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Heritage_Head

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Neither unless you are looking at car audio application.

 

You may be OK with the 15" version if you port the cabinet.

 

 

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I build the 15" sub kit.  Was pretty easy and sounds excellent.  Very good value for the money. (And think they lowered the price :) )  @wvu80 build a couple; maybe he can chime in :) 

Box was done in a day (ok; minutes, but glue drying time takes a while).  Made feet for it and turned it into a bottom firing sub.  Veneering took the longest time :D  Don't use it much ... haha; have KPT-904's :D 

Using it with a Dayton SA1000 amp. Very "musical." (Yes, know that is an incorrect term ... but widely understood phrase.)

 

IMG_2092.JPG

 

BTW ... I substituted the "HF" driver for the "HO."

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18 minutes ago, jason str said:

Neither unless you are looking at car audio application.

 

You may be OK with the 15" version if you port the cabinet.

 

 

Why would it need to be ported?

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2 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

Why would it need to be ported?

Supposedly better characteristics ... but you will need a box about THREE times this size :( 

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1 minute ago, Heritage_Head said:

Why would it need to be ported?

 

Not really the correct volume for the driver.

 

If you want to build something do it right the first time so you don't waste money or valuable time.

 

Happy to help if you need it.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, jason str said:

 

Not really the correct volume for the driver.

 

If you want to build something do it right the first time so you don't waste money or valuable time.

 

Happy to help if you need it.

 

 

Absolutely I would 👍

 

Im tight on funds and space. I've been looking local used. But building something would be a great value and would be a chance to do some veneer work (before attempting veneer on lascals).

 

Anything that I could put together (kit) under 300 you would recommend Jason?

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the svs amp has 2 peq and sealed mode (also different tuned modes 20hz and 16hz for plugging ports). Im guessing these are low pass filters. And sealed probably disables these. 

PB12P-blkoak-nogrille_grande.jpg?v=14749

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12 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

Absolutely I would 👍

 

Im tight on funds and space. I've been looking local used. But building something would be a great value and would be a chance to do some veneer work (before attempting veneer on lascals).

 

Anything that I could put together (kit) under 300 you would recommend Jason?

 

I can get close to $300. :D

 

Cabinet

Driver

 

Add a 14" long 4" flared end port tube or use PVC pipe to save a bit.

 

F3 will be about 23 Hz

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

HO is high output? is HF high freq?

Yes; HO is "high output." When I talked to Parts Express they said "better for car stereo ... use the HF (high fidelity?) woofer.  But (think) wdu80 disagrees with me.  Strangely, the recommended box size for the HF is about correct ... the HO recommended size is "WAY OFF."

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28 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

HO is high output? is HF high freq?

I own the Reference 15.  It has a 3 cuft sealed box with the RSS390 HO, which does indeed stand for High Output.  I use a Yung SD500 w/bass boost plate amp.  The box has a template CNC embossed so you can use a jig saw and cut out a place for the plate amp.

 

 If you go sealed you need a 6 db bass boost at 35 Hz.  Not needed for ported.  The HO does not dig as deep as the Umax 15 but I like the upper part of the sub-bass better and for my tastes I don't really care about 20 Hz or under.  I use an Inuke 3000dsp to power a pair, 600 wpc.  I prefer the Reference 15.

 

It's a phenomenal sub.  I find it very musical (NOT BOOMY for those of you immediately shouting at your screens "THERE'S NO SUCH THING AS A MUSICAL SUB DAVE IT EITHER REPRODUCES BASS CORRECTLY OR IT DOESN'T!!!), it adds a very realistic sound and punch for the lowest octave when used with my CF-4's, effectively turning them from 2-way speakers to a 3-way speaker system.  A piano SOUNDS like a piano, the sub adds that bottom end to the range, with authority.

 

I saw where @jason str disagreed with the use of the HO sub driver.  I would not argue with him as I consider him an authority, he knows his stuff.  However if Jason looked at the specs I can understand how he could have come to that conclusion (as Did @Emile who went his own way with a different sub driver from mine and he is quite pleased with his sound).

 

Regardless of the specs the Reference 15 sounds great but I would recommend at least 500 watts (it tops out at 800). 

 

That's my experience and I'm sticking to it.  B)

 

Below:  RF-83, RP-600M, Dayton Audio Reference 15

 

1846099597_RP-600Mon15inchsub_small.thumb.jpg.e8d14aedf464f0344ec93fb500e19fb5.jpg

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4 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

I own the Reference 15.  It has a 3 cuft sealed box with the RSS390 HO, which does indeed stand for High Output.  I use a Yung SD500 w/bass boost.  If you go sealed you need a 6 db bass boost at 35 Hz.  Not needed for ported.  The HO does not dig as deep as the Umax 15 but I like the upper part of the sub-bass better and for my tastes I don't really care about 20 Hz or under.  I use an Inuke 3000dsp to power a pair, 600 wpc.  I prefer the Reference 15.

 

It's a phenomenal sub.  I find it very musical (NOT BOOMY for those of you immediately shouting at your screens "THERE'S NO SUCH THING AS A MUSICAL SUB IT EITHER REPRODUCES BASS CORRECTLY OR IT DOESN'T!!!), it adds a very realistic sound and punch for the lowest octave when used with my CF-4's, effectively turning them from 2-way speakers to a 3-way speaker system.  A piano SOUNDS like a piano, the sub adds that bottom end to the range, with authority.

 

I saw where @jason str disagreed with the use of the HO sub driver.  I would not argue with him as I consider him an authority, he knows his stuff.  However if Jason looked at the specs I can understand how he could have come to that conclusion (as Did @Emile who went his own way with a different sub driver from mine and he is quite pleased with his sound).

 

Regardless of the specs the Reference 15 sounds great but I would recommend at least 500 watts (it tops out at 800). 

 

That's my experience and I'm sticking to it.  B)

If I used the svs pb12 plus sledge amp. I could use one of the peqs to most 35hz i think. Do you think this amp would work well? With that sub?

  • STA-800D Sledge with 800 watts RMS continuous power (2300 watts peak dynamic power).
  • High efficiency cool-running Class D switching topology.
  • RoHS compliant, lead-free construction and world-wide safety certifications.
  • Auto-On / On switch with "green" standby mode.
  • Stereo line-level RCA and balanced (XLR) input/output connections.
  • Normal and Hi input voltage switch.
  • Customized EQ and DSP limiter settings specifically for the PB12-Plus.
  • Detachable power cord with main power switch and ceramic fuse.
  • Variable tuning with 20Hz, 16Hz, and Sealed settings to match subwoofer port settings.
  • Fully adjustable (frequency and slope) phase-correct speaker/sub digital crossover.
  • Intelligent Feature Control (IFC) with bright LCD display.
  • Digital PEQ with adjustable frequency, cut/boost, and Q values.
  • Room gain compensation control with adjustable frequency and slope.
  • Fixed 80 Hz 12 dB/octave high pass filter on line level outputs.
  • Input impedance - 24 kΩ (unbalanced RCA) / 22 kΩ (balanced XLR).

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