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KD-16 re-repair


iaRIVR

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Restoring a pair of Chorus IIs and getting ready to put the drivers back in the near future. One of the passives was scratched and had some little puncture holes. It was fixed by slathering silicone over the holes. I'm not too worried but thought I would see if anyone had recommendations. They will look nice, so long term resale is a factor but I mostly care about performance now.

 

My ideas in order of current preference:

 

1) Carefully trim off the excess silicone and call it good

2) Recone with SS kit (probably both)

3) New Forte III passives from Klipsch

3) Wait for or find another KD-16.

 

 

IMG_20201004_092814522.jpg

IMG_20201004_092825389.jpg

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Should have used rubber cement. Less weight. I agree with proceeding with your list in the order you have it. The amount of $, time, skill, and OCD you commit to the project determine the rest. Return on investment net zero or more likely subzero with any of your choices. Original is always best when possible.

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2 hours ago, iaRIVR said:

 I'm not too worried but thought I would see if anyone had recommendations. They will look nice, so long term resale is a factor but I mostly care about performance now.

 

My ideas in order of current preference:

 

1) Carefully trim off the excess silicone and call it good

2) Recone with SS kit (probably both)

3) New Forte III passives from Klipsch

3) Wait for or find another KD-16.

 

Personally I'd just leave them alone I'm sure performance wise they are just fine and wait for a reasonably priced used replacement comes along. If you're in a hurry to sell the speakers down the line I'd order 2 new forte III passives and sell both of your used ones to make up the cost.

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9 hours ago, 314carpenter said:

Should have used rubber cement.

double on that -------but if yours holds great ------keep an eye out for 2 passives in great condition if you want  to resell the speakers

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Thanks, and just to clarify these weren't repaired by me this was how I got them. I would have used the glue I picked up from Midwest Speaker Repair. Which, by the way, is an awesome place.

 

No one seems too concerned which is a good sign. If the Forte III passive is the same weight/specs those are surprisingly reasonable. I was under the impression they were different and could be used but the sound would change. Prob better to keep these original and go with those or another KD-16 rather than attempt a recone.

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8 minutes ago, iaRIVR said:

Thanks, and just to clarify these weren't repaired by me this was how I got them. I would have used the glue I picked up from Midwest Speaker Repair. Which, by the way, is an awesome place.

 

No one seems too concerned which is a good sign. If the Forte III passive is the same weight/specs those are surprisingly reasonable. I was under the impression they were different and could be used but the sound would change. Prob better to keep these original and go with those or another KD-16 rather than attempt a recone.

From "The Man" himself.

 

F

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12 minutes ago, iaRIVR said:

Thanks, and just to clarify these weren't repaired by me this was how I got them. I would have used the glue I picked up from Midwest Speaker Repair. Which, by the way, is an awesome place.

 

No one seems too concerned which is a good sign. If the Forte III passive is the same weight/specs those are surprisingly reasonable. I was under the impression they were different and could be used but the sound would change. Prob better to keep these original and go with those or another KD-16 rather than attempt a recone.

You are good...

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Appreciate the responses and thread references, sorry I realize the replacement options have been covered already. I've put a lot of work into these and am beyond excited to have them running as close to their original sound as possible. I didn't think a little silicone would hurt too much but thanks for confirming.

 

The end is in sight, maybe another week or so if things go well and i'll post a thread about the project. 🍻

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just curious, but has anyone actually weighed a dab of silicone vs rubber cement?  they are very similar consistency & i highly doubt that is an issue... we're talking hundredths of a gram for the little dots that were used on these passives. dont sweat over the silicone, they are fine as is. 

 

& cosmetically the recone kit is the best option IMO if you decide to replace whats in there now, the new F3 passive will function ok but wont look right & someone recently posted that they dont fit the hole right & sit as flush as the correct originals do. but i cant confirm that, just what someone posted when they used a F3 passive on a F2. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/5/2020 at 11:17 AM, EpicKlipschFan said:

just curious, but has anyone actually weighed a dab of silicone vs rubber cement?  they are very similar consistency & i highly doubt that is an issue... we're talking hundredths of a gram for the little dots that were used on these passives. dont sweat over the silicone, they are fine as is. 

 

& cosmetically the recone kit is the best option IMO if you decide to replace whats in there now, the new F3 passive will function ok but wont look right & someone recently posted that they dont fit the hole right & sit as flush as the correct originals do. but i cant confirm that, just what someone posted when they used a F3 passive on a F2. 

 

Extremely small. Some of the smears were fairly thick, even so the difference would be tiny. And not one that I could ever detect I bet. However, I'm putting enough time into these it's worth it to me to get as close to 100% as I can.

 

The silicone came off easily with tweezers and very light scraping. Tedious, but I was able to remove about 95% of it with no paper coming off. An unexpected benefit for me was to be able to clearly inspect the damage. I turned the lights off and used a bright flashlight to check both passives. The holes were far less then the size of the repair suggested, I feel way more confident that a light coat of glue will make these 99% with no need to recone or replace.

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