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Heritage_Head

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19 minutes ago, jason str said:

If you need a sub for La Scala's get a horn loaded sub.

 

None of the subs mentioned here will do them justice.

There are no H word talk here!

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13 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

Damit Jason!

 

 

Wish i had better news for you.

 

I have done much testing with many models (big, small & multiples of them) and have come to the conclusion i recommended to you and others.

 

Save your $$$ and do it right the first time.

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In seriousness though I cant do it (horn) in this set up. I was thinking about it... but near field is pretty much my only good spot for location in this room (you mentioned near field isn't great for a horn sub). 

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8 minutes ago, jason str said:

 

Wish i had better news for you.

 

I have done much testing with many models (big, small & multiples of them) and have come to the conclusion i recommended to you and others.

 

Save your $$$ and do it right the first time.

Good advise. I know you know. 👍

 

I cant do it right in my current room. Its one of the big reasons my budget is what it is. I don't want to invest very much doing it wrong. 

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But I do want to be able to get something that can keep up better. But isn't to much money. 

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Jeez ... just give it a try :D  it's only $300 :) 

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If you really need more bass and want to keep the La Scala's i suggest using your money on a parametric equalizer (PEQ), porting the cabinet will also help.

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I was playing around today with adding some low end to my LS quads. (I use these outside or in my warehouse)

These two subs were yanked out of my basement. They are the 12" HF versions of what you are looking at from Dayton. (I actually swapped one out with a 12" Titanic driver I had just for kicks) Anyway they hold their own but don't keep up with the LSs after a point. I would guess that if you are talking near field (not sure how near) it is a fairly small room and they should do just fine for you. I agree w Jason, port them and don't put the amp in the cabinet. I am by no means an expert, just know what has worked for me (and not worked). Still plan to build a good horn sub someday.

Good luck, have fun with it!

 

subs2.png.f2c02d41753baad7b2252a5fb8c50282.png

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3 hours ago, jason str said:

 

Ultimax kit

 

The Kits only include driver & cabinet. You will need to buy a terminal cup, screws, stuffing and wire to complete the basic build.

 

I mention a terminal cup because i don't recommend installing the amplifier in the cabinet.

I think I might give this a shot. 

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39 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

Wood this glue be fine? Or something else be better?

https://www.parts-express.com/gorilla-glue-4-oz-bottle--340-004

 

Also what stuffing would be cheap?

That is polyurethane glue, the expanding stuff.  My vote is No.

 

I suggest Titebond II or III.  (the yellow glue, as opposed to Titebond I, the white glue.  You'll need a bigger bottle.  Available from Lowes, Home Depot.

+++

 

Stuffing:  Polyfil for sealed.  For ported a lining like Denim insulation (not denim jeans).  Polyfil is 1 pound per cuft.  If you have a 3 cuft box, you need 3 pounds of Polyfil.  A lot of people simply buy a polyfil pillow at Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Poly-Fil-Premium-Fiber-Fill-5-lb-Box/33397323?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227022679157&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40948213592&wl4=pla-78889592912&wl5=9009314&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=33397323&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXgf-KjZ3QdakkLp7m0k_yweKn0_fMwc_v-LIJXZjh2p5rIJJ2u5tkxoCVP0QAvD_BwE

 

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1 hour ago, Heritage_Head said:

giphy.gif?cid=790b76115d267a536575767132

Dang, she just slipped  Mickey in the drink... don't drink it dude...

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1 hour ago, wvu80 said:

That is polyurethane glue, the expanding stuff.  My vote is No.

 

I suggest Titebond II or III.  (the yellow glue, as opposed to Titebond I, the white glue.  You'll need a bigger bottle.  Available from Lowes, Home Depot.

+++

 

 

 

1000% RIGHT  Titebond Ultimate not much more and has advantages.

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10 hours ago, wvu80 said:

That is polyurethane glue, the expanding stuff.  My vote is No.

 

I suggest Titebond II or III.  (the yellow glue, as opposed to Titebond I, the white glue.

 

I just did a lot of research on exactly this, because I am currently building an enclosure. The overwhelming conclusion, at least from the sources that I read, was that Gorilla Glue is only OK if you have a very tight-fitting joint -- the foamy stuff that fills gaps has no strength whatsoever. Otherwise, all versions of Titebond were ultimately stronger than the wood that they were joining. Epoxy fared well, but only if allowed to cure fully, which took far longer than anybody expected. Liquid Nails was good for filling gaps, but not a good long-term adhesive.

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I can tell you that Bill Fitzmaurice recommends Loctite PL construction adhesive for the THT build precisely because it expands to fill cracks.

 

Oh, I agree on the Titebond (III, anyway). I had to get a joint undone once and ended up destroying the wood, the joint was way stronger than the wood.

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9 minutes ago, codewritinfool said:

I can tell you that Bill Fitzmaurice recommends Loctite PL construction adhesive for the THT build precisely because it expands to fill cracks.

 

That was mentioned in the studies that I read, as well. Loctite PL was the only adhesive recommended for filling gaps.

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