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Gorm

Heresy Refinish / Rebuild

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I have recently aquired a pair of 1981 Heresys from eBay. Overall they were in sound condition, but needed to be restored. I decided to restore them to match my La Scalas (Same finish and stain)

I have decided to make the following modifications during the rebuild.

1. Removed the grill portion of the cabinet. I will be redoing the cabinets in the Decorator style. I still have the cane grills that it came with...I'm not sure they are worth anything to anyone though. They are in good condition, but do have stains.

2. Install a wide cross brace inside to better brace the cabinet and walls of the speaker.

3. Install sound dampener on the top and bottoms of the cabinet.

4. Seal the inside seems of the speaker with a caulk to create a better seal.

5. Line the walls, front and rear baffles with closed cell foam.

I will be using the following components in the cabinet.

1. CT125 Tweeters

2. K-55-V Mid (Soldered type version)

3. Crites Woofers

4. Crites Type E crossover.

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Quick video of the sound difference between a braced Heresy and a Non-braced Heresy.

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You might want to try adding a brace across the cabinet where the woofer meets the mid horn as this is the weakest point on the front baffle.I have attached a couple of links one shows some internal retro brace work on my H3 and the other discusses spider talk. Interestly I have found that three layes of 1/8 inch SAE rated F-11 acoustical felt over the spider and some dynamat on the basket struts inside and a 1/4 inch layer of F-11 inside the basket struts has an amazing impact upon the bass quality. These mods deeal with noises which smear detail which when removed have a dramatic affect upon how the bass sounds. There are a number of other mods that you can do to a Heresy but these are perhaps the best. I hope this is of interest. Best regards Moray James.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=438234

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=441379

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Wowza...thats a lot of bracing. I'm not sure I'm going to go that far. I will check on that front baffle. If i had dynamat type stuff onto the woofer I'll probably have to look into make sure that thing is braced well on the front. I think they style of bracing you did would be very hard on the Heresy 1 due to everything connecting from the inside instead of the outside like on yours.

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While it looks like a lot i'not really. Since this is a retro you want to be careful not to usse up a lot of cabinet volume this method does not use muc volume but provides a lot of bracing. You want to slit each panel in half to push the resonant frequency up one octave and you want to tie the panels tofether so that the walls cant fle out or in. You wan t to stiffen the baffle as muchas you can so woofer energy is dispersed into the cabinet structure away from the driver. The cross piece at the fop of the woofer is the most important as the baffle is weakest there. Front to back struts help a lot here. More could hace been added and would be worth while in a from the ground up build but you have to also consider retro damping inside the cabinet and what is shown here is a very good compromise. the H3 is about 85 % stuffed solid with high density fiberglass and you want the back wave to be able to enter into the cross section of the material not try to fire across it as there is a big difference in absorption in the two ways.These H3 can make bass and they are up on 20+ inch tall four post stands.I hope that this is of interest. Best regards Moray James.

PS: the brace work shown was done on a pair of H3, all the work was done through the woofer opening as both baffles are fixed in place. Working on a Heresy or an H2 would in fact be much easier to do. Make sure that your Heresy is 100% air tight.

post-46582-13819801101258_thumb.jpg

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I have some leftover large sheets of Owens Corning 703 boards laying around from my sound board insulation...would it be worth cutting some and putting it along the sides or back panel?

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very much so yes. I used a similar material though not so goog a quality ad the OC703. I used just under three sheets 2'x4'x1/2" thick in each cabinrt. You won't need that much of the 703 to do the dsmre job. If you have enough fill each cabinet 2/3's full with the cut edge of the material facing the driverI would lay a single inch layrt on the bottom top sides and back and that should about get you there. Hpw thick is the material that you have? Best regards Moray James.

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The sheets are 2" thick 2' x 4'...not sure if I wanna go crazy stuffing them though. Thats quite a bit your suggesting. [:D]

I was thinking more along the lines of along each wall top and bottom and then sides.

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given the sheet thickness I would not bother lining the walls with flat pieces I would stuff the box fully 2/3's with the sheet thickness facing the woofer. It seems like a lot of material butit should work bery well. I know most Heresy owners would not believe the bass I am getting from my H3 cabinets without actually hearing them. If you have the material you have very little to loose by trying You will have to work around the mid horn and build in a well for it to sit inside of.. Wsh I had a picture of mine to show you but I don't. Best regards Moray James.

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Excellent look bet you can't wait to get them done. what do you have in mind for grill if any, I have always liked the look of a fine mesh black metal grill on the woofer only and the horns nicely finished with matching sheen paint color of your choice. keep posting, best regards Moray James.

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No grills...It would conflict with my 1976-1978 Decorator Style that I'm going for. [:D]

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HDBLjpg.jpg

No grilles, huh? How about some industrial motorboards, like on this factory custom pair from January 1978?

Just a thought....

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HDBLjpg.jpg

No grilles, huh? How about some industrial motorboards, like on this factory custom pair from January 1978?

Just a thought....

Those are beautiful industrials. [Y]

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