m00n Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Good gawd, I got to poking around some of Klipsch's cinema gear, that KPT-684 looks like one hell of a sub. Duel 18" drivers? Talk about pushing some air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstanton8 Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Hey Moon: How much are they? How many watts do they need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstanton8 Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 posted twice whoops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 Here is the sub I think I seen it at one place for around $1300ish. That's less than a RSW-15. However, it does not look like it comes with an amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Professor.Ham.Slap Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 Hmmmm... I think I'd have to go with the thumbs down on that one. Check out the specs sheet. Frequency response is 34-1.8kHz (+/-3) and -10 @ 25. That with only 800 watts total power handling, I think your RF-7 drivers would be as good as those in the home market (with a few less SPL). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audible Nectar Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 No m00n, that's a "unit only" - a passive subwoofer. I use similar JBL woofer cabinets - 2 cabs with 2 15" woofers per cab. Such units have pros and cons. The pro is they are "pro" - heavy duty, more than enough woof-age for the job, and very quick. Very high SPL capability - they shake the foundations, that's for sure, but without lingering boom. I cannot and do not use these to the fullest capability, since I do have neighbors, and local law enforcement offices nearby The con is they are not "subwoofers" in the true sense. By the standard set by "the ear", subwoofers are judged by output at 20 hz, which my JBL's roll off steeply below 25 hz. In fact, I use a slight boost at 30 hz, and cut off all input below 20 hz, to avoid damaging the woofers from subsonic signals they are not designed to handle. One more con - they are ugly. They won't get any WAF points (unless you hide 'em with Cornwalls). From 25 hz and above, though, they are da bomb. Upgrading (or down-grading, hehe) to subs capable of similar performance at 20 hz and below is VERY expensive. For 10-20% of what such subs cost (thanks to the JBL tent sale), I'm 5 hz away from ultimate LFE performance. The Klipsch 18's would be fun to audition (as would 18" JBL) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEAR Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 dndphishin said it well mOOn why would you waste time with some bass bins(not real subwoofers)???? Your RSW's with the RF7's provide all the quality punch,now what you need is a true deep bass beast. This spot would be filled with... 1. A pair of SVS Ultra with a Samson 1000 amp plus crossover 2. One Revel B15(yes this sub is damn capable,doubters never heard it) 3. One B2 or better yet the B4-Plus with a K2 amp plus crossover 4. Earthquake 15inch woofer cube monsters(think of it as a BIG Sunfire Sig.) Any in my list will shake N bake,I have the Revel and its shake factor is double that of a Sunfire Signature(trounces the RSW15 in the shake departament). I tell ya,when I listen to a movie I like,its tremor time.I dont use whimpy weak subs.My current weakest sub the Sunfire Super Junior whips any KSW and the RSW10 but I purchased the SJ because its an amazing ultra compact cube,you have to see this thing and wonder how did Bob Carver manage to squeeze all this sub bass in a matchbox!Per cubic inch the SJ is a wonder sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschfoot Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 If you really gotta have the bottom bottom, try out Velodyne HGS series. I sampled one today - the 10" model. This is refined/defined bottom. It is small and can hide under an end table. I had to take off the cover to see the diaphragm moving because the sound was so dispersed. I had an idea for a coffee table subwoofer. That way you can put you feet on it and have a little sensearound. And wouldn't you know it, it has already been done. Especially check out http://www.decware.com/whorn.htm . Groovy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 Heeeeyyyy, WOOOOOOW. I never said I was going t buy one. I was just admiring what that thing must be able to do is all. 2 18" drivers man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted May 13, 2003 Author Share Posted May 13, 2003 ---------------- On 5/13/2003 7:55:51 PM dndphishin wrote: No m00n, that's a "unit only" - a passive subwoofer. ---------------- Why do I get this image in my head of you pointing your finger at me with your eyes glaring and saying.... No m000n bad, bad m000n. You can't have that... Nooooo, all the while shaking your finger at me? Ok so now I need to know since you brought it, I don't fully understand the difference between what this beast is, and what my RSW-15 is exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheEAR Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 For shake factor any of my listed subs takes the HGS10,12 and 15 to school.I know,I tried them and have the HGS18.I am no stranger to Velodyne or the HGS series. Clean and defined they are,some of the very fines music subs made at any price.As for shake factor,they do well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audible Nectar Posted May 13, 2003 Share Posted May 13, 2003 m00n, with your RSW, it has the amp, crossover, phase, etc. in the unit - the pro subs are speakers/cabinet only (passive). So, you must address amplification (not too tough - pro amps work well here and can be had cheap), crossover (in the pre/pro), and mandatory for proper response - an EQ. About the time I got the cabinets, I found someone selling a crown pro amp and Behringer Feedback Destroyer as a cheap package, so I ended up with the whole kit for under 8 bills - both cabs, amp, and EQ - about half the typical street price of an RSW 15. The EQ presents an