Paducah Home Theater Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 I would assume the BC is tapped very accurately, so it's a cheap high tolerance bolt you got. Lars Would Grainger or anybody have more precise ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 (edited) Well yes, but again, why screw with that? Theyre not gioing to sell you 8 of them.. Again, old school hardware store Hillman drawers correct length cap screws as per my link. Lars Screw with that. That's funny, my funeral home humor for the evening. Edited July 9, 2016 by Karsoncookie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Not to crap the thread, but I think it's answered so.. Jweber - You mentioned you do machining. On another post question was being asked about K400 gasket, which led to throat reaming. I'm curious, labor time wise - Is it much more time consuming to index reamer on the threaded hole ID, rather than just ream the ID of throat which may not depending on mold quality, be the same "centering" on the end result installed driver? Lars Not sure what a reamer is doing in a tapped (threaded) hole, other than removing threads. I am not getting the question. Have a link on the K400 basket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 No no, I mean reaming the flash and other imperfections on the ID of the throat, past the threaded portion. So question is - It would be more accurate to avoid off centering creating a step by indexing from center of threaded part meaning center of driver nipple than centering on existing throat. They should be the same, but in reality may not be, due to mold innacuracy, and aging as discussed here - https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/164892-that-k-400-washer/?hl=k400#entry2036018 And some posts here - after approx post 68 -- https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/164065-help-teens-rebuild-lascala-speakers/page-4?hl=k400#entry2031298 Lars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 What I picture as flashing is very thin and wouldn't require much stock removal. If that's the case, I'd use a spiral flute "bridge" reamer and do it by hand. A spiral reamer is different than a drill bit in that, unlike the drill bit, it cuts and pushes the material forward, therefore it is less likely to grab and pull into the material. Trying to set up in a mill or in a lathe is doable. Also, it would be, more than likely, very time consuming to do it right in a machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 (edited) Makes total sense to me, especially the forward feed needed, not grabby. Self centering, better than typical die grinder bits. But now that's just for the flash. Some are talking about unequal ID's of driver and horn, and further, in addition to that, and then I brought up possibilty of not on axis centerings to each other, if that's understandable. Lastly, I brought up if a small step even really matters, I dunno. Lars Edited July 8, 2016 by Karsoncookie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 To add to the machining question(s): The K400 is long enough that it might not fit under the head, and the boring head + boring bar of the average mill (Bridgeport, Index, etc). To set up in a lathe would be miserable but after it's set it would be the easiest to remove stock. I have a 4" Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill, similar to this one that I could do it in. As far as price: If it was here, I'd do it for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 (edited) Makes total sense to me, especially the forward feed needed, not grabby. Self centering, better than typical die grinder bits. But now that's just for the flash. Some are talking about unequal ID's of driver and horn, and further, in addition to that, and then I brought up possibilty of not on axis centerings to each other, if that's understandable. Lastly, I brought up if a small step even really matters, I dunno. Lars See my other post. A step (shoulder) isn't a problem...especially to remove it A drill press' knee table can accommodate ~ tall work, but they, generally, aren't ready to keep a tight tolerance. A jig / fixture / hardened bore bushing that would (if doable) pilot the bit. Has a chance of centering and keeping it aligned (two separate factors) both at the same time. Edited July 8, 2016 by jweber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Very cool. I have no hi test "machining" experience, but I am very proud of my fully restored 1950's Rockwell drill press. Only one little divot on the tray !! in all those years. Thank you for responses, Lars 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 I'm still not getting why you need an all thread or threaded rod. What am i not understanding? I have 3 pairs of B And C drivers. De -10s, De -38s and de -120s. Also BMS 4592mid drivers. There are no threaded rods involved anywhere on any of them. Is the de - 750 different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 babadono, are yours threaded or do they have through holes with no threads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 They are threaded, the drivers that is. The horn lenses have through holes, put a bolt(of the proper length) through into driver and voila. There are many ways to skin a cat I know, just trying to understand this conundrum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 Making a mountain out of a molehill. Threads need to be clean in order to thread properly, that or the pitch is off. Check them at the store before you walk out with a nut of the same pitch, and not the locking type. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 He said Mole. Lars l Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 Making a mountain out of a molehill. May be, but there's nothing local that will work without modification. I finally broke down and hauled the compression driver and horn to both Lowes and Home Depot and rifled through everything they had to try to find something that will work. They have no M6 threaded rods. They have no studs. They have no bolts that will work because on half of the holes, the horn would require them to be inserted at a steep angle, and the short ones that will fit are not long enough to hit the threads inside the compression driver. Long ones will not go into the horn because the throat of it is too close to the bolt holes. I'm going to either have to cut the heads off the longer M6 bolts or order something online. I have a Dremel, hopefully that will take the heads off without damaging the threads too badly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 (edited) Will this work. You can put a bolt (whoops, "nut") on the end. I searched the HD site for just M6. There are several different lengths. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M6-1-0-x-8-mm-Alloy-Socket-Set-Screws-2-Pack-82898/202210168 If I understand it, you want an M6 bolt of just the correct length. Too long and it will not insert in the flange of the horn because it can't be canted over because the flaring out of the horn gets in the way. The correct length would be so you place the bolt through the horn and have about 1 cm to engage the holes in the driver. If you can estimate the need length you might find the proper bolt on line. A cap head (one which takes an allen wrench) might help because the head would be more narrow than a hex head -- and this could help with the canting over issue. But the alternative is a threaded rod of just the right length and you can thread them into the driver, put them through the flange while screwed into the drivver, and then put a nut on. I think a few of these set screws can be found in the correct length. They are of course a short piece of rod. And then you apply a nut and maybe a washer with one edge cut down. In my experience, HD is good about delivery to store or home if a special order is needed. WMcD Edited July 21, 2016 by WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 MLO, Dude its the dog days of summer and this still isn't a done deal? Just goofing on ya . I know sometimes stuff just don't get done for one reason or another. What horn are you mating to? You don't have a real hardware store nearby? Sometimes the big box places just suck for this kind of stuff. Seems like Mr. Hendrix's suggestion of McMaster Carr maybe the only way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Will this work. You can put a bolt on the end. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M6-1-0-x-8-mm-Alloy-Socket-Set-Screws-2-Pack-82898/202210168 WMcD You mean a nut, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 (edited) Yes, of course. Sorry. I also added to the post by edit. WMcD Edited July 21, 2016 by WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karsoncookie Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 (edited) The Dremel with abrasive cutoff wheel will work perfect. Wear glasses, those wheels often shatter. Chamfer bevel cut end on a file laying on the bench to clean up threads. Actually, even quicker is to GENTLY use the side of the wheel to chamfer, holding your stud in fingers at this point, removed from vise. Test cleaned up end with a nut, may have to touch up few times with the wheel/ file for it to go on easily. Stop wasting your time at HD and go to the old hardware store. Lars Edited July 22, 2016 by Karsoncookie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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