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A general question on Tube Amps


crd97086

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Today I removed the rectifier tube from my 300b amp immediately after I had just turned it off. I did this absent mindedly, fearing that doing such a thing could cause a problem. The problem is that the amp will not work now. I am assuming that removing the rectifier tube after just turning it off, or was it still on, could have blown the tube? Has anyone ever done what I did, and what was your outcome? Thanks in advance.

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Today I removed the rectifier tube from my 300b amp immediately after I had just turned it off. I did this absent mindedly, fearing that doing such a thing could cause a problem. The problem is that the amp will not work now. I am assuming that removing the rectifier tube after just turning it off, or was it still on, could have blown the tube? Has anyone ever done what I did, and what was your outcome? Thanks in advance.

When you say that the amp doesn't work, what do you mean? Is it totally dead? If the amp has a pilot light (i.e. power on indicator), does it work when you turn it on? When you turn it on, does the rectifier filament still glow, and does the 300B and tubes other tubes still glow?

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Today I removed the rectifier tube from my 300b amp immediately after I had just turned it off. I did this absent mindedly, fearing that doing such a thing could cause a problem. The problem is that the amp will not work now. I am assuming that removing the rectifier tube after just turning it off, or was it still on, could have blown the tube? Has anyone ever done what I did, and what was your outcome? Thanks in advance.

Put the rectifier back in.

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[:D]

Today I removed the rectifier tube from my 300b amp immediately after I had just turned it off. I did this absent mindedly, fearing that doing such a thing could cause a problem. The problem is that the amp will not work now. I am assuming that removing the rectifier tube after just turning it off, or was it still on, could have blown the tube? Has anyone ever done what I did, and what was your outcome? Thanks in advance.

Put the rectifier back in.

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Removing the rectifier tube immediately after shutting off the amp should not cause any problems at all. So, I'd say that since the tube is not lighting up, something happened to its filament which is coincidental (unless there's a bad connection to the tube socket which is causing the difficulty). I don't have any experience with the Chinese tubes, so I can't comment on their reliability; however, the US made 5Z3s were extremely robust tubes which could take an awful lot of punishment without failing. Since the Chinese version has an 8 pin octal base you, unfortunately, need to stay with the modern replacements. Putting in a new one should should fix your problem.

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So, I'd say that since the tube is not lighting up, something happened to its filament which is coincidental (unless there's a bad connection to the tube socket which is causing the difficulty).

Putting in a new one should should fix your problem.

I agree. Even though the rectifier may be robust, when the components inside are at working temperature, they may be a bit fragile. It's worth a try!

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I agree that the best way to trouble shoot this is to swap the rectifier for a known good tube. tubes sometimes get ruined when handled, it is rare but the filaments are delicate and, who knows, they were hot and you may have bumped or jarred the tube...it is highly unlikely that you did any damahe to the amp, so swap the tube and report back. tony

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good. one lesson learned about being a tube amp owner is it pays to have stored away some spare tubes. I have back ups for my drivers, rectifiers and output tubes...it means a significant investment (though my back up tubes are all Sovtek or EH to save money) but it is worth it for trouble shooting and keeping the music alive! regards, tony

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A 5Z3P.

It looks like that tube only uses four pins. Does it have the key on the center post or is it possible to put it in the socket incorrectly?

Bruce

The US made 5Z3 has a 4 pin base with 2 pins having a larger diameter than the others to prevent improper insertion. The 5Z3P seems to have an octal base.

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The US made 5Z3 has a 4 pin base with 2 pins having a larger diameter than the others to prevent improper insertion. The 5Z3P seems to have an octal base.

It looks like the 5Z3P is a Russian or Chinese equivalent of 5U4G, which is a very common US-made full-wave rectifier tube with eight-pin base.

--

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