD player. A couple of things to note: 1) you mentioned "I have to turn up the volume on the amp to achieve the same volume as I have when listening to internet music" but remember that the line-level out may be different on the PC versus the CD player. Some Sonys had adjustable line-level outputs ... if you have one, put it to the maximum. The PC should also have a software volume... try adjusting it so it's about the same as the CD. 2) you mentionned "CD music is muffled .... Music from the internet sounds clear and crisp..." Internet radio is usually low-fi regardles of the compression (bits) chosen... especially compared to CD. If the CD still sounds worse than the radio after the previous tests... I think it's the CD player ! 3) Ray is right, the cables will not make a big enough difference, and it's most probably not it. Also if your tweeters were blown, it would be the same regardless of the source (put you ear up next to it... if you hear something, you are ok) CD music will always sound more dynamic, full, and clearer than analog or internet radio... Play an 128kbps mp3, and then compare it to the original CD at a respectable low-fi system and you will stil hear the difference. Later... Rob

---------------- On 5/5/2003 7:33:41 PM TBrennan wrote: The LSs have a little better bass clarity and get louder. They also have poor bass extension and a midrange-forward sound as a result. The CW goes lower in the bass... ---------------- I agree with that, i guess it depends what you prefer and are looking for... they are similar (sharing most of their components) but the tuned port versus horn loaded bass section do change their overall character. Rob PS: I also prefer the Cornwall but that is really a personal thing

The AVA250 has a built in cross-over with line level inputs and high-pass line level outputs. You can take the .1 LFE signal right off your SB card and plug that into the line level input of you AVA250 You'll find the Analog/Digital Out jack is both the Center/LFE or can be switched to digital out. From page 12 of your manual: Analog/Digital Out: The default for the Analog/Digital Output jack on Sound Blaster Live! is analog output. Bass Redirection: Dolby Digital delivers five full range channels and one bass-only effects channel. Bass redirection allows lowfrequency source content from the front, rear, and center channels to be redirected and added to the lowfrequency source effects (LFE) channel to produce deeper subwoofer output. good luck... Rob PS: i guess when all else fails, read the instructions...

---------------- On 5/3/2003 9:27:35 AM bclarke421 wrote: Actually, re the 40Hz bump, that may be what's causing your problem. Try cutting 40Hz, and your 80Hz resonance may go away. ---------------- I second bclarke421 on that one... even though your 40Hz resonance seems less pronounced because of your speakers natural roll off, it is obviously still there. Your test didn't go all the way down to 20Hz but it may be there too. If you'd like to optimise you room through placement, there are some software such as CARA which will analyse your situation and make furniture placement recommendations. You basically tell it the region within which it can reposition a piece and it will calculate it out for you. Cara at http://www.rhintek.com./ a review of Cara at http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_9_4/cara-software-10-2002.html For a parametric subwoofer EQ, i'd go with the Behringer 1124P as already mentioned, it's inexpensive and VERY flexible.... and is all the talk in DIY forums. I would try to EQ the sub only, as i don't like passing high-frequencies through any one. http://www.behringer.com/02_products/prodindex.cfm?id=DSP1124P〈=eng Test Tones? I'd just make my own... and burn them onto a CD. WinISD speaker design program has a tone generator built in if you have that already... OR i used NCH to make individual 10sec tracks for 1/6 octave. You can download it free at: http://www.nch.com.au/tonegen/ Hope it's of some help... Rob