angusruler Posted January 10, 2013 Share Posted January 10, 2013 i've neever bought anything from him, but i think he's the same guy i have in my "favorite sellers" on ebay. from time to time he really has some nice klipsch for sale......oh, and CONGRATS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBinLilRock Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 Welcome to the forum and congrats on the CW scores. They look very nice. On the mid scratchy sound at high volume, wonder if it could be an amp distortion artifact. don't know, just wondering. Getting the crossovers refereshed will essentially restore them to factory spec! They are definitely due for this TLC and the results will make you smile! I wondered about that. What leaned me away from that is when I A vs B the 83's vs the 87's, I didn't here it. The 87's were as clear as they could be. I also wondered if it only occurred when the amp was under the 4ohm load, but it did it when they 83's were playing by themselves (8ohm load)--but again this was only at extremely loud volumes (not I can't hear myself talk volume, but the crystal on the mantle might break volume) . I am excited about refreshing the crossovers. I got them back from BEC yesteday (wow, fast turn around--I shipped them on Monday). I will get em back in today after work (might have to sneak away a little early). I spent last night updating my speaker wire terminals. Since, I got the CWs, I've had all bare wire connections. I want to eliminate any weak link I may have. I also installed a new cartridge & stylus on my TT this morning. Tonight their shall be music-a-plenty [8][8] [] I will likely update the crossovers in the 87's in the near future (just because its going to bug me to death until I do it), but it will be a little while. I need to heal my financial wounds from December a little.[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBinLilRock Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Since you want to have them stacked, then try this...flip the ones on top upside down...so that the HF sections of each channel are nearest to each other in each channel...you may be very surprised at the change in what you hear! -Andy P.S. Look at the back of the 1983 Cornwalls...on the rear edge of the side panel at the top, if you see an "A" stamped into the edge, they were built by me. I left in September 1983, but I normally had enough cabinets built to last about a month or so before they got through final assembly and serial numbers were assigned to them. If there is a two-letter combination stamped in the spot I described and one of the letters is an "A" and the other letter is an "S" then Steve was helping me build that day. -Andy Yep, you built em. Looks like Steve did help you that day also "J" must have helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I'd always assumed that the initials were the two initials of the one guy who built them. So it was a two/three man operation on the assembly line? I'd like to hear a tale of what that was like. The 'R' on the driver indicates 'Factory Replacement' in the case of warranty repairs. I'd imagine that they'd give one free one, but if they got an 'R' unit returned they might question overdriving/clipping as reason for driver demise. Andy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I've got an "R" on both of my cabinets (back left) instead of the driver(s). But no other letters stamped in the wood anywhere. Must have been one burly guy buildin' those that day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Since you want to have them stacked, then try this...flip the ones on top upside down...so that the HF sections of each channel are nearest to each other in each channel...you may be very surprised at the change in what you hear! -Andy P.S. Look at the back of the 1983 Cornwalls...on the rear edge of the side panel at the top, if you see an "A" stamped into the edge, they were built by me. I left in September 1983, but I normally had enough cabinets built to last about a month or so before they got through final assembly and serial numbers were assigned to them. If there is a two-letter combination stamped in the spot I described and one of the letters is an "A" and the other letter is an "S" then Steve was helping me build that day. -Andy Yep, you built em. Looks like Steve did help you that day also "J" must have helped. Look on the other side for builder's/sander's initials. Those initials are "USA" (not JSA) meaning, built in the...... They are on every pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBinLilRock Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Since you want to have them stacked, then try this...flip the ones on top upside down...so that the HF sections of each channel are nearest to each other in each channel...you may be very surprised at the change in what you hear! -Andy P.S. Look at the back of the 1983 Cornwalls...on the rear edge of the side panel at the top, if you see an "A" stamped into the edge, they were built by me. I left in September 1983, but I normally had enough cabinets built to last about a month or so before they got through final assembly and serial numbers were assigned to them. If there is a two-letter combination stamped in the spot I described and one of the letters is an "A" and the other letter is an "S" then Steve was helping me build that day. -Andy Yep, you built em. Looks like Steve did help you that day also "J" must have helped. Look on the other side for builder's/sander's initials. Those initials are "USA" (not JSA) meaning, built in the...... They are on every pair. lol--USA duh[] Don't I feel smart. I will look on the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 those 83's look to have a applied finish to them... dual CW club FTW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I would not go this route myself but if I was I would disconnect one of the sets of mid and hi per channel, I would expect improved mid clairity from this. I would also experiment with using one of the sets as woofer only and position them into the room to see what result you can achieve. You never know stacked may be as good as it gets but if you don't try you don't know. You could also play with one set firing backwards and do a dipole. That should result in some impressive spatial effects. Have fun. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Ask Bob Crites to sell you some of the red rubber washers that fit inside the horn where the driver mounts so you have a nice tight seal. I wonder if you can also do this with a few wraps of plumber's teflon tape. Hmmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Skived teflon tape (reverse wound) on the driver threads is a very good idea and it works extremely well sealing the threads. The tape also works very well to keep the driver from working itself loose over time and is worth the effort time and small cost to use. But that is not the issue at hand here. There is a physical gap between the end of the threaded snout and the actual throat of the horn. This gap is meant to be bridged and sealed by means of a compressable hard rubber washer. When installed properly with only minimal compression the washer's inside surface should provide a flat smooth continuation between the snout and the throat of the horm. If the washer presents a buldge then the driver is turned in too many times (too tight) and is compressing the washer to the point of deformation. Neither should the washer protrude into the throat of the horn/snout in any way, the transition between the throat of the horn and the snout should be as smooth and seamless as is possible. Any discontinuance in the throat of the horn will result in reflections and turbulence which are not at all desirable. Hope this is of interest and helps. Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Excellent points sir. I've been installing the new washers as I work on speakers but never thought of teflon tape, and I have it around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.