What would it take to build an F113?

[tigerwoodKhorns]

OK all you sub gurus, what would it take to build a few subs that perform as well as the JL F113?

Sealed box, no horns please. I have a room upstairs that cannot use a big box, but a few small boxes would work very well.

I have an extra QSC PLX, forget the model, but it is high power.

I know that the JL 13" W7 driver is very expensive and a 3 ohm driver. What driver compares to this at a lower price.

I am not lookign for max SPL, I am interested in the SQ of the Fathom.

Thanks.

Oh yea, selaed box, no horns please. (and don't tell me to buy Jubilees instead )

[CECAA850]

2 sealed boxes with one of THESE in each would sound great. Should get you where you need to go.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

2 sealed boxes with one of THESE in each would sound great. Should get you where you need to go.

$300 each, nice.

What options should I choose? Dual 2 ohm to get to 4 ohm, but what about the rest?

[jason str]

If you're looking for sound quality & smaller sealed box 2 of these in a cabinet will be hard to beat for the price.

Dayton 15

[CECAA850]

2 sealed boxes with one of THESE in each would sound great. Should get you where you need to go.

$300 each, nice.

What options should I choose? Dual 2 ohm to get to 4 ohm, but what about the rest?

Yes, dual 2 Ohm voice coils per driver would get you a 4 Ohm load per side. What amp do you have? Will it handle 2 Ohms per side?

When you say "the rest" are you referring to options?

[mustang guy]

That driver alone is $1,000. The TC 15Q1 has similar TS specs except for the xmax, which is half. Price $500.

Here is a sealed 1.9cu ft ID sub compared to a fathom 113 at 2.5cu ft ID.

edit: I seriously doubt this sub would sound as good as the Fathom. They have real engineers and spend tons on R&D. The best thing to do is buy a JL driver and amp and build an enclosure. I bet that glossy thing they encase it in cost ya half the price of the overall sub.

Edited January 28, 2014 by mustang guy

[mustang guy]

The Dayton HF would work, but would require about a 4.5cu ft sealed enclosure.

[jason str]

There are better options but its not going to be cheap.

[holtrp]

Just buy my jl!

[CECAA850]

The Dayton HF would work, but would require about a 4.5cu ft sealed enclosure.

The web site shows 2.88 cu ft. The larger the box, the easier it is to bottom it out. The Ficaraudio one will take a smaller box and more wattage. The Q series is noted for it's SQ.

Granted neither will be a JL, but dual Q's would sound really nice. I had a 10" Q in a sealed box in my car. It would hit unbelievably hard and sounded fantastic.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

Thanks for the info.

I do not expect it to be cheap. But I am trying to see if a high quality driver like the Fi that Carl suggested would do the trick.

I see used W7 drivers pop up on craigslist all of the time, but I am assuming that they were all installed in a subcompact car and have had hard lives terrorizing folks at stop lights.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

The Dayton HF would work, but would require about a 4.5cu ft sealed enclosure.

The web site shows 2.88 cu ft. The larger the box, the easier it is to bottom it out. The Ficaraudio one will take a smaller box and more wattage. The Q series is noted for it's SQ.

Granted neither will be a JL, but dual Q's would sound really nice. I had a 10" Q in a sealed box in my car. It would hit unbelievably hard and sounded fantastic.

How much wattage will it take?

I have a QSC 2404, so it is 700 wpc at 4 ohms 20 to 20. The 2 ohm rating is at 1 khz so I will ignore it.

A Behringer I nuke may do the trick. I don't know.

[CECAA850]

A couple of flat pack boxes like THESE and you'd be up and running in no time. You'd need to check and see if the Fi drivers would fit the cut out and work with 3 cu ft. 2 e-mails should get you all the info you'd need.

[CECAA850]

The Q is rated at 1500 watts. You might check into the high QTS option as you're going sealed.

[CECAA850]

Here's a Q10

EDIT, I forgot I couldn't upload from my computer any more as I'm over the limit.

