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Mini fridge making my subwoofer go "thud"


Kain

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Every time my mini fridge turns off, it makes a "click" sound and, at the same time, my subwoofer makes a "thud" sound. Is this, in any way, harmful to my subwoofer? I don't really mind the "thud" sound from the subwoofer as long as it won't damage my subwoofer.

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No power conditioner or surge protector. However, I am using one of those extension sockets (which plug into the wall and offer more power sockets) and both the subwoofer and mini fridge are connected on this extension socket.

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I got one that's even weirder than the OP. My sub is plugged into a power strip, which in turn goes to a wall outlet, obviously. The only thing connected to this outlet or the power strip is the sub. Sometimes, switching the fluorescent ceiling lights on/off in my kitchen (totally separate room) induces an audible thud in the sub. I suppose its possible that the outlet and those lights are on the same breaker, but even so, that seems very odd to me. Thoughts??

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ALWAYS use a good quality surge suppressor, ALWAYS!!!

Not some cheap Walmart power strip but something that will STOP the surge and noise from passing on to the sub.

Something from Tripp-Lite should do the trick around $30-$50 bucks. If not.... it's just a matter of time before the electronics just die....

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ALWAYS use a good quality surge suppressor, ALWAYS!!!

Not some cheap Walmart power strip but something that will STOP the surge and noise from passing on to the sub.

Something from Tripp-Lite should do the trick around $30-$50 bucks. If not.... it's just a matter of time before the electronics just die....

If you go that route, as opposed to going straight into the wall socket, be sure you find one rated at a high enough wattage to handle the sub amp. Depending on the size of your sub amp, you may not find one big enough to handle it. I run all my electronics through my Furman, but not my sub amp. It's on a different circuit. You don't want to choke the amps supply down through too small of a surge protector.

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I got one that's even weirder than the OP. My sub is plugged into a power strip, which in turn goes to a wall outlet, obviously. The only thing connected to this outlet or the power strip is the sub. Sometimes, switching the fluorescent ceiling lights on/off in my kitchen (totally separate room) induces an audible thud in the sub. I suppose its possible that the outlet and those lights are on the same breaker, but even so, that seems very odd to me. Thoughts??

It is probably not just on the same breaker, but some moron may very well have put it in paralel on the same run. You have two hots in a service center, and I always run recepticles on one leg and lights on the other when I wire a house. I hate dimming lights if I run a power tool, it is not good for the motor either. Class D amplifiers need to be able to draw alot of current fast. My pair of Velodynes are suposed to be capable of 1250 watts RMS and 3000 watts peak each. You are supposed to run a dedicated circuit for your microwave with not a single other outlet on the line. Why then would you not run a dedicated circuit for each sub if you have a descent one??? I ran two 30 amp breakers with 10 gauge, one circuit for each sub. Overkill?, YES, you betcha!!

Roger / Gadfly

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I got one that's even weirder than the OP. My sub is plugged into a power strip, which in turn goes to a wall outlet, obviously. The only thing connected to this outlet or the power strip is the sub. Sometimes, switching the fluorescent ceiling lights on/off in my kitchen (totally separate room) induces an audible thud in the sub. I suppose its possible that the outlet and those lights are on the same breaker, but even so, that seems very odd to me. Thoughts??

It is probably not just on the same breaker, but some moron may very well have put it in paralel on the same run. You have two hots in a service center, and I always run recepticles on one leg and lights on the other when I wire a house. I hate dimming lights if I run a power tool, it is not good for the motor either. Class D amplifiers need to be able to draw alot of current fast. My pair of Velodynes are suposed to be capable of 1250 watts RMS and 3000 watts peak each. You are supposed to run a dedicated circuit for your microwave with not a single other outlet on the line. Why then would you not run a dedicated circuit for each sub if you have a descent one??? I ran two 30 amp breakers with 10 gauge, one circuit for each sub. Overkill?, YES, you betcha!!

Roger / Gadfly

Not a bad idea really. Perhaps I'll run 2 dedicated circuits with one for the sub and one for the rest of the HT/Stereo components. I'll be evaluating my wiring situation soon anyway when I replace the kitchen lights.

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