DizRotus Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Please share any successes or failures at polishing out scratches from acrylic dust covers. I'm thinking those kits for polishing auto headlights, toothpaste or other techniques should work. I want to remove surface scratches from a Technics SL1500 dust cover. Before I experiment, I'd like to plumb the collective experience and wisdom of this group. I tried a search without success. Edited March 23, 2014 by DizRotus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) We use micromesh on aircraft transparencies, up to grits in the thousands Edited March 23, 2014 by USNRET Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 We use micromesh on aircraft transparencies, up to grits in the thousands Thanks USNRET, What is micromesh and where would one go to get it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) micro-surface.com is one source We get it thru the DOD supply system and use the term generically. Edited March 23, 2014 by USNRET 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 micro-surface.com is one source We get it thru the DOD supply system and use the term generically. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 I remember reading years ago to use a combination of Pledge and Windex together with a buffer for light surface scratches. I tried it on a foggy looking Sansui dustcover and it worked pretty well. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) Scratches require something to cut the surface... begin at a very fine grit and go higher to desired level of finish. You can use auto finish polish as long as it is fine grit. That is what I used with great results on my lexan in my car and on plexi glass on my picture frames. Neither of which is acrylic, but neither is acetate. Edited March 23, 2014 by Schu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstrickland1 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 I use a product called "Flitz" for various things around the boat such as einenglass curtains and polycarbonate hatches, etc. It also works great on stainless, aluminum and other surfaces. I tried it on the dustcover of a Pioneer PL 530 and when used with the "Flitz Ball" it turned out very good. The flitz ball goes in a drill and is basically a buffer. Give it a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Be very careful of heat if you do use a power system over hand buffed. The heat build up can melt the surface very easy, specially on softer materials Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstrickland1 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 that's the great thing about the flitz ball. Eisenglass is MUCH more delicate than a turntable dustcover but the ball allows air to circulate and will not burn. It's not like a wool compounding pad, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Great suggestions. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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