Guest Steven1963 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I'm not sure what you mean by sealed. There is no silicon around it. There is a hole beneath the connection and one of the speakers is labeled "tweeter volume" or something to that affect. Apparently there used to be some sort of knob there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I'm already thinking of restoration ideas - such as mounting the horn in the space above the woofer and making the lens more easily removed. Probably going to have the network looked at. I'm open to some ideas if anyone is interested in giving input as to what they would do with them if they had them. Interesting... Removing the midrange horn lens (but not the midrange horn) will significantly increase midrange beaming and you will lose most of the midrange coverage horizontally. That lens performs a significant job. If you remount the midrange to the cabinet, I'd recommend retaining the lens, but letting it stick out in front just enough to touch the cabinet baffle at the back of the lens. Then the tweeter would be time-aligned when positioned just above the midrange compression driver (the "Gauss Loudspeaker" device) in line with the front face seal to the tweeter's "baby cheek" horn. In-room stereo imaging should explode when you do this. You could also invest in K510 horns and perhaps better 2" compression drivers as a longer range plan to have even better midrange performance in a much smaller package that would fit inside the cabinets. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Oh yes, I'm leaving the lens on and I do appreciate the affect it has on the sound, but having a way to remove it easily from outside the cabinet would be a goal of the redesign. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I'm not sure what you mean by sealed. There is no silicon around it. There is a hole beneath the connection and one of the speakers is labeled "tweeter volume" or something to that affect. Apparently there used to be some sort of knob there. Carl means you have a big air leak with those holes in the terminal cup. It looks like common binding posts will work in those two holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Oh yeah there have definitely been some modifications on the back panel. Woofer connections near the top, then a hole near the top/center, then a couple holes towards the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 You should ask Todd Crane ... He hasn't been on here for over a year. Does anyone know the facebook page for FUG? Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I'm thinkin' piano gloss black and the lens painted candy apple red, with just the outer edge of each of the fins painted black. How do you think that would look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 (edited) You should ask Todd Crane ...He hasn't been on here for over a year. Does anyone know the facebook page for FUG? Bruce I've been on the FB page but I didn't dig deep. I need to, because I would like more information on these speakers...not a lot out there other than specs and a quick blog on one of the other audio forums. They appear to be a little rare. Edited June 5, 2015 by Steven1963 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I'm pretty sure these were a later design, after Jack Frazier passed away and the new company took over.Still ought to be more info somewhere. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Steven1963 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Well Hopefully I can get Dave Mallette to pop in here. Maybe he can give me some background. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Definitely read through the Klipsch FUG thread. A lot of ground was covered there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MZernial Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Steve, Here are some pic's of mine I believe they are OG from factory w/wood horns and drvers. I belive the HF driver is a Altec 807 I think I have the crossover schematic if you are interested. I was thinking about painting my High Gloss Porsche Red! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Does anyone know the facebook page for FUG? -Bruce Search on the Frazier Users Group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/584410888260783/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Steve, Here are some pic's of mine I believe they are OG from factory w/wood horns and drvers. I belive the HF driver is a Altec 807 I think I have the crossover schematic if you are interested. I was thinking about painting my High Gloss Porsche Red! Mark Please do post the schematics I am sure there is interest past myself. I am shocked to see how closely the slot vent butt up against the rear baffle not what you want for any reflex vent I expect that with a long slot vent you are cut much more slack than if you fired a 4" ID tube vent at a baffle that close it would not work at all well. Any idea who the woofer manufacturer was? Best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Steve, Here are some pic's of mine I believe they are OG from factory w/wood horns and drvers. I belive the HF driver is a Altec 807 I think I have the crossover schematic if you are interested. I was thinking about painting my High Gloss Porsche Red! Mark I rather like the Theater gray color it was for a reason and you can make some nice combinations see Volvotreter's home brew horns Gray and deep yellow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 (edited) I am shocked to see how closely the slot vent butt up against the rear baffle not what you want for any reflex vent I expect that with a long slot vent you are cut much more slack than if you fired a 4" ID tube vent at a baffle that close it would not work at all well. Maybe this is why Frazier didn't call it reflex. Typically used the term Helmholtz resonator (reflex, what is the difference?)- maybe marketing, maybe not. I had a set of Mark Va's that I had rebuilt into Sevens for years. Great speakers. Frazier must have really loved that 12" since they put it in a ton of speakers. This guy is a little different animal. The 12" they used in the Texan and others had an Alnico slug with a 5 lb magnet structure. Not enclosed in a can. Edited June 6, 2015 by pzannucci Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 I am shocked to see how closely the slot vent butt up against the rear baffle not what you want for any reflex vent I expect that with a long slot vent you are cut much more slack than if you fired a 4" ID tube vent at a baffle that close it would not work at all well. Maybe this is why Frazier didn't call it reflex. Typically used the term Helmholtz resonator (reflex, what is the difference?)- maybe marketing, maybe not. I had a set of Mark Va's that I had rebuilt into Sevens for years. Great speakers. Frazier must have really loved that 12" since they put it in a ton of speakers. This guy is a little different animal. The 12" they used in the Texan and others had an Alnico slug with a 5 lb magnet structure. Not enclosed in a can. I have never seen any studies done on slot reflex vents which are perhaps most famously used in the Onken cabinet design. The slot vent uese physical air resistance to its advantage and is a distributed system so air motion will be reduced over that of a conventional venting system but by how much I don't know. I can say that in any of the Onken designs you won't see a vent termination anywhere near what we see in the X-15 design. so I expect that in all likelihood that there is room for improvement in either tuning frequency and or in cone motion at resonance.That the design was a success I think is obvious but that does not mean that it was or is an optimized design. If you have anymore information on the woofer used perhaps you could post it? Thanks and best regards Moray James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 "I have never seen any studies done on slot reflex vents which are perhaps most famously used in the Onken cabinet design." The Jensen Ultraflex did it first (by several decades, 1956). " The slot vent uese physical air resistance to its advantage and is a distributed system so air motion will be reduced over that of a conventional venting system but by how much I don't know." Reducing total vent air motion reduces output, and increases woofer motion. In any system I design, I make the vents as large as possible to avoid power compression and noise. This is what the large vents are about, trying to keep the vent velocity low enough to avoid 'chiffing' sounds. Some of the so-called Onken boxes had folded vents. Vents so long they wouldn't fit in the box without folding. Old Audax plans, note the 45° end treatment. Later the original Jensen Bass Ultraflex drawings were changed by the Japanese audio engineer and ONKEN company founder Eijiro Koizumi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 (edited) Dennis: thank you for posting I always know that when you post there will be something to learn, I did not know about the Jensen. Both cabinet examples that you show have vent closer to reflective surfaces than I have seen but both show the vent termination which very much different from the X-15. In the X15 the vent would appear to be firing directly square on to the rear baffle with a distance of no more than an inch perhaps an inch and a half. That has to have a dramatic impact upon the functioning of the vent reflex action. Have you run across any design articles which describe the design and tuning of a slot reflex vents? Also I have been going under the impression that a slot reflex vent loads over a wider band (3-4 Hz wider) than a conventional reflex vent tube does, I have guessed that the greater resistive component of the slot reflex may responsible for this, but I don't know. Any additional information woulds be useful. Thanks best regards Moray James. Edited June 7, 2015 by moray james 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Looking at the 3/4" or so cleat that would hold the back in combination with the bars that hold the sides of the slots in place, I would think that the input area of the back of the port would be fairly close to the full area of the port. Not much of a discontinuity between sizes so as a resonator or port, should work fairly well on the X-15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.