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DIY sub for Klipschorn based HT (and music) - Tuba HT - build done (except for finish)!


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Yes, a great job on the construction and finishing, well done!

I spent a few free hours going over the TubaHT plans yesterday trying to decide which size to build, overall size is not an issue because the room is a dedicated space and what ever I go with will be incorporated into the final layout. Originally I was going to build a ProSound LAB sub and that beast is 45x45x22.5 !!!

Bills comment on the bottom of the first page is what swayed me "Of course, if you have room for an 18 inch cab or wider and already have the appropriate twelve on hand by all means use it"...

I have 2 Eminence Labs 12 sub so I am leaning towards two 30" wide TubaHT's one for each side of the theatre screen.

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I'm about to build a tapped horn for my lone LAB woofer 30x60x14.5 inches.. I already have cut pieces for 2 original Danley LAB horns to replace my MWMs in my stacks, but no funds for the 3 extra drivers I need (bought Heresy's and Fortes for other rooms instead) so that will be on hold until 2011.

the tapped horn is from the DIY forum on the Tapped Horn project and uses only one LAB 12 woofer per box.. Field proven to go lower (like 16.5 Hz) than the Tuba in a 15 cu ft. box, but lower efficiency.Mine will be an oak coffee table. Only need 2 sheets of oak plywood.

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This sounds interesting, where can I get the plans for the Danley LAB horns, and is this a DTS-10?

Can you provide a link to the single LAB tapped horn as well?

I have 2 LAB 12's and I am looking for the best project for them (to be used in a home theater and it always good to compare before cutting into the wood!

Thanks!

I'm about to build a tapped horn for my lone LAB woofer 30x60x14.5 inches.. I already have cut pieces for 2 original Danley LAB horns to replace my MWMs in my stacks, but no funds for the 3 extra drivers I need (bought Heresy's and Fortes for other rooms instead) so that will be on hold until 2011.

the tapped horn is from the DIY forum on the Tapped Horn project and uses only one LAB 12 woofer per box.. Field proven to go lower (like 16.5 Hz) than the Tuba in a 15 cu ft. box, but lower efficiency.Mine will be an oak coffee table. Only need 2 sheets of oak plywood.

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Looks a lot easier to build than a THT! Duh!! [:'(]

Nah, I'm kidding... I'm sure I'll be happy with the THT. This does look very interesting though! 60x30x13 is more of a speaker format than a sub. What room placement does it need? The THT's 18-inches from the wall makes it even bigger than it's physical size.

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Looks a lot easier to build than a THT! Duh!! [:'(]

Nah,
I'm kidding... I'm sure I'll be happy with the THT. This does look
very interesting though! 60x30x13 is more of a speaker format than a
sub. What room placement does it need? The THT's 18-inches from the
wall makes it even bigger than it's physical size.

Voyons donc, un Quebecois de Rimouski!! Ca c'est formidable en tabarnac!! LOL

Tapped horns are both 1/4 wave and 1/2 wave horns, so it's 18 ft. and almost 36 ft. respectively. Mine will be a coffee table right by my feet so it will be acoustically within 5 feet of my flanks, which are 13 feet away in corners. I think corner placement lower the cutoff a bit as long as the mouth is firing into the corner, but this will greatly lengthen the time delay settings on my receiver, which, I believe are limited to 25 ft. So having a coffed table that requires minimum time delay by positioning the mouth of the horn at my ankles will probably also reduce the power requirements a bit. the Tuba is a much more efficient horn, but according to Bill Fitzmaurice, the designer, it's a 25 Hz. cutoff since it's an 11 foot horn. Corner loading will make it to 20 Hz. I'm hoping the tapped horn makes it to 16 Hz without a corner, and with a bit of EQ and Highpass filtering. I don't want it that loud, but I do want it deep. My MWM clones do a reasonable job with movie content down to slightly blow 40 Hz as far as impact, but I want "subterranian" bass I can feel.

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Yes, a great job on the construction and finishing, well done!

I spent a few free hours going over the TubaHT plans yesterday trying to decide which size to build, overall size is not an issue because the room is a dedicated space and what ever I go with will be incorporated into the final layout. Originally I was going to build a ProSound LAB sub and that beast is 45x45x22.5 !!!

