babadono Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 I think since you are using tube amplification you should get an active crossover that changes the signal from analog to digital and back again as many times as possible and has more computing horsepower than the Apollo moon rocket and Space Shuttle combined. This would be the purist's approach. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted June 11, 2014 Author Share Posted June 11, 2014 With an average of about 107 sensitivity and the watts they are capable of handling you will never be doing more than starting to warm them up at almost idle. That is the a great thing about pro stuff, the rated distortion at the power you will use is at a small fraction of the specified distortion at full tilt, if a speaker rarely gets above idle there is no strain, it produces the sound with ease effortlessly . My tuber is 70, till I flip the triode mode, so far I have not even tried that. cannot go more than , maybe 30 watts and im hurtin in here. After this concert afternoon is over I will be breaking things in with some extream high wattage with AC/DC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joessportster Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 marshand for sound quality 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 As of today the Criteria of "The Crossover" design has changed, but not the Duggans payoff. it just got a little simpler. Here is what iv been playing with the last few days, the wife had her old set of crossovers from the Khorns, I scabbed in just the lower filter network only. In the Mid section I found a huge two way network that drives Mids and tweet horn. So knowing this, for the time being a low pass filter network seems to solve current issues. effectively I have a 3 way system feed as this stands. My question to you gents would be the design of this low pass, something like it is now, but newer and up to date. 350Hz/450Hz range The reason im holding off on active crossovers at this time is, with this low pass scabbed in, I cannot get much more than 1/4 volume cranked, feels like four stacks of Scalas, that clear, crisp and room filling. the perfect speaker for the size of the room has been dialed in. with one 70 wpc amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Just to clarify... Looks like you are using a stock Klipsch 2nd order low pass to the bass. Are you sending all frequencies to the mids and highs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Just to clarify... Looks like you are using a stock Klipsch 2nd order low pass to the bass. Are you sending all frequencies to the mids and highs? The mid box has a two way built into and feeds the tweet, you feed the mid box right off the amp. I split the feed from the amp and am feeding the low pass with that. seems to work flawlessly, just 30+ year old network though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Ah...didn't know about the passive. Are you sure it has a band pass to the Mid? Hopefully you hear nothing if you disconnect the bass and pass a 100Hz tone to the mid/high. Sorry for the questions. If there is a band pass, the bass passive will need to complement it. Sounds like a fun project . Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Ah...didn't know about the passive. Are you sure it has a band pass to the Mid? Hopefully you hear nothing if you disconnect the bass and pass a 100Hz tone to the mid/high. Sorry for the questions. If there is a band pass, the bass passive will need to complement it. Sounds like a fun project . Mike Great idea, I have the tone gen set, will do asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmpDoctor Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I will look into my old sub specs and get back to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joessportster Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Get a marschand XM 9, hook up a solid state to the bass and use your tube on the mids and highs.....................you will be done at that point, the marschand is dead quiet, infinitely adjustable, and will resale for all your money when you are done I have used three different marshand and all were excellent, and I got all my money back upon resale Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 The Crown XLS series have a built in adjustable crossover and would be a good choice for powering your bass bins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Oh...please be careful with the low freq test. If there is no band pass, you will be stressing the mid driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Oh...please be careful with the low freq test. If there is no band pass, you will be stressing the mid driver. The mid box is a separate unit on top of the bass box, determined no need to test anything. Im looking at four 15" subs to feed from the amp, what i see working so far is this low pass network out of the wifes Khorns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted June 13, 2014 Author Share Posted June 13, 2014 Fired off an email to Crites to pick up some caps to play with, as good as these are sounding with 140 combined uF @100volts, going to build a new low pass network with new parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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