HDBRbuilder Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 7 minutes ago, DizRotus said: Would that he could. He already DID...years ago! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 I am sorry but I can no longer hold my tongue as I have for years now on this subject. Why do folks insist on going through all this with T-nuts when we have threaded inserts? I quit using T-Nuts long ago and use nothing but threaded inserts on my restorations and builds. Woofer/driver install, doghouse doors you name it. Anywhere one would use a T-nut. No adhesive of any kind is needed, they will not come out and they look clean when nicely installed. Get them in stainless so they will not rust. Great piece of hardware. Much better than a T-nut in my opinion. As an example I just finished drilling a pair of Khorn bass bins and installing threaded inserts so machine screws could be used to attach the doghouse door/woofer cover panel. No more wood screws chewing big azz holes in the bin coming loose and leaking air. Personal preference is one thing, but when a better solution exists why not use it? Certainly no disrespect or offense intended Andy. I have the utmost respect for your experience at Klipsch & Associates. Guess I'm just gettin' too old to mince words. LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 15 minutes ago, jorjen said: I am sorry but I can no longer hold my tongue as I have for years now on this subject. Why do folks insist on going through all this with T-nuts when we have threaded inserts? I quit using T-Nuts long ago and use nothing but threaded inserts on my restorations and builds. Woofer/driver install, doghouse doors you name it. Anywhere one would use a T-nut. No adhesive of any kind is needed, they will not come out and they look clean when nicely installed. Get them in stainless so they will not rust. Great piece of hardware. Much better than a T-nut in my opinion. As an example I just finished drilling a pair of Khorn bass bins and installing threaded inserts so machine screws could be used to attach the doghouse door/woofer cover panel. No more wood screws chewing big azz holes in the bin coming loose and leaking air. Personal preference is one thing, but when a better solution exists why not use it? Certainly no disrespect or offense intended Andy. I have the utmost respect for your experience at Klipsch & Associates. Guess I'm just gettin' too old to mince words. LOL! Not everybody has the threaded inserts, nor do they have the kit (which normally comes with them) that includes the tap for threading the holes in the wood which the inserts will go into. I personally have a full box (the industrial-sized box!) of T-nuts...and lots of time when doing a build, so that is what I use. I also use flat washers and lock washers on the machine-screw-head end of things. I also tend to make up way more than just enough parts for a single pair of anything, while I have the saw set up for cuts...for future assemblies. I tend to use Baltic birch for the motorboards, no matter what the rest of the speaker cabinet is made out of. I don't like to have to deal with "glue-lines" on the veneer prior to applying the finish, so I apply the finish PRIOR to assembly (ensuring any place that will be a glue surface is masked off so that the finish is not keeping the glue from doing its job!)...and since I use urethane finishes, the wipe-up of glue squeeze out is TOO EASY!...and it leaves no evidence of glue residue under the finish, because there IS NO GLUE under the finish. Even when roofing a house, I always strip off the cellophane covering the tar strip on the bottom-side of the shingles! and I use roofing tacks to secure them as I am roofing. Good luck getting any roofers to do THAT now-a-days! LOL! I don't believe in using sheet metal cleats on truss construction, much preferring to use 1/2" (nominally) baltic birch scraps then glue them and screw then to the joints of the trusses so that they are about ten times as strong, too. I prefer good old yellow pine for framing (I'm from Arkansas!), simply because it is so much STRONGER than the fir studs used by most contractors in home-building now-a-days so that their framers (using their nail guns) don't have to constantly stop and drive those nails the rest of the way in like they would often need to do if using yellow pine. I'm old and set in my ways, but I learned how to do things in a very different era, and KNOW what works best in construction (my father's house which I built in 1969 during the first semester of my Junior year in high school is certainly still standing and doing just fine!)...LOL! In other words, even though I just turned 64 years old, and probably have already lived way more than three-quarters of my life-span (my father passed away at 73 years old!, HIS father passed away at 78), I still feel that time taken on projects is worth the time taken, IF THE RESULTS of the time taken are worth the time taken. So, when I am fully-retired, sometime between TODAY and the age of 66, I will just take my time doing things, since I already know how to do that...and it sure beats the hello outta having to slap together over 120 heresy cabinets a day for $2.50 an hour, like I was doing at Klipsch when I left in 1983...ya'know? Actually, since my best friend Mike (we graduated Prescott High School together!) learned all the "ways to improve upon" the Jubilee (while listening to PWK and Roy discussing things between each other and WITH Mike during the R&D) while Mike was making changes or completely re-building the prototypes in Klipsch R&D...but which were never incorporated due to being more labor-intensive AND/OR materiel-cost-intensive for a regular production line build...I plan to get with him and incorporate at least a few of those labor-intensive tricks into a few Jube builds right after I retire. That outta be lots of fun, because I already have some ideas of my own about the build. Mike will lay up the HF horns, and we will work together again as geriatric retirees...with as many breaks as we want to take...and I may just video what we do. Just because I do things a certain way doesn't mean it is the easiest way or the least labor-intensive way...but IF it gets the results I am shooting for, then, TO ME it is/was time well-spent. To each his own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Jorjen, do you have a link to these threaded inserts? I have used some in the past that came out and needed glue/epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Go argue in your own thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 12 hours ago, Marvel said: Go argue in your own thread... No argument here...just explanation. Quit whining! