Bigdnfay1 Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hi All, I need some opinions. When I built my jubs several years ago, I mounted my woofers on a removable board to make installation easier(based on the way khorn woofers were mounted years ago). After looking at the pics from the factory build I decided to remove the board and mount the woofers directly to the motorboard. Here's my issue... During my build I didn't install T-Nuts(to hold the woofers) and I don't really want to use wood screws. I'm looking for some alternative ways to mount the woofers to the motorboard. After going thru Lowe's and Home Depot for inspiration, this is all I could come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 You can't reach through the throat and start and hold the T-nut until it bites and pulls up? You need to install them and tighten them with a bolt and stack of washers before you use them to hold the woofers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksonbart Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I like to Club Loners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hi All, I need some opinions. When I built my jubs several years ago, I mounted my woofers on a removable board to make installation easier(based on the way khorn woofers were mounted years ago). After looking at the pics from the factory build I decided to remove the board and mount the woofers directly to the motorboard. Here's my issue... During my build I didn't install T-Nuts(to hold the woofers) and I don't really want to use wood screws. I'm looking for some alternative ways to mount the woofers to the motorboard. After going thru Lowe's and Home Depot for inspiration, this is all I could come up with. What is the thickness of the motorboard (your removeable board)? I would leave it in personally. Klipsch uses two gaskets to provide "space" to prevent the woofer from bottoming out onto the baffle. O/W, if you used plywood, you could screw right into the baffle. I've done it. Are you still using the pioneers? I would switch to either Klipsch K31's if you can find them or even better yet.......Eminence Kappalite 3012 LF. I wish those woofers were available at the time I built my clones.....I no longer have them.... jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdnfay1 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 jwc, the removable plate is 1 inch thick, one piece of 3/4 ply and a 1/4 ply to keep the woofer from bottoming out. i;m using k-31's that are from klf-30's. they came with the decorative plastic rings. i removed the rings and replaced them with a single gasket. i have ordered additional gaskets to have 2 layers. removing the plates will add some additional rear volume. i could use wood screws but i'm just worried they will loosen up over time. Big D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hey Big D, I am using the threaded inserts on my clone build and they are ideal. I got some stainless steel ones though as I thought the brass ones from Lowes to be a little soft. That is probably just me though. Here, take a look at McFeely's. http://www.mcfeelys.com/threaded-inserts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Are you still using the pioneers? I would switch to either Klipsch K31's if you can find them or even better yet.......Eminence Kappalite 3012 LF. I wish those woofers were available at the time I built my clones.....I no longer have them.... jc Well you know I gotta ask What makes the 3012's a better match? What could the improvements be? I couldn't imagine the LF getting much better so I am very curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 jwc, the removable plate is 1 inch thick, one piece of 3/4 ply and a 1/4 ply to keep the woofer from bottoming out. i;m using k-31's that are from klf-30's. they came with the decorative plastic rings. i removed the rings and replaced them with a single gasket. i have ordered additional gaskets to have 2 layers. removing the plates will add some additional rear volume. i could use wood screws but i'm just worried they will loosen up over time. Big D I hear your concern....but I've gotten away with # 8 or #10 wood screws and lock washers. Always stayed tight. But if you could try what JJ suggested......that would be nicer. The 1" is definately too thick. Why not make another one that is just 1/2 inch thick? Just a thought... jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Are you still using the pioneers? I would switch to either Klipsch K31's if you can find them or even better yet.......Eminence Kappalite 3012 LF. I wish those woofers were available at the time I built my clones.....I no longer have them.... jc Well you know I gotta ask What makes the 3012's a better match? What could the improvements be? I couldn't imagine the LF getting much better so I am very curious. Neodymium and excursion to start with. The T/S line up as well as the K31. BUT!!! You are using ESNALKJub nets........specific for K31's. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdnfay1 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 jorjen, THANKS, just what i was looking for. did you use any epoxy on the outer threads when you installed them. i guess i'm just being mr. overkill. Big D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Are you still using the pioneers? I would switch to either Klipsch K31's if you can find them or even better yet.......Eminence Kappalite 3012 LF. I wish those woofers were available at the time I built my clones.....I no longer have them.... jc Well you know I gotta ask What makes the 3012's a better match? What could the improvements be? I couldn't imagine the LF getting much better so I am very curious. Neodymium and excursion to start with. The T/S line up as well as the K31. BUT!!! You are using ESNALKJub nets........specific for K31's. jc I wasn't thinking of upgrading the LF. I have other fish to fry. The next thing I do to the LF will be a paint and veneer job from Dexter in Hope. The idea that the LF could sound even better with different drivers is something that hasn't really been explored. I'm still curious as to how this could improve sound quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 You won't need to lock them in with any adhesive BigD. You use the suggested drill bit size for the insert and they go in TIGHT. Truly a perfect fastener for this application. Just thought of something BigD. You won't be able to fit your drill into the woofer chamber with a drill guide attached so you will be drilling free hand and the holes really need to be as straight into the wood as possible for the correct installation and use of the inserts. Just something to be aware of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdnfay1 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Excellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I added to/edited the post above with an additional thought BigD. I think you read it before the edit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdnfay1 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 I have a 90 degree attachment for my drill. I will drill holes in the removable plate, reinstall it and line them up via the plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 I figured you probably did BigD, but still won't be able to use a drill guide, know what I mean? No big deal, just wanted to mention it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdnfay1 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 edited my earlier post. i think this will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted September 28, 2009 Share Posted September 28, 2009 Great idea! Best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Well you know I gotta ask What makes the 3012's a better match? What could the improvements be? I couldn't imagine the LF getting much better so I am very curious. It should have better large signal performance and very similar small signal (T/S params) behavior. Large signal would include distortions related to excursion and thermal issues, which show up more and more as you go lower in frequency. You might see some differences in the inductance modulation as well, which would improve the HF response as well. Those threaded inserts are pretty cool....what stops them from going all the way through? Just don't drill the hole all the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.