Roboklipsch's DIYSG 4cft ported build using Legacy EF 15" Driver

[RoboKlipsch]

For simplicity I like the idea of just drilling a small hole and sealing the terminals in those.  But I will definitely consider this option too, it does seem really clean and professional looking.

 

For this sub, the feet seem a challenge.  The port in there covers most of the bottom....I don't really want to deal with t-nuts or hurricane nuts if I don't have to with the feet.  Any ideas for feet that may work within those parameters?  I don't really "need" feet, but with a finished wood veneer I know it's the smart thing to do...or at least prop them up a bit so they are not touching the floor and rubbing if moved. 

[RoboKlipsch]

3 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

I used one on THIS build.

 

I'm looking forward to reading through this 13 page build thread later   29cubic feet I'll tell you man I can build this or that and someone has already done something so massive that it somehow makes a 4cft ported sub seem tiny

[Scrappydue]

feet are easy. pick some penn elcomm feet from parts express.  use a 1/2" screw and you won't worry about it poking through the port anywhere. you an see the ones i used in my speaker build thread. then i used wider thinner ones on my subs. 

 

[CECAA850]

1 minute ago, RoboKlipsch said:

I'm looking forward to reading through this 13 page build thread later  

I've got a bunch of build threads if you ever get bored. 

[Scrappydue]

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/case-cabinet-feet/648

 

i used F1687 on downstairs subs so they would have a gap but a small one. then i used 9112 on upstairs subs cause i needed exactly the 1/2" rise from them 

[RoboKlipsch]

1/2" was enough no problems?  that sounds great to me, I think I'll go in that direction.  Thanks guys!

[RoboKlipsch]

Scrap what type of screw/bolt did you use for this?   Pre-drill?

 

Thanks

RK

[CECAA850]

5 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said:

Scrap what type of screw/bolt did you use for this?   Pre-drill?

 

Thanks

RK

If you drill and are afraid of penetrating the inside of the cab, take a piece of rubber hose or a deep socket and slip it over the bit to create a stop.  Be sure the exposed section of bit is less than the thickness of your cabinet.

[RoboKlipsch]

Thanks CEC.   I am more concerned whether or not 1/2" of screw is enough to not break out of the sub...but perhaps that's overthinking it too much.  It's not like I'll be moving them a lot once they are tested and placed.  

[CECAA850]

If you pick it up to move it you'll be fine.  If you drag it you wont.  If you want to use longer screws, glue some blocks inside the cab where the feet will go.  They should be out of the way of the port from the looks of things.

[RoboKlipsch]

5 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

If you pick it up to move it you'll be fine.  If you drag it you wont.  If you want to use longer screws, glue some blocks inside the cab where the feet will go.  They should be out of the way of the port from the looks of things.

I've picked those ************* up and turned them over or moved them so many times now that I will never drag them 

Of course, 45 more pounds will be added to each box once the drivers are loaded.  So there's that 

 

Am I being lazy not putting in longer bolts and the blocks?

 

 

[CECAA850]

8 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said:

 

Am I being lazy not putting in longer bolts and the blocks?

Let's see if Murphy can answer you.

 

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but there is always enough time to do it over.

The first 90% of a project takes 90% of the time, the last 10% takes the other 90% of the time.

Once a job is fouled up, anything done to improve it only makes it worse.

[CECAA850]

I guess I should add one of my own:  Never ask an anal retentive person if close is good enough

[derrickdj1]

Feet or no feet for the sub, hum.  I say no feet.  All of my subs don't have feet!  That has to be right since I built them without feet, lol.

[fuzzydog]

1 hour ago, RoboKlipsch said:

I've picked those ************* up and turned them over or moved them so many times now that I will never drag them 

Of course, 45 more pounds will be added to each box once the drivers are loaded.  So there's that 

Yeah, i'm not planning on loading the driver in my sub until i drag the box upstairs and get it into final position.  

 

You're kicking my arse in the sub building business BTW...i think i've been working on mine for nearly 6 months!

[RoboKlipsch]

On 9/19/2016 at 3:24 PM, FuzzyDog said:

Yeah, i'm not planning on loading the driver in my sub until i drag the box upstairs and get it into final position.  

 

You're kicking my arse in the sub building business BTW...i think i've been working on mine for nearly 6 months!

That's a good idea!

 

FDog although this process is 100% fun and will provide way more bass than I could afford otherwise, there's an underlying stress involved in my first build.

I have never done most of these things so each one requires some reading, some youtube videos and a lot of thought -- as you know   Having a project out there that isn't complete weighs on my mind and I want it done! 

[CECAA850]

1 minute ago, RoboKlipsch said:

in my first build.

I've never seen someone build once then stop

[RoboKlipsch]

Picking up where we left off on the finishing process, the dye had been put down and then sealed with the dewaxed SealCoat.

 

The next step in this process involves filling the wood pores with a combination of Old Masters Woodgrain Filler and ZAR's Early American Wood Stain.

The ratio is 2 parts woodgrain filler and 1 part stain, mixed in a container.  

 

Applied by using a small spoon to scoop from container, and then rubbed into the finish with the grain back and forth until worked in thoroughly.  Then it sits for a while, from 5 to 15 minutes or so depending upon the weather conditions, and then is rubbed off with a clean flannel rag against the grain, with a final rub with the grain.

 

The results of this step were finished in the last couple of days.  Pictures are below. I only have a few decent shots as I was holding a light and the camera, but will take more soon.  

 

I was shocked how much this step improved everything.  Most of the imperfections from the last step were covered completely by the filler/stain combination, and the color of the stain went over the dye from earlier, taking the reddish color to a nice rich brown.  I did touch up each panel with the dye rag as a step before finishing  -- when I finished putting the filler on each panel, I touched up the next panel with the dye.  It is suggested that the pore filler dry for 4 hours before recoating, or 16 hours before sealing.  I waited 4 hours in each case before turning it over to the next side, and now that they are all complete, they've all sat for 16+ hours.  

 

Surprisingly, since I started working on this I have not skipped a single day.  Today however with the rain...I may not have a chance to do any of the next step, which is SealCoat x3.  I can't remember a day without working on the subs lol....

[RoboKlipsch]

15 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

I've never seen someone build once then stop

 

Well now that you mention it, the idea of building a really big nice center channel from DIYSG again....

 

[CECAA850]

Looks great.  The lighting or the camera makes it look like the edges are rounded slightly.