inherent problem in that it delays the signal a few milliseconds (meaning the subs would play a bit behind), but fortunately my prepro will let me cheat by telling it the subs are closer to the seat than they really are, so trial and error on those adjustments got them in sync with the rest of my system. Also of note is how well the pre/pro's crossover allows the speakers and sub to integrate. I was counting on that crossover to work well, since I had no other option. Mine fortunately works very well, but I was concerned about this as I was assembling the kit. Getting the most out of these certainly required lots of reading on my part. These were anything but an easy solution to good LFE, but the cheap cost was worth the trouble. I did learn a great deal about how to use test tones and the SPL meter though - a few days of practice! Learning the BFD was another week's worth of study. When I first got these JBL's it was like having two large beasts running amok in my living room, me spending days taming and tweaking them for optimum performance and integration into the theater. It took awhile, but I am now quite pleased with the results. Not for the novice (although I was certainly no expert), and certainly not for the impatient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danartdis Posted May 14, 2003 Share Posted May 14, 2003 dndphishin, I agree with just about everything you said in your two well-constructed posts. Our JBL boxes dont quite dig as deep as some of the equipment that is discussed here but they hit pretty hard >30. I am a little embarrassed to admit it but I have never hooked up any equalizer nor have I calibrated the system. It Still sounds great. I keep toying with the idea of replacing it with something that is physically smaller And goes deeper but for <$350 its hard to part with. Just some thoughts. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtximages Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I want this sub too. Right now I am running the Klipsch Chorus IIs with the Forte IIs on top of them. My room, being a basement with brick walls needs alot more bass reinforcement. The Velodyne HGS 18 will NOT cut it (a beastly sub it is). Plus I want to feel the bass big time when playing concert dvd's. What all do I need to hook up to my Harman Kardon receiver? Pro amp. Pre amp? Crossover? Can I not go from the receivers subwoofer out to the pro amp's input? What type of EQ? An EQ just for bass? I like to leave it all flat and not add anything to the signal if possible. Crazy? Ideas? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 It's the three dimensions of the room that'll kill your bass faster than anything. [8] Having brick walls actually helps subwoofer radiation. Don't know why you think otherwise. What are the length, width, and height for starters?...and how loud is loud-enough, for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtximages Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Well theres an alcove at the front of my room. So basically you have about 22ft front to back. 20 ft wide in the alcove. 15 ft wide at the listening position. 8 ft ceiling which is exposed painted floor joistes (basement). Concrete slap, cinder brick walls except the wall i built to the left of the listening position. I have given up on really "good" quality bass. The room is quite boomy and there is a large null area. I am using bass traps in the rear corners (not sure they even helped). I want strong punchy bass alot like what you might hear from a good band. I was at my brothers wedding in charleston this last weekend and the band was phenominal. I want my music to be that punchy, that lively. They had two jbl double 18"s. I was thinking just one of the similar klipsches. I know they dont go to 20hz, you cant hear that in my room anyway. Just something fun that will bring my concert dvds to life again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Have you got all that equipment in your sig down there as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtximages Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Nope: Front: Chorus II and Forte II (Forte sets on top of chorus II) Center: Forte I Rear: Quartet II Sub: Velo HGS18 Receiver: Harman Kardon ARV6000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Nope: Front: Chorus II and Forte II (Forte sets on top of chorus II) Center: Forte I Rear: Quartet II Sub: Velo HGS18 Receiver: Harman Kardon ARV6000 I will tell you this..... a monster sub is not the solution. Where is everything placed in relation to the room? Could you post a sketch? Something with dimensions would be worth a thousand words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I want strong punchy bass alot like what you might hear from a good band.I'd wouldn't recommend the 684 or the 884, if this is what you desire to achieve. The 684 and 884 are direct radiators, and they tend to present a muddier bass to my ears. I'd instead recommend a large horn-loaded subwoofer--it sounds like you've got the room for one... "djk" (Dennis) doesn't recommend the smaller Fitzmaurice Tuba series, but there are tapped horn subs from Danley and conventional horn-loaded subs from JBL, BASSMAXX, EAW, and others. I'm told that the larger Fitzmaurice THT (too big to get through a standard doorway) has a lot of authority, but its downside is size. In particular, I'd recommend the Danley TH series because they're relatively small and they usually have a very low -3 dB cutoff frequency (something that the KPT-684 doesn't have). They don't take very much power to drive, and they will really put the punch back into your system. The DTS-10 is one that is cited most often, but there are also other Danley tapped-horn sub models that put out even more than the DTS-10. You'l have your best results if you do not try to crossover the Danley TH subs above ~50-60 Hz. There are also DIY kits at DIYAudio.org that are very inexpensive. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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