Loudisbeautiful Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Q man, Let me know if you still have alk xovers....i would like to buy a pair.... jpfream@hotmai.com Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 I think that Al K. either under-rated the fuses in the ALK's or that the quality control on the fuses that he used are questionable. I have ALK's in my Khorns and I have also blown the fuse in one of them. So I removed both fuses as being essentially pointless. I was nowhere near 80 watts avg. either, which is well below what the speakers themselves can handle safely... Don't panic yet... DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctiger2 Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 I'd be interested in the ALK's too. If you really decide to part with them....lemme know. God Bless You PWK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parrot Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 Guys, this thread is 6 months old. Q-Man sold these long ago, if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
space_cowboy Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 OMG!.............Good catch Parrot............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Phillips Posted March 16, 2004 Share Posted March 16, 2004 To determine the fuse value for the entire speaker: · Divide the continuous power rating of the speaker by 6 · Take the square root of that result and divide by two 100 watts divided by 6 = 16.666666666.. / Square root of this is 4.08248290463 / Divide by 2 = 2.04124.(2 amp) 55 watts = 1.51 amp fuse size Some of our Pro speakers use a 1.5 amp in the HF and 3 for the LF. This is just a starting place and may be increased a little at a time if higher levels are required. It is much easier and cheaper to replace a fuse than the component that you may have to replace..... And yes I noticed the post was an old one.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 I have also blown a fuse in my home made ALKs....with a HK430,,,,watching Pearl Harbor movie..i thnk fuse is on the small side....but my question is after it blew the upper horns still worked,,,so does the fuse really protect the tweeter???I replaced it with a little higher amp fuse,,,,no problems so far and believe me i tried to see if i could blow the fuse i had in there,,,,i couldnt,,,lol....Hey Al is the upper horns supose to still work after fuse blows??? thanks Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtaylor Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Hey Q, I might be interested in a pair of your alk's when you decide to sell them. Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Man Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 As Paul said, I sold both pairs to Forum members long ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Guys, I put a 1 1/2 amp fuse in my networks when I build them. This is the value PWK suggested. It is a conservitive value and I use that value for "CYA" reasons. I would rather have a fuse blow than a woofer driver! You CAN increase the size a bit, but it isn't wise. Most fuse blowing is becasue you are pushing power at extreme low frequency into a horn that won't go that low! A better solution to fuse blowing is the crank DOWN the bass control a bit! You won't hear 20 Hz through a Khorn or LaScala no matter how much power to throw into it. You WILL blow either the woofer or the fuse though. Take your pick. I would rather blow the fuse myself! Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggy Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 I have on occasion peaked over 300 watts and have not blown a fuse. The key is very clean power. McIntosh meters are pretty darn accurate. My amp has a hold feature on the meters. I use it when I want to listen loud. Seeing how the watts double for every 3db increase of sound it's easy with the right music to peak this high of power. I agree wholeheartedly with the statement about ears bleeding if the power is NOT clean. If one is putting 80 watts continuos power into their hearitage speakers they are probably peaking in the 300 watts area which is very, very loud. hoggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxg Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Simple question - How do you measure the watts going into your speakers? Do you do it directly or infer it by measuring the SPL at 1 meter and work backwards, knowing the sensitivity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Do you do it directly or infer it by measuring the SPL at 1 meter and work backwards It really needs to be done properly using either watt meters or some other testing method. You can't really go by the speaker spec and an SPL meter -- especially with tube amps. Making things even more difficult is if you keep in mind that instantaneous peaks are usually 20 to 30 times higher than the meter shows. Something that happens for a millisecond or less just isn't going to be picked up by the meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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