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Need subwoofer input/suggestions


SuBXeRo

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The boxes look identical down to the weight haha. I'm only considering a prefabbed box because for me to create braces and do nice cutouts, i just dont have the capabilities for it to come out nice enough for home use haha. Car subwoofer box is a different story though. I'd take a chance on the PE combo and its actually cheaper to buy them combo then order drivers and box separately plus shipping if needed. Im sure the GF will have a ***-fit with 4 of them but thats OK. But im still torn, i want a projector now. http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/jsp/Product.do?sku=V11H373120&BV_UseBVCookie=yes this looks sexy!

+1 for a projector. You wont make a better upgrade in your ht. No matter how many subs, amps, speakers/upgrades, extra channels, better avrs. None of those things combined has the wow lasting movie experience you will get from a gaint screen.

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well, i wont have subs when i move my 7's out here from NJ so i need subs. And this Epson seems to be reasonably priced. I could get 2 less subs which means i could get a cheaper and get the projector too.

This is a picture of the actual living room with the current owners stuff in it. You can see the wall where all the equipment will be going. Its a living room/family room so its shared space and i'd have to get a retractable screen. That ceiling fan might be an issue too. As is, I don't think our plasma TV will fit in the recess so I will have to build something to extend the tv out on a wall mount of some sort, probably one with a movable arm. Running wires shouldn't be too bad since its attic above that is unfinished and cellulose blown insulation.

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and the PEWL!!!!!

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I recommend doing some reading on what your getting into to (its a lot to learn). Depending on the screen size and the placment of the projector some may not work as well or not work at all for what you want. Buying a projector is a liltte like buying a home all the top brands are nice but offer different vaule. So what one has you may not need vs one that has what you want or need.

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of what I have researched so far, I think that Epson will work. It is going to be strictly for movie watching. When I get into the house and the dust settles, then I can really decide what the deal will be with subs and then projector. I'll admit though, I am still a projector novice. I know I want something with more light output capabilities even though I suspect most movie usage will be at night versus during the day. Other than that, I don't want to spend much more than I would be for this and I don't need 3D. I just want to ensure its a minimum res of 1080p. I'd love to get a projector with more of a dynamic contrast but that really starts to get spendy.

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+1 for a projector. You wont make a better upgrade in your ht. No matter how many subs, amps, speakers/upgrades, extra channels, better avrs. None of those things combined has the wow lasting movie experience you will get from a gaint screen.

I agree with that. I think a projector has the biggest wow factor, next would be subs.
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This is exactly what I am gonna build. I have heard 8 18's on a 5000 watt proamp and it was the loudest, cleanest output I have heard to date.

Do you know which drivers he was using?

yes I do. They are the stereo integrity 18's. and he got most of his stuff from DIY group website. That's what I'm gonna shoot for. Although I have been reading a bit more into this LMS loaded horn. Although the 950$ driver isn't as intriguing to me as a 250$ lol
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Panasonic makes some excelent projectors at reasonable prices, but it's hard to see one operating in a store, because (I'm told) there is less of a profit margin with them than with several other brands.

If you are willing to travel to look at projectors in action, consider vacationing in the Los Angeles area. It's the place! And Panasonic has a theater showroom somewhere in Hollywood.

Manufacturers' specs as to light output are not necessarily reliable.

For good projection, total darkness is needed, IMO, except for the light that reflects off the screen onto the room walls and ceiling. Blackout shades are available, and retract when not being used. Real blackout shades are jet black on one side -- not gray -- and are completely opaque.

I recommend a Seymour acoustically transparent screen that descends electrically from the ceiling, if you are going to be 12 - 13 or more feet away so the texture doesn't show. Only your center channel speaker would be behind the screen, and can usually have its tweeter at exactly the same height as that of the left and right front speakers, rather than being below or above the screen. I understand that some people think that "acoustically transparent" is one of those terms like "clean coal," but the Seymour is pretty transparent. A Klipsch engineer measured one for one of the forum members, and concluded that EQ would not be necessary. We have Audyssey, which, if run with the screen down, does provide a little EQ. You may want to search the forum for Seymour. At least 3 forum members have one, including me. Ours is 130" wide, 2.35:1, and, as seen from 13 feet is very immersive. Seymour will send you a sample of their fabric to try out for light output and smoothness.

Seymour: www.seymourav.com

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Seymour are great screens (i love mine). Its nice to have everything behind the screen but for me i only went AT because i had to for the screen size i wanted. The extra cost of a good AT screen adds up fast. If you can fit a non AT screen in your room you will save a lot of money that you can use on other things (my screen cost around 2500). That room looks pretty big so you can probably save some money and get a really nice drop down for around 1500 non AT.

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i have been searching for a good outboard amp and i looked at qsc, crown and bheringer and alot of reviews say that they arent too awesome for sub duty and then i found a thread suggesting the dayton 1000 w amp. DUH i say to myself and its very affordable. I was thinking 4 of them, 1 for each sub.

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The Dayton amp has some reliablity problems. Mine went bad after 3 week and others have reported similar problems. I like the Crown amps XLS 2000 or 2500 and ordered a Berhinger INuke 3000 DSP. Scrappydue told me more about it for sub EQ and other features. This amp is $365.00 on Amazon. For 18 in subs, something stronger than the Dayton will give you 3-10 db improvement across the frequency band. I tried the Crown XLS 1500 and 2500 for a short trial. Two subs can go on the Crown or Berhinger and there is no need for 4 of them. Chase sells an MQ 600 which is a monster of an amp for $600.00. The MQ amp will hold 4 subs without a sweat Once the amp is purchased additonal subs get's very affordable.

I am suprised at how quick and responsive my 18 in subs are. The old stories of needing a smaller sub are, well just old. Sealed subs give up a little around 20 Hz but will not drop off like vented subs below their tunning point and can extend to the single digits. It is not unusal to get a pretty flat response to 15 Hz. Sealed sub can be corner loaded without a lot boomy bass to take advantage of room gain. The nice part about the sealed design is it's weight and size compared to a vented sub. This makes placement easier.

UPS lost the Berhinger so I have been running my 2 subs off my Carver cube amp which seems stronge than the Dayton amp. The Carver is a 7 in cube weighing less than 10 lbs, lol.[:|]

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That seems like a good choice SubXeRo. I am going to try the I Nuke 3000 DSP only because of the 20 Hz bass boost and for th EQ ability below 63 Hz that the Pioneer Elite dose not provide. I have a 6500 + open concept floor design room and even with the Dayton amp I could hit 120 db at the LP. The larger amp will benefit the low end of the system. In general a vented sub is better for HT but, in many blind subwoofer shootout, people could not tell a difference between vented and sealed subs. The stronger amp will allow you to knock down peaks and flatten the freqency response across the band and maintain a good low end.. I have also found the class D proamps to be quiet. I like the light weight of the Class D amps because I don't want to lug around all this heavy equipment any more, lol.

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A few months back i had a package delivered to the wrong house on the wrong street (had the right info on the package) luckily the person who got it brought it to me. I feel your pain

reference_head, I am just trying to get this bass thing right, I liked my other sub and was happy. I want eveythng like when I got the 7's, 64, SS 18.1 subs and the Pioneer avr, knowing that most other moves would be lateral since these are such great pieces of equpment to build a system around for me.

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