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type of texture for finishing an industrial klipsch


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7 hours ago, RandyH000 said:

here is a picture of Duratex , but well done  , I think it is beautiful -




This is one of my pair of La Scalas that I refinished this spring.

I used Black Roller grade Duratex with the blue Druratex roller

To get the slightly more "relaxed" texture, I mix about 5% water in with the Duratex.

Duratex does suggest not using any more than that 5% water.


Once you have the Duratex rolled on and it is starting to set (which does not take long, a minute or so) try to resist the temptation

to "touch it up" with the roller, this will start to give a rougher texture.


Randy, thanks very much for the compliments, they did turn out pretty nice.


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18 hours ago, DJM said:

someone knows the type of texture used for finishing on industrial klipsch la scala?

thank you for your advices


Captura de Pantalla 2020-11-03 a la(s) 3.10.22 p.m..png



   It is a two part spray process. One is to coat the surface uniformly and is the base coat. The other "top coat" is a spray process that kind of spatters the paint on and takes a deft touch to do well.


  https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/473604-reproducing-pebble-finish-paint-finish/ which says in part,


"First a smooth base coat is applied, and allowed to "flash".  Not dry completely, but it has to be at a state where the texture dots won't simply flatten-out into a base coat that is still too wet.  


The spray gun is then adjusted to achieve the proper-sized texture.  Essentially the air pressure shooting the paint is turned way down, the "fan" angle is reduced to nearly zero by reducing it's pressure, and the paint needle is opened-up.  By adjusting all three of these settings, you zero-in on the size and character of the texture.


You shoot on a practice board until the adjustments are just right, then texture the base-coated part.


But it's not that simple (of course).  The paint consistency is important as well.  Very high-relief texture dots, what some people would call "pebbled", requires a thicker, more viscous paint mix than flatter texture dots.  You have to adjust the amount of reducer used with the paint to achieve the right viscosity.  The base coat and texture coat may require two seperate mixes, depending on the finish you want to reproduce.


Such paints also typically have more than one reducer available, depending on how flat or glossy you want the finish.  Likewise the catalyst used.  There are also fisheye eliminators and accellerators that can be added to the paint to affect the final product.


Texturing with skill and repeatability means being familiar with the paint you plan to use as well as your equipment, and having lots of practice under your belt.  It can get expensive with automotive paints, especially when you figure in the cost of cleaning solvents, personal protective gear such as eye protection, rubber gloves, and at least a half-face respirator.  Never use spray-paints without proper protection, a dust mask won't cut it.  You need an organic vapor cartridge filter mask to keep from poisoning yourself. 


Sorry there is no simple way to learn to paint texture in an afternoon, nor any miracle product that I'm aware of.  Maybe some other folks can post some tips for just touching-up small areas with a #000 brush and bottled, air-dry enamel?"

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