I know its a lot to ask... Heresy I crossovers

[Invidiosulus]

It's not the first time we have worked together

I'm not sure about the solder, the silver stuff usually has a lower melting point which will help you to not fry your components.

how's madison these days? I was born there but haven't been back in my adult life.

-Josh

[Malcolm]

Best solder would be 63/37 tin/lead because it goes from liquid to solid with little to no mushiness in between. It will make life easier for you if you don't have much experience soldering. It melts and solidifies at the same temperature, 361 degrees Fahrenheit. If that is not available, just use 60/40. True silver solder has a much higher melting point.

[Rivernuggets]

Thanks for the advice guys, this is truly a great forum.

If they're not too expensive I may get both 63/37 and 'silver', then solder speaker wire together and see how the learning curve goes. With the crossover I'll go with the lower melting point to stay on the safe side.

[Rivernuggets]

how's madison these days? I was born there but haven't been back in my adult life.
-Josh

I've been in Madison since 2001 and love living here. Few of the pros coming to mind: College town (though I'm a decade beyond that now), bike friendly, a lot of CSA farm options, good lakes for fishing. Not a huge city by any means but big enough to get touring artists.

A few years ago they built the Overture Center downtown. Very expensive and it took out a lot of local business on the first two blocks of State street. Created some controversy but it is a very nice venue.

What brought you away from this wonderland that is Madison? I've noticed for a lot of people (me included), it's hard to stay where you grew up. Did you want to live in a bigger city?

[Malcolm]

If they're not too expensive I may get both 63/37 and 'silver'

Just so you understand, there are lead free solders for electronics that contain 3-4% silver. These are not silver solder.

There are other silver containing solders meant for other purposes that contain larger percentages of silver and melt at higher temperatures.

The kind of silver solder used by jewelers is really used for brazing with temperatures well over 800 degrees Fahrenheit.

Be sure you use a flux-core solder, not an acid-core solder. The latter is for plumbing and will damage electronic components.

[Invidiosulus]

What brought you away from this wonderland that is Madison? I've noticed for a lot of people (me included), it's hard to stay where you grew up. Did you want to live in a bigger city?

My family left Madison when I was 4 and moved out to Waterloo.

Then when I was around 8 we moved down to Chattanooga TN to help take care of my grandfather on my mothers side.

We lived over on Gorham street not too far from Tenney park iirc.

After college I moved back to Chattanooga for a while and then followed a job up to NC.

As far as living in a bigger city I'm currently in a town of less then 1000 full time residents []

-Josh

[JohnA]

Like this:

[JohnA]

But this is better if you have K-55-Vs and K-77-? tweeters and shows a more even impedance to your amp.

[Rivernuggets]

But this is better if you have K-55-Vs and K-77-? tweeters and shows a more even impedance to your amp.

Thanks John. Haven't had time to do the mod yet. My Heresy does have the K-55-V and K-77. So after moving Taps 3 to 2, and 2 to 1, are you saying bridge Taps 5 and 0 together with a resistor? I bought a pair of these resistors per Bruce's suggestion. Is it acceptable for this bridge? Also, I do not know what is added to the negative squawker line (0.35 to 0.40 mH).

I should really take a couple classes at the Tech here in town. [^o)]

[Deang]

Since you already have the resistors I suggest just moving forward with the original plan. It's simple and straightforward and allows you to hear the results of attenuating the horns in short order. After you've determined whether you like it or not, you can try the other design if you feel compelled to try it. I would seriously consider changing out the capacitors while you have the boards out. It needs to be done, and doing it now will save you a trip back into the cabinet later.

[jwwrs]

Forgive me for being "dense". Is adding the 15/16 ohm resistor and the tap changes applicable to an E-2 network as well as as the type E crossover?

I have the H1.5's and would like to try out the mod, if I'm not gonna screw anything up. BTW, I've already replaced the caps.

Thanks, Guys

[Fjd]

I picked up four old Heresy cabinets awhile back to match with an old Marantz 4270 four channel receiver as a project system. I did the quick modification for the crossover network with the single resistor in parallel with the K55 mid-driver. I ended up only moving the mid-driver from tap 2 to tap 1 and left the tweeter on tap 3 (moved it back to 3 after listening awhile on 2). In my application all four Heresy speakers have the Crites CT-125 tweeters and this configuration seemed to provide the most balanced presentation of music. Overall, I believe that it is a good modification and do not plan to change it back to stock.

Also, for those looking at both schematics, in addition to the inductor added to the mid-driver, there seems to be a capacitor value change (2 uF to 21 uF?) on the more extensive modification.

[Rivernuggets]

Since you already have the resistors I suggest just moving forward with the original plan. It's simple and straightforward and allows you to hear the results of attenuating the horns in short order. After you've determined whether you like it or not, you can try the other design if you feel compelled to try it. I would seriously consider changing out the capacitors while you have the boards out. It needs to be done, and doing it now will save you a trip back into the cabinet later.

Thanks DeanG,

I understand the capacitor replacement procedure from reading from the Forum archives. Could you (or others) please direct me to appropriate caps replacements. Parts Express? I know there are different ones to pick from.

EDIT: I found appropriate capacitor options. Just had to look around the archives a little more.

[Rivernuggets]

Finally had the chance to do the mod and listen. Modded one speaker, then compared each. It brought down the squawker and tweeter output, closer to the woofer output. It made it sound like there was more low end which my ears liked right away. Did the other speaker and listened the rest of the afternoon. Thanks so much for the help everyone.

Following DeanG's advice, now onto ordering new capacitors. I'll use one of these, as suggested by John Albright in an earlier thread:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-214

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-534

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=027-724

I know people here have said to not spend a lot on caps, but I still lean toward the ones for $16.47 each. I have a bad case of 'what if' in buying cheaper.

[Deang]

A lot of people are wrong -- buy the Thetas.

[Paul Hale]

I'll vouch for the mods, too. A few months ago I rebuilt a pair of Heresy I speakers, and used something like John Albright's Type E modified network with the 20uF midrange cap and the 11 ohm impedance-smoothing resistor. The character of the speaker was transformed into something much better. (Thanks, John!) This is especially good for most tube amps to have the impedance smoothed out. Highly recommended by this listener. One could do this to the E-2 network, also.