fini Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 Sorry to post this in multiple places, but I only have until tomorrow afternoon to decide on some AR3 speakers. I know, inefficient dinosaurs, but they'd probably go on eBay. If you'd like to diagnose the tweeter and mid problem, click here. fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 I'll have to agree with Mark, fini. As much as I would like to restore my brothers AR11's, the cost appears to be prohibitive. I could buy a pair of Heresy's for what repair costs will be. So for now, the AR11's are on ice. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundthought Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 Hello Fini. The five colors blind the eye. The five tones deafen the ear. The five flavors dull the taste. Racing and hunting madden the mind. Precious things lead one astray. Therefore, the sage is guided by what he feels and not by what he sees. He lets go of that and chooses this. Lao Tsu. 6th Century, BC. Hope this helps. Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 1, 2003 Author Share Posted October 1, 2003 Does anyone know of any Chinese philosophers who might have copies of old audio magazines? fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 I think Lao Tsu had issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundthought Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 I do have a question. I just built a 20 x 28 car hole. It's got a 5/12 pitch. I hand built my trusses with 2x6s. I'm using scrap peices of 3/8"OSB for gussets. I also used 2x6s for the rafters. I'm on 2' centers. It's all stud on stud framing. I tied in the gables with 2x4s. My question is...do I need to run struts from the gusset pockets to the rafters or am I supported well enough? Thanks, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 I think Lao Tsu knew all. Thanks for that, Audioreality. Beyond that, I've a friend who got two mint Frazier Mark IV's for 60.00. No AR ever sound as good as these except at ONE fixed level with a LOAD of power. AR's could sound good...on their own terms. Personally, I like my speakers to respond to my desires, not vice versa. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 1, 2003 Author Share Posted October 1, 2003 John, I don't understand the question. Usually, a truss is both a collar tie ceiling joist) and a roof rafter, all in one. Describe the trusses you're using. Of course, roof engineering is going to be dependent on where you live (snow?), the expected load, and of course, local code. Can you take a picture? Worth 1000 words (or empty beer cans...). fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 1, 2003 Author Share Posted October 1, 2003 Dave, You like your speakers like you like your women... fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundthought Posted October 2, 2003 Share Posted October 2, 2003 Fini, No pictures available. I'm in the stone age over here with my lousy WebTV. Ha Ha. It sucks. I'm still getting a grip on the proper terminology. Please bear with me. I've done plenty of small scale carpentry, the big stuff is still fairly new to me. I am learning, though. I'll try to describe my situation in better detail. Let's see.... The garage has already passed inspection. I'm just trying to over-build it as much as possible. Code here is a collar tie every 4 feet. I have mine very 2. The 2x6 roof joists are notched and fit on the top plate. The 2x6 collar ties are screwed to the sides of the roof joists. My question concerns webing inside the truss. What i'm talking about is running 2x4s from ceiling joists (collar ties) to the peak. The inspector said it wasn't nessisary, but like I said, i'm trying to overbuild it. Say at max, we get about 2 foot of snow accumulation on the roof or I decide to put in a chain fall for engine pulling. Should I have the extra lateral support of 2x4s redistributing the weight from the peak down to the collar ties and vise-verse? Does that make sense at all? I've seen almost all pre-fab 2x4 trusses with some sort of webbing inside for increased structural integrity. At least that's what i'm assuming it's there for. What do ya think? Regards, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 2, 2003 Author Share Posted October 2, 2003 Good description, John! Yes it couldn't hurt to add a bit more to the structure. In a typical truss (manufactured or site-built), all the elements (rafter, joist, called "chords") are in the same plane. In other words, not lapped, as your rafters and joists are, at the plate line (at the wall). Here is a picture to illustrate. Notice the gussets at all connection points. If I were you (and who knows...maybe I am you), I would go ahead and add that center vertical member. But because the rafter and joist lap, I would gusset the connection at the peak, and lap the connection at the joist, keeping all the chords vertical. Does this make sense? Also, I would make 2X to 2X connections with 16d nails, not screws, as most screws (like drywall-type screws) are brittle, and don't have very much shear strength. You might want to go back and add a few nails to the joist/rafter connection at the plate (unless you're sure the screws used spec for this application). I'm a carpenter, not an engineer, remember . fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundthought Posted October 2, 2003 