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 1 hour ago, HDBRbuilder said: No argument here...just explanation. Quit whining! Sorry Bruce. Well said Andy and I do not disagree. Have a good day Gents! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Andy, since these cabs were already together, I made new drop in baffles out of half inch birch ply. The pieces fit perfect, but I routed the 3x15 slot with them in place, so they matched the cabs after putting in the t-nuts, these were screwed into place. The t-nuts won't fall out and hopefully I'll never have to remove the added in baffle. The back channel where the splitter is has no bolts or screws protruding. I'm not whining... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 1 hour ago, Marvel said: Andy, since these cabs were already together, I made new drop in baffles out of half inch birch ply. The pieces fit perfect, but I routed the 3x15 slot with them in place, so they matched the cabs after putting in the t-nuts, these were screwed into place. The t-nuts won't fall out and hopefully I'll never have to remove the added in baffle. The back channel where the splitter is has no bolts or screws protruding. Did you replace the splitter with one that actually had "V" notches" cut into its upper end and lower end so that it fit snugly to the "V" of the "wings" while you had the rear panels off? I recommend that. Just another of those things which can make a HEARD difference...but are not feasible for factory production due to labor costs involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Didn't take the rear panels off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 3 hours ago, Marvel said: Andy, since these cabs were already together, I made new drop in baffles out of half inch birch ply. The pieces fit perfect, but I routed the 3x15 slot with them in place, so they matched the cabs after putting in the t-nuts, these were screwed into place. The t-nuts won't fall out and hopefully I'll never have to remove the added in baffle. The back channel where the splitter is has no bolts or screws protruding. So, you are saying you put 1/2" motorboards on the INSIDE of the already existing motorboards?? OR...did you REPLACE those original 3/4" motorboards WITH the 1/2" motorboards you made? Also, are you still using K33 woofers in the doghouses...or did you use basically a replacement which performs like the K33 or the K43?? The reason I ask is about the overpressure created WITHIN the doghouse as the excursion of the woofer cone attempts to go REARWARD in relation to the direction the woofer is facing)....(meaning the cone is moving towards the FRONT of the bass bin to create that overpressure within the sealed doghouse itself). If the air volume within the sealed doghouse is significantly reduced compared to its design parameters, and increase in overpressure within the doghouse itself as the cone is doing its thing may limit its excursion ability in the direction AWAY FROM the compression slot. I don't know if this a big deal or not, but something to think about and maybe check on. Take the square inches of the surface of the motorboard and divide by 2 to get the decrease in cubic inches of air volume within the doghouse, if you have added a half inch of wood to the inside of the original motorboard. Make sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 MU1/2 in. added to inside of doghouse, using k33 woofers. However, there is a piece cut out of the top so I could later close in the backs and port, as djk has described and many here have done. I have sealed the doghouse back, so in effect, the loss of volume is minimal. Bruce PS when you hitting the pacific, and how much of your klipsch are you going to ship over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 On 3/29/2017 at 4:48 PM, The Dude said: Jorjen, do you have a link to these threaded inserts? I have used some in the past that came out and needed glue/epoxy. I have purchased threaded inserts for wood from Grainger, O'keefes and Fastenal. Check Amazon too, they have a ton of them. For example: https://www.grainger.com/product/4ZU63?gclid=COnL5PO6_9ICFUpNfgodGQwAeg&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAA-_-Fasteners-_-Thread Insert-_-4ZU63&AL!2966!3!166589331100!!!g!82128165357!&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166589331100!!!g!82128165357!&ef_id=WNqnCwAAAJTJ_uGJ:20170331001339:s https://www.grainger.com/category/knife-thread-inserts/thread-insert/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8o0?okey=knife+thread+inserts+for+wood&mkey=Knife+Thread+Inserts+&refineSearchString=knife+thread+inserts+for+wood&nls_boost_words=wood&NLSCM=5&EndecaKeyword=knife+thread+inserts+for+wood&searchBar=true&searchRedirect=knife+thread+inserts+for+wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted April 27, 2019 Author Share Posted April 27, 2019 All I can say is that I have these finished as much on these as I'm going to do. They look pretty much the same as in the earlier pics, but I have binding posts inside the back to connect the woofers to the crossovers. Finally got some decent wire to get the woofers installed and new bottoms on the cabinets. Still using the EV 1828 drivers for the mids. Woofers are new K-33 woofers that my older son got from JWC. The tweeters are APT-50 drivers on the Eminence 150 horn. These are the older APT50 drivers made in Poland, before Eminence started making them in house. Crossovers are DHA2s designed by @JohnA (John Albright). This sounds SWEET, and brought back the memories of how great LaScalas sound. Since I will be getting some MWM (dual K-43) bins within the month, I got the basics done so that I could listen again before letting my older son Josh, aka Invidiosulus on the forums, take them to his house.If we think we can't live with the sheer size of those, I'm sure I can find someone who would want them. Then I'll find something else to put in here. I'l let Josh decide if he will do anything to them o leave them as is. With three boys and two girls in the house, I think he will leave them alone. The LS are being powered by my 2A3 amplifiers, while the small JBLs flanking the TV are powered by an Alesis 100 wpc SS amp. The Heresiy IIs were connected to the Moondogs, but currently aren't connected to anything since I moved the cables to the LS. When I got the first LS totally together, I swapped out one of the Heresy speakers, and didn't change the gain. The LS almost blew me out of the room and I could barely hear the other channel with the Heresy on it. You have to love high sensitivity fully horn loaded speakers. Now my wife and I need to get a bunch of the Filipinas over for Karaoke. 😲 Bruce 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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