Heresy Decorators: What to do with them?

[tragusa3]

This is my second pair of Heresy.  They popped up local.  I didn't really need them, but I offered a number I wouldn't pass on and it was accepted!

 

I've got to work at cleaning up the face of all the adhesive and velcro.  Their is a break in the veneer in the top right face of one of them.  The owner tried glueing it back.  Other than that, they look pretty good.  The finish is dull.  I'd like to give them a luster back.

 

I opened then backs and found not only have they been untouched, but the inside is pristine.  Weirdly clean, like a time capsule.

 

I want to stick completely original.  I'm not afraid to get into sanding, re-staining and finishing, but I don't know if these need that?  Maybe a good cleaning and then oiling?  What to do about that veneer break?  Pretty sure I can get that dust cap pulled out.  The tape on the cone appears to be over nothing...I looked from the rear and don't see a thing.

 

Any direction from the pros would be welcome!

 

[Peter P.]

I don't have a lot to offer for advice but I will say you've got the immaculate inside as a reference so use that to see how close you are getting to removing the outside flaws.

 

I'd wash them first with Murphy's Wood Soap. Repeat the process until the water comes clean.

 

The tape on the cone- a hair dryer might soften the adhesive enough for clean removal. I suspect if you merely pull off the tape it will raise the fibers of the paper cone; you may want to leave it. If not a hair dryer, some boiling water on a rag might do the same thing but it may stain the cone. I've successfully used either technique but not on speaker cones.

 

Sand with the grain to avoid raising the fibers.

 

Practice your sanding on the bottoms of the cabinets before you attack the rest of them. Any mistakes will be hidden.

 

Stains never looked real to me. I like using Watco Danish Oil. Stupid easy to apply, and adds depth to the grain. One tip if you go this route: You've got to wipe up drips over the edges as you apply otherwise they will remain visible. To prevent drips I taped off adjacent surfaces with painter's tape.

 

Don't forget to show us the finished speakers!

[tragusa3]

Thanks Peter!  Some good tips in there.  

 

I may leave the tape on there and be okay with it.  If I used a hair dryer, I could see that the tape will come off, but adhesive will be left behind.  The appearance of a mark would still be visible, and cleaning that off of paper nearly impossible.

 

I'm glad you mention sanding with the grain.  I have a random orbital sander that I was going to use, but it sounds like hand work is the trick here.  I will YouTube some examples of hand sanding with the grain.  I also don't plan to be aggressive.  I may start with a 100 and go finer from there.  Maybe start at 220?

 

What do you think of applying another stain?  I want a richer/deeper look, but maybe the oil will do that with what I already have?  

 

I already have the oil, I've used it on my Khorns.  I'll look out for the drips.  If I do oil it, will that be a hinderance with any future paths I might take?  What if I decide the oil isn't "deep" enough and I choose something like a varnish or laquer later?  Will the oil prevent those from being an option?

 

Good tip to start on the bottom!

[OO1]

these speakers were meant to be raw birch vs stained ,

The serial no tag at the rear could be from 1976 to 1978  , these also have the rare Laser badge.

 

  I would not sand , but I would remove  the  stain...50/50 mineral sprits , 0000 wool  , the 2nd step would be to  clean the veneer ( dish soap  / bicarbonate soda /   vinegar/ olive oil  ) ,with a sponge  with an abrasive side , and damp rags 

 

[tragusa3]

Serial number has an R in it, so 1977, I think.

 

50/50 mineral spirits mixed with what?  By abrasive side of sponge, are you referring to the green colored scotch scrubber pad?

 

I don't know anything about the laser badge?  How "special" does that make them?

[billybob]

Murphy's is good stuff. Maybe all you need. Looks like you have the copper badges.

Congrats...

BTW, those magic erasers are cool too.

Edited September 10, 2023 by billybob

[tragusa3]

Thanks BillyBob, I'll try the magic eraser too.  

[Bacek]

Don't think magic eraser (if we are talking about those white sponge) is good think for wood. They work somehow when they are wet and using water on plywood it's not best thing to do. In small doses it will not brake it but it will lift the grain of the wood.

