DizRotus Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 (edited) I built a pair of the tapped horn subs CECAA850 referenced in his thread "25Hz Tapped Horn" https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/138019-25hz-tapped-horn/The designer of the sub recommends a 25 Hz HPF to protect the driver. He personally uses an Inuke NU1000DSP to power his sub.Does anyone have experience with the 1000DSP, or DSP in general, to power subs? Edited May 13, 2014 by DizRotus 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I power my pair with a inuke 3000 dsp. Although overkill when I bought it price was only like 30$ more than the 1000dsp. The good thing about the inuke is you can set 25hz filter at 48 db slope as well as a limiter at 99.6 watts and you can run them as hard as you want and the amp will not allow them to be torn up. Only bad thing about the inuke is the fan noise. I have had my inukes for a while now and just now ordered fans to try the fan mod. Should be here tomorrow I will let you know how they work out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I did a mod for one of my I Nukes. Very easy to do and relatively cheap. A 24 or 48 db slope should work well with limiters engaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 "Only bad thing about the inuke is the fan noise. I have had my inukes for a while now and just now ordered fans to try the fan mod. Should be here tomorrow I will let you know how they work out." I'm curious about the fan mod and how it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 (edited) My friend recommended a few fans to me ranging from 8-17$. I bought the highest cause he said they were the absolute best. Snip the red and black wire from old fan. Splice in new fan. Verify it worked before I put everything back together. 15 minutes per fan. Amps are SILENT now. Edited May 10, 2014 by Scrappydue 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 My friend recommended a few fans to me ranging from 8-17$. I bought the highest cause he said they were the absolute best. Snip the red and black wire from old fan. Splice in new fan. Verify it worked before I put everything back together. 15 minutes per fan. Amps are SILENT now. That sounds like good advice. I wonder why these manufacturers don't use low db high efficiency fans in their designs. It probably tends to limit their demographic to folks who play loud enough to not care, or folks who keep power equipment in a separate room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 That sounds like good advice. I wonder why these manufacturers don't use low db high efficiency fans in their designs The stock fans are louder primarily because they're moving more air than the replacements. You can do so much with blade design to quiet them but I think the noise is more a product of the CFM they're putting out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 CMF? I can't think of what that stands for. The odd thing, the Berhinger I Nuke amps don't get hot to have the loud fans in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Cubic Feet per Minute Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 That sounds like good advice. I wonder why these manufacturers don't use low db high efficiency fans in their designs The stock fans are louder primarily because they're moving more air than the replacements. You can do so much with blade design to quiet them but I think the noise is more a product of the CFM they're putting out. It stands to reason, then, that changing to a quieter fan without regard to it's volume is altering the cooling ability of the original design. Perhaps it would be better to replace a noisy fan with a heat sensitive variable fan with the same potential output. In an air conditioned room, the cooling is going to be far more effective. Outdoors on a hot day like a summer concert or outdoor party, I wonder if damage could occur? Perhaps those companies should design with higher heat tolerances and more efficient heat sinks so they can use lower volume fans. Perhaps the fans should be in the back or middle of all of these servers and pro gear. Heat sinks forward of the fans would get ambient room air pulled over them, and sinks after the fan would get air blown over them. nesting the fan, or placing it in the rear would insulate noise by virtue of position and directions of the sounds. I have had many rack server systems, and they operate on much the same principal. I still have a Proliant 2U that when it first comes on sounds like the deck of the USS Nimitz. After post, things quiet down a lot. The reason the fans are so noisy is they are so powerful for their size. Cooling takes place from front to back, with no side or top heat dissipation at all. With a full rack of servers, even at idle, the noise is intolerable for any length of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Changing a cooling fan for home use isn't as bad as it seems. The amps aren't worked nearly as hard as they are in a live venue and they don't create as much heat. For subwoofer duty in a home environment, the amps are mostly just loafing along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I hadn't thought of that. Nobody uses these amps for normal speakers, they are sub amps in homes. Good point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 The I Nuke amps are class D amps and really never hot. I did my fan mod with a fan from Parts Express. The Replacement fan was between 4 and 5 dollars. I brought two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatever55 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Another question... I would like to use this in a 2 channel system and have no LFE output from my preamp. Can this sum the left and right like a Dayton plate amp from PE, without bridging the outputs ? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Another question... I would like to use this in a 2 channel system and have no LFE output from my preamp. Can this sum the left and right like a Dayton plate amp from PE, without bridging the outputs ? Thanks I guess I don't understand the wording of the question. Are you using the pro amp to power the 2 speakers? Are you wanting to use the pro amp for a sub in a 2.1 configuration? There's no LFE channel in 2 channel. Are you making a 2.1 HT set up? What is your source/preamp/amp set up now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 (edited) Are you using line level or speaker level inputs on the amp. You should be able to configure the system for a mono signal either way. But, since this is a 2.1 system, the amp can also be used in a stereo configuration and should still sound good. You don't need all the power from a bridge mode. Take the easy route. Edited June 6, 2014 by derrickdj1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatever55 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Another question... I would like to use this in a 2 channel system and have no LFE output from my preamp. Can this sum the left and right like a Dayton plate amp from PE, without bridging the outputs ? Thanks I guess I don't understand the wording of the question. Are you using the pro amp to power the 2 speakers? One THT Are you wanting to use the pro amp for a sub in a 2.1 configuration? Yes There's no LFE channel in 2 channel. Are you making a 2.1 HT set up? Just 2 channel with a sub. What is your source/preamp/amp set up now? Preamp has only 2ch outputs. Currently run to a sub with built in amp and a left and right input internally summing for the sub Just want to know if the I nuke with dsp will do the same. Take the left and right and sum it for an output to one speaker ( the sub). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 From the owners manual: BRIDGE mode combines the signals from Inputs A and B into a blended mono signal and then routes the resulting mono signal through a single chain of DSP modules, leading to a combined mono output. The mono output signal is identical at Outputs A and B, and the amplifier responds to a single combined speaker load. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 BRIDGE mode combines the signals from Inputs A and B into a blended mono signal and then routes the resulting mono signal through a single chain of DSP modules, leading to a combined mono output. The mono output signal is identical at Outputs A and B, and the amplifier responds to a single combined speaker load. I ran into a problem with that statement on the I Nuke 3000. The output was not equal. Channel A and input A on the amp delivered the most power. I had around 3 or 4 conversation with Berhinger and they advised me to just use Channel A . It may be different using all pro gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whatever55 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 From the owners manual: BRIDGE mode combines the signals from Inputs A and B into a blended mono signal and then routes the resulting mono signal through a single chain of DSP modules, leading to a combined mono output. The mono output signal is identical at Outputs A and B, So you can connect one speaker to A and another to B and the amplifier responds to a single combined speaker load. To me this reads like you can connect only one speaker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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