tigerwoodKhorns Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 just so we are clear here the w7 driver they sell is not the same as the driver used in the fathom or Gotham. Look it up. Otherwise who the heck would pay their prices. A w7 in a nice box and a good amp can be had for 1000-1300$ and have full eq capability. You'll see when you search the drivers are different. Good point, I had looked it up a long time ago and I just remembered that it was a W7 and 3 ohms. It is the 13 W7 AE, about $1000 on Amazon. So my question is what driver will perform as well or close for less? Is there a $500 Fi driver that will do the trick? Looking around, I can also go larger on the enclosure than the JL if I do a few built ins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 You'd need to find power handling, x-max and efficiency numbers on the JL driver and try to find something comparable. TS parameters would be good also. I have no idea what those numbers are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 You can use Hoffmans iron law to your advantage. Go with a bigger driver and bigger box. The driver and amp would be cheaper than trying to get the same performance out of a smaller driver like the JL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) From what I (haven't) found, TS parameters may be hard to come by for the JL. Either that or I just don't know where to look. They boast a peak to peak (x mech) measurement of 4". Do they round off? I don't know. That would be about 101mm of throw or 50.5mm x mech. X max would be less. THIS driver has 33 mm of x max and will take 3000 watts. It's also a 15" driver as opposed to a 13. I'll bet it displaces close to as much (maybe more?) than the JL. If you can find actual specs we could compare apples to apples. 3kW on each of 2 drivers would be pretty nasty. Edited January 29, 2014 by CECAA850 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Wow, thanks for all of the info Carl. Let me change this a little. What would it take to get really tight fast bass like the JL F113? The second I hooked it up and listened it was an "ah ha" moment. I really love this sub. The Fi drivers that you linked to on the previous page look like they might do the trick. Their website says that the Q series are built for SQ. I think they are local, they should have something built that I can go listen to. Maybe there are other drivers built for SQ that wil lperform well. Looking at my room, I have a few spots where I can do large built in subs along the front. I also have areas in the sides and rear where I can build in slim smaller subs. I am designing arcitectural elements and can make this work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 OMG, if you're local to Ficaraudio, go bend Scott's ear. He'll answer all your questions infinitely better than I can. I'm jealous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japosey Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Look into the Image Dynamics IDMax subs. You can find them on discount at Sonicelectronix and it is an equal performer to the JL W7 in both output and sound quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc6849 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 I've read good things about this one on AVS and Home Theater Shack: http://tcsounds.com/product/drivers/lms-ultra-5400/ I also think these are the passive radiators folks use with it: http://www.parts-express.com/tc-sounds-vmp-18-passive-radiator--293-684 If you search the web, there's a couple threads of folks who've made these using two of the passive radiators and one LMS 5400. I wouldn't mind having two of those subs, but I don't have the space. This 2500w plate amp looks promising too: http://tcsounds.com/products-2/products-amps/ , but it's not out yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc6849 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/subwoofer-tests-archived/8156-diy-tc-sounds-lms-5400-18-2x18-page-ranking-200l.html http://www.avsforum.com/t/1338760/funky-waves-18-lms-5400-2-pr-build This build also looked neat: http://www.avsforum.com/t/989681/tc-lms5400-18-build-thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japosey Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 IDMax http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/id-max.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 IDMax http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/id-max.html They certainly look impressive. When I get around to doing this, I think that I need to go see the guys at Fi Audio first because they are local. With my room layout, if I follow the subwoofer research done by Harmon, I should use one centered in front, one centered in the rear and two centered on each side of the room. Looks like I will need 3 shallow depth subwoofers for the sides and rear. (6" deep walls so I should be able to build boxes in the walls that work) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holtrp Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 I had two IDQ 15" subs in the back of a extended cab toyota tacoma for a while off a MMATS amp. They make excellent subs and I wish I didn't get rid of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 You have owned both the JL and the IDQ. How did they compare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 IDMax http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/id-max.html They certainly look impressive. When I get around to doing this, I think that I need to go see the guys at Fi Audio first because they are local. With my room layout, if I follow the subwoofer research done by Harmon, I should use one centered in front, one centered in the rear and two centered on each side of the room. Looks like I will need 3 shallow depth subwoofers for the sides and rear. (6" deep walls so I should be able to build boxes in the walls that work) That would be perfect. I'd make all 4 boxes the same however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japosey Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 The IDMax and JL W7 are very similar in performance. I think one is better in some measurements and the other in others. I recommended the ID because, you should be able to get a IDMax cheaper. The company is no longer owned by the original owners which designed the sub. So, the company has lost a little love from the people in the industry. The sub is great though. I actually have owned a lot of home audio subs and car audio subs. The W7 and IDMax can be used and excel in both environments. I use Velodyne HGS and F Series in my home and JL in one vehicle and an ID in another. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japosey Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 One other option is you might consider the JL 12W6. You can get them for a $200-$300 less than the W7 and really the only difference between the two is the power handling. JL recommends the W6 for 500 watts rms or less and the W7 for over 500 watts rms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Svs sb13 ultra has a 13.5" driver that's looks really close to the jl. It's a small sealed sub and runs around 1500 with a 1000 watt amp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Svs sb13 ultra has a 13.5" driver that's looks really close to the jl. It's a small sealed sub and runs around 1500 with a 1000 watt amp Thanks but if I was to buy another turn key sub I would just match my JL. I am looking at something that I can build in to the room. One other option is you might consider the JL 12W6. You can get them for a $200-$300 less than the W7 and really the only difference between the two is the power handling. JL recommends the W6 for 500 watts rms or less and the W7 for over 500 watts rms. Are the subs with the AE designation different? JL makes a 13 W7 AE that is used in the Fathom. I think that the W7-AE is different than a W7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Svs sb13 ultra has a 13.5" driver that's looks really close to the jl. It's a small sealed sub and runs around 1500 with a 1000 watt amp Thanks but if I was to buy another turn key sub I would just match my JL. I am looking at something that I can build in to the room. One other option is you might consider the JL 12W6. You can get them for a $200-$300 less than the W7 and really the only difference between the two is the power handling. JL recommends the W6 for 500 watts rms or less and the W7 for over 500 watts rms. Are the subs with the AE designation different? JL makes a 13 W7 AE that is used in the Fathom. I think that the W7-AE is different than a W7. Ok np. The output is close but the price is not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexg5775 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 (edited) As far as i know the difference with the w7 and w7AE is purely cosmetic. http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-subwoofer-drivers-w7ae What exactly is your budget? How much space do you have for enclosure? The w7 is a GREAT subwoofer. However what you get for what you pay i personally dont think it is worth it. You have more options with same performance for less $. IDMAX great sq sub. FI sub never played with. Dayton subs are great and very cost effective. If you have the space this would be a great option. LMS ultra another great option but also close to 1000$ I personally like stereointegrity. http://stereointegrity.com/index.php?id=57 Check out there HT subs. Go dual subs, 15" or 18" whatever you can fit and i think it is your best bang for your buck. Cant be beat in sheer sq, spl, low end extension for $, IMO. If you have the space the 24" sub is another option Good luck, Alex Edited February 7, 2014 by alexg5775 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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