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ric

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I am not sure if anyone mentioned Tara Labs Klara cable at a dollar a foot. I bought some. A really nice cable once broken in it is a tad smoother sounding to the horns but still has good if not better detail than my monster original. It's really hard to tell my system keeps getting better slowly. So it is definetly helping. I have truly a sound i can finally live with. Alot has to do with aquiring an older harman. It also one an award that cable for hometheater speaker wire. A dollar a foot isn't to bad for the quality of it.

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On 3/21/2004 2:20:07 AM wheelman wrote:

I am not sure if anyone mentioned Tara Labs Klara cable at a dollar a foot. I bought some. A really nice cable once broken in it is a tad smoother sounding to the horns but still has good if not better detail than my monster original. It's really hard to tell my system keeps getting better slowly. So it is definetly helping. I have truly a sound i can finally live with. Alot has to do with aquiring an older harman. It also one an award that cable for hometheater speaker wire. A dollar a foot isn't to bad for the quality of it.

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You gotta understand, bro. The people here that are arguing against "expensive" cable (meaning anything that costs more than 10-2 electrical wire) aren't going to listen to you talking about any kind of brand name.

You'll never catch me buying Monster, as I feel the cost/benefit ratio is poor. You won't see me sell it either, despite having a distro that I can easily buy it through. That doesn't mean I don't believe in speaker wire having an impact on sound quality, even with similar gauge/different construction.

Sorry, but traditional zip cord doesn't sound very good to me, therefore I look for other options.

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On 3/21/2004 2:38:12 AM wheelman wrote:

I was only trying to answer Ric's original question. Not what it turned into. I guess i didn't do to good of a job. My tara labs zip cord sound better than the thick guage monster original with my system. I am not saying it will with all.

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At a buck a foot, I'd hardly call it "zip cord". 2.gif

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On 3/21/2004 2:55:48 AM wheelman wrote:

True true but if you only need lets say 14 foot. Is forteen really that expensive to spend on it when these guys buy 3000 heretages. I am on an incredably tight budget and i can swing it. The shipping would be about half the price.
1.gif

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LOL! Indeed. Although I just shipped 150' of Ultralink challenger 12 gauge "zip cord" at 0.88 per foot to Jared, and it cost me $14 and change to ship it.

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I use monster superFLAT in "white" on my rear and rear surrounds for 3 reasons....

1. its FLAT--easy to run under things without drilling holes and such...goes right under rugs without any kind of buldge...

2. its very soft---easily bends, very forgiving---MUCH more bendable than your ordinary wires--goes around corners without problems....

3. it, despite how soft and flat it is--is actually 12 g.

other than these points---if you can use 12 g. home-depot wireing and you don't care about the cosmetics or don't see the wire---use 12 g home depot wireing and spend your saved money elsewhere...

I'm not sure electrons are sentient beings so, I don't think the care too much about the "vehicle" that they travel in...but...I'm no EE so what do I know...

PS: i got a great deal on a error cut length of this stuff--I didn't pay anywhere near the 1.50 a ft they claim it costs...I think I paid around 65 cents a ft...

if you contact some install places they sometimes have some wrong cut lengths or some "dirty" cable (the stuff is white--but it gets dirty and then hard to sell...) if you're willing to lay it out and give it a quick wipe down (takes very little time) you can get a great deal....

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Some will say that you must use Monster Cables thick enough to tow a car with in order to get true sound. I succumbed to that 2 years ago, but no longer believe it is necessary. I now use the 16 guage oxygen free wire from Home Depot and I haven't noticed a discernable difference. Your wallet will thank you!2.gif

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Not sure if very thick cables would make a difference with Klipsch Speakers.

My understanding on this is that there are 4 most important components when to comes to Speaker Cables

1. Resistance- Constant for All Current

2. Inductance - varies as a function of Frequency of voltage

3. Capacitance - Varies as a function of Frequency of voltage

4. Current - Function of the Speaker Impedance , Cable Impedance & Speaker Sensitivity.

The more sensitive the speaker..the less power required to drive it and hence less current flowing thru the cable

The higher the speaker impedence, lower the current required

The higher the rate of change of voltage (High Frequency) the Inductive effect gets more prominent..hence the advantage of Flat cables which have very Low impedence in High frequency..and hence better response.

Hence in cases of Klipsch speakers...which might require less than 10-20 times the power than other speakers, the the current would be around 3-4 times less hence the effect of wire impedence would be much lesser and hence not so noticable

but for some other High End equipment whese these are more notocable...speaker cables do make more impact...but as per what I have come across the variation in sound is most caused by

1. speakers

2. Source

3. Amp

4. Interconnects

5. Speaker Cables

6. Power cables

while ..speakers source and Amps cause more than 80-90 % of the changes in sound... it miht make sense to uses these cables as tone controls Only after all other tweaks have been done....eg just providing proper isolation as well as Damping to the CDP produces a much more prominent Impact that a Speaker cable change......

Personally i have only been able to notice a change from Nordost to Goertz...toehrwise the changes are too subtle to be noticed by my ears !

my $.02 12.gif

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I have taken a lot of time to read EVERY post on this thread and I think that you are ALL wrong! It is clear that large cables are better. Also the general opinion is that a flexible wire with lots of strands is best. I therefore submit that we should all rip out all the wire we have and replace it with 4 0 (0000) welding cable.3.gif This stuff is SUPER flexible, made of MICRO strands and can flow so much current that you could light a small city with it (ok possibly only a few houses (GRIN)) We should then flush the cables with inert gas (to remove any O2) gold solder the ends to form a solid lug, re-flush the cable with gas and seal it, then form the solid lugs into banana shaped ends (we all know that there is resistance in every connection so to use separate plugs is only adding to resistance!) and insert them into the connects of our speakers. There could be a problem with making an end to fit the speaker jacks as the wire starts out as large as your ..... well. This should lead to the ultimate sonic nirvana! (Please take all the above as a comment on the cable discussion only. I am not responsible for anyone trying the above, though it would be less expensive than buying some of the "special" cables GRIN!)

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Ok, after my attempt at humor above, I looked at the sad shape of my own speaker wires (many many years old and only 16 ga to boot) and decided to upgrade. I went out and bought a spool of 10 ga super flex O2 free copper wire U.S.A made,($28 for 50 at a local home theater/electronics supply house) and replaced my wires. Well, I might be crazy but I really dont hear much if any change. It would have been great to report that there was this wonderful expansion of signal and that I was bowled over with the difference, but I wasnt. Im sure that the quality of the signal to the speakers is better, it has to be with the improved cable and size but, Oh well, it didnt cost that much to do.

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