Edited January 28, 2014 by CECAA850

[tigerwoodKhorns]

A couple of flat pack boxes like THESE and you'd be up and running in no time. You'd need to check and see if the Fi drivers would fit the cut out and work with 3 cu ft. 2 e-mails should get you all the info you'd need.

That is a good deal but I will probably have to custom build.

What started this is a forum member had recommended two subwoofers for more even bass. I do not want two F113's sitting out in the room, but custom built in subs will work.

Anyone here want to share their experiance with usign two woofers, not for max SPL but to even out the room.

[mustang guy]

The Dayton HF would work, but would require about a 4.5cu ft sealed enclosure.

The web site shows 2.88 cu ft. The larger the box, the easier it is to bottom it out. The Ficaraudio one will take a smaller box and more wattage. The Q series is noted for it's SQ.

Granted neither will be a JL, but dual Q's would sound really nice. I had a 10" Q in a sealed box in my car. It would hit unbelievably hard and sounded fantastic.

I understand that. I plugged that number into WinISD, and could not get the response needed to compete with the Fathom. I increased the box size until I got something with similar response.

[CECAA850]

The Dayton HF would work, but would require about a 4.5cu ft sealed enclosure.

The web site shows 2.88 cu ft. The larger the box, the easier it is to bottom it out. The Ficaraudio one will take a smaller box and more wattage. The Q series is noted for it's SQ.

Granted neither will be a JL, but dual Q's would sound really nice. I had a 10" Q in a sealed box in my car. It would hit unbelievably hard and sounded fantastic.

I understand that. I plugged that number into WinISD, and could not get the response needed to compete with the Fathom. I increased the box size until I got something with similar response.

X max doesn't look right on the Fi.

[Scrappydue]

Thanks for the info.

I do not expect it to be cheap. But I am trying to see if a high quality driver like the Fi that Carl suggested would do the trick.

I see used W7 drivers pop up on craigslist all of the time, but I am assuming that they were all installed in a subcompact car and have had hard lives terrorizing folks at stop lights.

just so we are clear here the w7 driver they sell is not the same as the driver used in the fathom or Gotham. Look it up. Otherwise who the heck would pay their prices. A w7 in a nice box and a good amp can be had for 1000-1300$ and have full eq capability. You'll see when you search the drivers are different.

[mustang guy]

Thanks for the info.

I do not expect it to be cheap. But I am trying to see if a high quality driver like the Fi that Carl suggested would do the trick.

I see used W7 drivers pop up on craigslist all of the time, but I am assuming that they were all installed in a subcompact car and have had hard lives terrorizing folks at stop lights.

just so we are clear here the w7 driver they sell is not the same as the driver used in the fathom or Gotham. Look it up. Otherwise who the heck would pay their prices. A w7 in a nice box and a good amp can be had for 1000-1300$ and have full eq capability. You'll see when you search the drivers are different.

Good to know. It is probably a derivative however. Given the size of the enclosure and that it is sealed tells me they are probably using some bass boost like a Linkwitz Transform down in the 15-18hz reqion. I set WinISD at 15(manually) - 38.03hz (automatically) for the above curve to closely resemble the F113.

The price I found on the w7 was $1,000 alone. Doesn't leave a lot of shopping money for a good amp and box. I think I can actually get it for less from my neighbors who are a JL dealer, but I have actually never tried. When I buy JL subs, they are usually priced with an entire system.

It also doesn't mean you can't build a great HT sub with the W7 even if it isn't the same exact driver.

Somebody should call JL and find out how much a replacement plate amp and a replacement driver is for a Fathom F113. That would settle that!

The Dayton HF would work, but would require about a 4.5cu ft sealed enclosure.

The web site shows 2.88 cu ft. The larger the box, the easier it is to bottom it out...

I understand that. I plugged that number into WinISD, and could not get the response needed to compete with the Fathom. I increased the box size until I got something with similar response.

X max doesn't look right on the Fi.

?

Edited January 29, 2014 by mustang guy