I guess you will not avoid sanding especially around this broken/glued part. First it's good to clean it up with mineral spirits especially if they where oil treated.

I don't see any cons for sanding, just use some flat block of wood and wrap it with sanding paper and do it evenly on whole surface. Of course use fine grades 240 or even finer and then you will see what you have.

Possible that those glued part will need some filling but then you will need to find some wood based fillers if you want to keep them raw or stained.

After that it's up to you what effect/color you what to archive.

If you decide to stain, I prefer to use alcohol based die stains as for me they are easier to work. Anyway better to test this before on piece of spare wood/plywood. I'm not a fan of stains on plywood especially on this  kind of bright color woods but this is matter of preferences. 

And especially dark stains as then wood looks not like stained but kind of dirty/crappy painted.

 

 

[OO1]

On 9/10/2023 at 11:27 AM, tragusa3 said:

 1977, I think.

 

50/50 mineral spirits mixed with what?  By abrasive side of sponge, are you referring to the green colored scotch scrubber pad?

 

I don't know anything about the laser badge?  How "special" does that make them?

1977 is correct ,  50/50    mineral spirits / paint thinner  mix works great    ,   cleaning the residues  with a scotch pad avoids scratching the outer birch ply layer  .

[Marvel]

On 9/10/2023 at 9:59 AM, OO1 said:

these speakers were meant to be raw birch vs stained ,

They were sold that way so people could do what they wanted with them.

 

If you oil them, they will get darker over time. A light tint in a thinned poly would also look good and provide protection. Love the naked cabinets.

[tragusa3]

Alright... I did the best I could.  Or should I say, the best I felt like doing for now.  Cleaned them, oiled them with Watco 3x's over 2 days.  I didn't make them perfect, but they are a lot better.  It's a shame someone put the glue on them.  I tried less aggressive solutions, but ended up having to sand it off.  

 

I am interested in putting a wax coat on them.  It sounds like that will protect and give more depth?  If so, what exactly should I buy?

 

Oh they sound soooo sweet!  I have a Khorn system and a LaScala system, but still find myself enjoying 2 channel from Heresies!

 

First pic is before on the right...after on the left

 

[Jive talkin]

Renaissance wax a little goes a long way. Look it up you will be impressed.

[billybob]

Dang, they look nice...a pool sharp too, alright.

[OO1]

  the German shepherd listening to the Heresy playing music ,   cool picture

[tragusa3]

38 minutes ago, OO1 said:

  the german shepherd   listening to the Heresy playing music ,   cool picture

 

[Peter P.]

On 9/15/2023 at 5:48 PM, tragusa3 said:

I am interested in putting a wax coat on them.  It sounds like that will protect and give more depth?  If so, what exactly should I buy?

I use Johnson's Paste Wax. Available at most hardware stores. Brush it on with a short bristle natural hair brush. Wait 15 minutes, rub it off

with a soft cloth. I used 3 coats on my doors to get a soft sheen.

 

Correction: I use MinWax Finishing Paste Wax, not Johnson's.

[tragusa3]

11 minutes ago, Peter P. said:

I use Johnson's Paste Wax. Available at most hardware stores. Brush it on with a short bristle natural hair brush. Wait 15 minutes, rub it off

with a soft cloth. I used 3 coats on my doors to get a soft sheen.

I'm hoping for a deep sheen, similar to the wet look when I first put the oil on.  Will Johnson's do that?

[OO1]

 

11 minutes ago, tragusa3 said:

I'm hoping for a deep sheen, similar to the wet look when I first put the oil on.  Will Johnson's do that?

the product was discontinued , although you might still find some for sale

 

SC Johnson revealed a list of 368 potential skin allergens in its product lines in May 2017  , the product is suspected of being carcinogenic in Category 2, which leads to cancer. Constant exposure (Category 1): causes organ damage because of prolonged or repeated exposure.

 

[tragusa3]

Mounted in their final resting place...at least for the next 30 years.  Beyond that, my sons will have a spot for them. 

Any ideas of how to keep them from falling without those ropes and without screws?

 

[billybob]

Dang, guard dog watching them. Burgundy cloth.

Put a small lip on the edge.

Nice...