Share Posted October 2, 2003 Hi Fini. Excellent. It does make alot of sense. Great picture. BTW I'm going to add the middle members and tie them in as you suggested. I didn't think about tying in the outside corners with gussets. I'll address that issue as well. And yes sir, I will go back and shoot some 16d into the chords. Thank you for your input. It's much appreciated. I owe you one, my friend. Regards John P.S. The Klipsch BB never ceases to amaze me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile homeless Posted October 2, 2003 Share Posted October 2, 2003 Hey Fini, will you come here and do my bathroom? Bring Mdeneen along and we could cause some serious trouble! kh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 2, 2003 Author Share Posted October 2, 2003 I'm glad that helped. One point, though. Since you've lapped the connection at the plateline (wall) between the rafter and the joist, there is no need (or way) to use a gusset there. The nails will be fine. One other suggestion would be to use some sort of metal connector from the rafter to the wall plate. Simpson Strong-Tie makes a variety of connectors. A commonly used one is the H-1, commonly called a hurricane clip. Check them out at Home Depot. fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundthought Posted October 2, 2003 Share Posted October 2, 2003 Oh, your right. Ha Ha. Looking at it, just now, I can see what your saying. Cool. Hurricane straps. Gotcha. Will do. For some reason, I didn't mention this before. My initial concern surrounding the lateral ties was related to conserving the maximium amount of "attic" overhead storage while not comprimising structural integrity. I'm not against webbing, rather i'm into keeping as much overhead storage space as possible. The more I thought about it, the more I became concerned with the structural issue. Thank you very much for your time, Fini. You're the man! Regards, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 2, 2003 Author Share Posted October 2, 2003 Oh boy! Doors! Every carpenter has his own way of doing this. I will tell you mine. Here's the short version (call me for more details). Your rough opening size is perfect (for 3/4" jamb stock). You want shimming room. Assuming you've got an un-beveled door blank, you'll want to bevel the strike side, so that when the door swings, it doesn't bind. A 3-degree bevel will be fine. Next, mortise the hinges into the door, and into the jamb. Depending on the weight of the door, you'll use 2 or 3 hinges (I guess you'll be matching the existing hardware?). The side jambs should be mortised to accept the head jamb. Cut the jambs so that you end up with about 3/32" all the way around (except at the bottom, where you'll leave it long, depending on your flooring, throw rugs, etc. You can always trim the door a bit, too). Don't forget when cutting the head jamb to account for the mortise in the side jambs. Assemble the parts (jambs, hinges, door), over saw horses or a table, tacking the jamb to the door. this way you know it all fits. Remove the hinge pins and take the assembled jambs off the door. Some carpenters like to hang the jamb with the door still attached. Some people like to wrestle bears, too. I don't. I like to hang the jamb without the door. Your favorite tool here is a long level. I like a 78" model. Shim the hinge jamb plumb, with shims exactly behind the hinges. Leave the shims long, so you can tap them in or out to make the adjustments always needed. Nail through the jambs and the shims. Now, here's the important part: Replace some of the standard length hu inge screws with longer screws, driving them into the studs. This anchors the door directly to the stud (most important with solid core doors, less so with the hollow variety). Check again with the level. You will more than likely need to readjust something. When it's good, hang the door on the hinges. Shim and nail the rest of the jamb, using the door as your guide (keep an even reveal all around). Make sure the door swings properly before cutting the shims and installing casing. How's that, Mark? Kelly, send plane tickets. I will need one ticket for myself, one for Mark, and one for the tools. fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkrop Posted October 2, 2003 Share Posted October 2, 2003 " I knew I could count on all yous guys." Spend some time in western PA? Take the speakers back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 2, 2003 Author Share Posted October 2, 2003 I may try and get them to drop them down to that $50 threshold...not likely, though. I wonder if those woofers would work in my AR LST's? They're a bit different, though. fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cluless Posted October 2, 2003 Share Posted October 2, 2003 fini, Can you Pleeeease help with this? I just can't seem to get it right. thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted October 2, 2003 Author Share Posted October 2, 2003 Mark, Yes, the Ryobi saw would be a good way to go, finishing it off with a sander. You'd obviously want some good help, catching the door as it comes off the backside of the table. As far as avoiding the bevel all together, yeah, you could just increase the gap on the strike side. Play it by ear. fini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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