OO1 Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 On 10/30/2023 at 1:38 PM, pnort said: Paul Klipsch recommended linseed oil for my walnut Khorns. Nowadays I usually just use lemon oil furniture oil. you can use TRADE SECRET sold on Amazon ( dark bottle ) it's solely natural oils , no VOC's , or chemicals , it will bring out the grain in the walnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the real Duke Spinner Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 On 11/3/2023 at 12:16 AM, DLStryker said: Have you tried steel wool and ScotchBrite pads both? And you preferred ScotchBrite over steel wool? ScotjBrite white pads 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bananas and Blow Posted November 15, 2023 Share Posted November 15, 2023 Any updates on your experiment? I'm curious because I may be looking to restore a set of old Heresy soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 22, 2023 Author Share Posted November 22, 2023 On 11/14/2023 at 7:33 PM, Bananas and Blow said: Any updates on your experiment? I'm curious because I may be looking to restore a set of old Heresy soon. Unfortunately, her is a pic of my progress. I have received all of the treatment products..... just been too busy at work. I'm hoping to get some free time the middle of next month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrT58 Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 FWIW, I rub a walnut (the nut meat itself) over scratches and they disappear fully. If you want to smooth it out, the 0000 steel wool works really well, go WITH the grain and use a light hand. Any of those finishes are good, not sure if anyone else uses it but Odie's oil is good stuff as well and smells great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Ok. Testing begins tonight. The only unfortunate thing is my test speaker is oak. My speakers I eventually will treat are walnut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Pictures added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Rejuvenating oil has been applied. Put on thick enough to leave a wet sheen. Instructions say let stand and wipe off in 10 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Excess Rejuvenating oil was wiped free after 10 minutes. Box to the left. Tung oil was added to box to the right. Liberal amount was applied to assure a wet film was standing. The tung oil is MUCH thicker than the rejuvenating oil. Instructions say to let the tung oil stand for 15 mintes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Excess tung oil was wiped off after 15 minutes. Box to the left. Trade Secret was applied in box to the right and excess immediately wiped off per instructions. Trade Secret definitely darkens up the wood. At least in the Oak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Here is the final product. Restor-A-Finish in top box. Trade Secret in 2nd box down from the top. Tung Oil in 3rd box down from the top and Rejuvenating Oil in the bottom box. Trade Secret definitely darkened up the Oak. I really cannot see much of a difference between the other three. I shined a bright light on them all and still did notice much of a difference. I am going to try to attach a video of me moving the bright light down the side of the box focusing for a second on each of the finishes. The video is probably too large to attach. By the way, the Feed-N-Wax is the second stage of the Restor-A-Finish. I will post a pic after the 20 minute wait time on that product that goes on after the Restor-A-Finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Well, after applying the Feed-N-Wax, over the top of the Restor-A-Finish, that treatment looked the best. Not sure if you will be able to see it in the pic. The treatment left a nice sheen. It does not look wet. Does not look like cleat coat. It does not look like the wood has a oil or treatment on it...... just looks like the wood has been hand rubbed and is very smooth. So, I am not sure if Restor-A-Finish with Feed-N-Wax is the perfect combo..... or if the Feed-N-Was is the sole contributor. Right now, I have a coat of Feed-N-Wax on all of the finishes. I will hand buff that off in about 20 minutes and the I'll share the results. Top box below is the Restor-A-Finish with Feed-N-Wax over the top. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted November 26, 2023 Author Share Posted November 26, 2023 Well... the Feed-N-Wax made all four finished look better!! And it is on no way a wet looking shine or an oil looking finish. Just a very subtle sheen to it. Looks like the wood has been sanded ultra sooth. Like the wood itself has been buffed. I am going to look at all four finishes tomorrow and see if I an pick a favorite. Other than the Trade Secret, the other three finishes look VERY similar. Watco Tung oil is very expensive. Unless it somehow has a longer life between finishing/refinishing, I would not suggest that finish because of cost. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcn3 Posted November 29, 2023 Share Posted November 29, 2023 @DLStryker - did you apply the second coat of tung oil and give 24 hrs for each coat to dry as in the directions? The tung oil definitely lasts longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Invidiosulus Posted December 1, 2023 Share Posted December 1, 2023 Do not get steel wool anywhere near your horns/compression drivers. Small pieces can get pulled in via the magnet and lodge against the diaphragm. Various scotch brite finishing pads work great for application and buffing. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLStryker Posted December 1, 2023 Author Share Posted December 1, 2023 4 hours ago, Invidiosulus said: Do not get steel wool anywhere near your horns/compression drivers. Small pieces can get pulled in via the magnet and lodge against the diaphragm. Various scotch brite finishing pads work great for application and buffing. Good advice! I had no thought if that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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