ninjai18 Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 I was just wondering, is it possible to refinished my Klipsch RF-3 II towers? They are all scuffed up and I would love to make them look new again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 If I am not mistaken, the RF-3II's have a vinyl veneer. With that said, you could strip the vinyl and apply a real wood veneer and stain/clear coat and make them really something special. Bill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjai18 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 If I am not mistaken, the RF-3II's have a vinyl veneer. With that said, you could strip the vinyl and apply a real wood veneer and stain/clear coat and make them really something special. Bill I think I just might look into a real wood veneer. I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 If I am not mistaken, the RF-3II's have a vinyl veneer. With that said, you could strip the vinyl and apply a real wood veneer and stain/clear coat and make them really something special. Bill I think I just might look into a real wood veneer. I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this. Toothpicks and wood glue would be the easy way out. Filling the old holes with Bondo & pre-drilling new screw holes would be my choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjai18 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) If I am not mistaken, the RF-3II's have a vinyl veneer. With that said, you could strip the vinyl and apply a real wood veneer and stain/clear coat and make them really something special. Bill I think I just might look into a real wood veneer. I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this. Toothpicks and wood glue would be the easy way out. Filling the old holes with Bondo & pre-drilling new screw holes would be my choice. I think I'll go with the first option, I'm not sure how you could drill new holes? The holes just wouldn't line up with the mounting holes on the drivers for the RF-4s, they aren't perfect circles. Any chance of a walkthrough for the toothpick and wood glue option? Edited November 7, 2015 by ninjai18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 If I am not mistaken, the RF-3II's have a vinyl veneer. With that said, you could strip the vinyl and apply a real wood veneer and stain/clear coat and make them really something special. Bill I think I just might look into a real wood veneer. I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this. Toothpicks and wood glue would be the easy way out. Filling the old holes with Bondo & pre-drilling new screw holes would be my choice. I think I'll go with the first option, I'm not sure how you could drill new holes? The holes just wouldn't line up with the mounting holes on the drivers for the RF-4s, they aren't perfect circles. Any chance of a walkthrough for the toothpick and wood glue option? I see, not familiar with these and thought you were referring to a rear panel. Just break some toothpicks to length, shove them in the worn out hole and let it dry, drill them out if needed and install your screws. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 If you are planning to veneer be sure to remove all the residual adhesive from the old vinyl adhesive to assure a good foundation for your new veneer to stick to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjai18 Posted November 7, 2015 Author Share Posted November 7, 2015 Awesome! Thanks man, you are super helpful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 I used these guys for my iron-on cherry veneer for my Revel B15 subwoofer that Jeff Hoak so kindly did for me. http://www.tapeease.com/hot_melt_sheets.htm Bill 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Dowel rods would work too. Drill out holes the same size as your rods and glue them in and let it dry, then pre-drill your holes in the new dowels for your screws. Be sure they are flush so you don't create any new leaks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted November 7, 2015 Share Posted November 7, 2015 Golf tees are pretty handy too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Think the early RF3 and RF3II were wood veneer. At least my rb5s are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Think the early RF3 and RF3II were wood veneer. At least my rb5s are. RF-3 Floorstanding Speaker FINISHES: Black ash vinyl veneer RF-3 II Floorstanding Speaker FINISHES: Black ash vinyl veneer RB-5 Bookshelf Speaker FINISHES: Oak, Mahogany, or Black wood veneer You are correct about the RB-5's. Bill Edited November 8, 2015 by willland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this. Ninjai, I have a pair of RF3's also and was looking into upgrading them, What mods did you do to the crossover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjai18 Posted December 6, 2015 Author Share Posted December 6, 2015 I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this. Ninjai, I have a pair of RF3's also and was looking into upgrading them, What mods did you do to the crossover? I did all new crossover parts from Parts Express. The only original part I kept was the original iron-core inductor in the woofer section of the crossover per DeanG's recommendation. Message me for more details, I'd be happy to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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