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Replaced Dust Caps


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I am curious as to how to get a dust cap off that is not torn or pushed in without destoying it ?

You can get a dust cap off without damaging it. Tough part would be getting it back on. No matter how careful you are, once you cut it out you'd have to add material to the gap created by the cutting. Glue does gap-fill to an extent, but I wouldn't trust it enough.

I understand the desire to keep things original, but what do you want to do?

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I am curious as to how to get a dust cap off that is not torn or pushed in without destoying it ?

You can get a dust cap off without damaging it. Tough part would be getting it back on. No matter how careful you are, once you cut it out you'd have to add material to the gap created by the cutting. Glue does gap-fill to an extent, but I wouldn't trust it enough.

I understand the desire to keep things original, but what do you want to do?

I recently bought a set of Fortes from the original owner that were in pretty nice shape. When I went to look at them both dust covers were missing. When I asked what happened to them he said they fell off but he still had one. I looked at parts express but they didnt look the same at the base of the cover as it looked like there was more flat area than the one I have. Maybe you are supposed to trim to fit. I have a 15" woofer from a Cornwall that the rats chewed a hole in the paper cone but the dust cover is exactly what I have. I thought about removing it and using it to repair the passive but I did not want to destroy it getting it off. I have never repaired a speaker and just looking for advice.

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Michael Colter painted some K22s a few years ago. This link takes you to page 5, where there are some pics (not the best pics). Page 1 he tells the paint used. SEM for vinyl restoration. Worked great for those old, faded cones.

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/59999.aspx?PageIndex=5

(link opens in new window)

Bruce

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I thought about removing it and using it to repair the passive but I did not want to destroy it getting it off.

That should work fine. Don't be in a hurry when cutting along the glue line (pic 2 of this thread). It's better to do more back-and-forth sawing motion with the blade, instead of pressing the blade through. Some pressure is involved but it's mostly for steering/guiding the blade's direction.

Use a blade that is short in height, like the above two in this picture. It will be easier to turn while cutting. Or a scalpel, like JL Sargent suggested, would work even better. Talk about precision!

post-34666-1381966107849_thumb.jpg

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