Bills comment on the bottom of the first page is what swayed me "Of course, if you have room for an 18 inch cab or wider and already have the appropriate twelve on hand by all means use it"...

I have 2 Eminence Labs 12 sub so I am leaning towards two 30" wide TubaHT's one for each side of the theatre screen.

See my plans above. I would build 2 of these, since it's only 4 sheets of plywood and very simple build to get your to way below 20 Hz. in a smaller box than the tuba. According to all the audio science, the ideal number of subs is 3 or 4 spread around the room to balance all the room modes, so 2 is better than one.

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Yes, a great job on the construction and finishing, well done!

I spent a few free hours going over the TubaHT plans yesterday trying to decide which size to build, overall size is not an issue because the room is a dedicated space and what ever I go with will be incorporated into the final layout. Originally I was going to build a ProSound LAB sub and that beast is 45x45x22.5 !!!

Bills comment on the bottom of the first page is what swayed me "Of course, if you have room for an 18 inch cab or wider and already have the appropriate twelve on hand by all means use it"...

I have 2 Eminence Labs 12 sub so I am leaning towards two 30" wide TubaHT's one for each side of the theatre screen.

See my plans above. I would build 2 of these, since it's only 4 sheets of plywood and very simple build to get your to way below 20 Hz. in a smaller box than the tuba. According to all the audio science, the ideal number of subs is 3 or 4 spread around the room to balance all the room modes, so 2 is better than one.

Thanks for posting the plan and for the feedback.

Hmmm, sounds interesting, they are big though! [;)] (says the guy with Klipschorns)

I wonder about the corner placement of the TUBA HT versus a pair of these, I was planning on a baffle wall for the front sound stage so I have to be careful about placing any speaker in front that needs to face the wall rather then out to the room (it seem that this may be the requirement of the Tuba HT?).

I would be interested in additional information on the tapped horn, pictures and some reports from those that have built 'this' one.

Thanks!

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If you guys want to get LOW,I don't understand why you're looking into horns. Just build an IB and be done with it. No big boxes in the listening area and useful output into the single digits. I sit 14' away from mine and have measured 110 dB (corrected) at 10Hz and 120 dB at 20 Hz. Horn subs are clean sounding and very efficient, but they get big fast when you're looking for the bottom octave.

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If you guys want to get LOW,I don't understand why you're looking into horns. Just build an IB and be done with it. No big boxes in the listening area and useful output into the single digits. I sit 14' away from mine and have measured 110 dB (corrected) at 10Hz and 120 dB at 20 Hz. Horn subs are clean sounding and very efficient, but they get big fast when you're looking for the bottom octave.

Hmmm, IB, for those less enlightened (me) why not provide just a bit more information then 2 letters?

At the risk of offending you, real assistance or enlightenment would be more detailed then "IB and why not..."

regards,

PS, Peter, sorry if this looks like a hijack of your thread, if CECAA850 responds with some informaton we can take it elsewhere and not discuss it in your thread.

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If you guys want to get LOW,I don't understand why you're looking into horns. Just build an IB and be done with it. No big boxes in the listening area and useful output into the single digits. I sit 14' away from mine and have measured 110 dB (corrected) at 10Hz and 120 dB at 20 Hz. Horn subs are clean sounding and very efficient, but they get big fast when you're looking for the bottom octave.

This is why Tom Danley, the king of bass, builds tapped horns for all of his subwoofers. It's about deeper in a smaller box, but CLEANER, not full of Harmonic distortion like all direct radiator subs. The Tuba is a good design, but the tapped horns go lower for a given box size. For any frequency range, it's the lengthh of the horn that counts, and this LITTLE BOX, which will be my coffee table is an 18 foot horn on the front side of the cone and a 36 foot hornn on the back side. It will cross at 40 Hz. and I will get 16-40 Hz. out of it. Michael Hurd of Canada showed me CD output down in the 16 Hz. range and played me his 18" super sub box with twin 18" passives and a 3,000 watt amplifier...........the walls were flexing and it sounded like the plane was crashing in the IndyKlipschFan's home theater playing the "Phoenix" DVD. He made his point clear to me.

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What he meant was an SB or sealed box. An IB is infinte baffle which means wall mounting to the outdoors. It's still direct radiator bass which is full of distortion and dynamic compression. All woofers start to thermally compress dynamics at 10% of their rated RMS power..........only horns can prevent this.

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