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RF-7 crossovers (upgraded)


Deang

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I hate the PCBs, they really make too much work out of something that is really quite simple. I can do the same thing on Baltic Birch boards in less than half the time.

The big cap is an ICW Clarity Cap. The value is large, and I really wanted to break things up and use two Auricaps in parallel -- but measuring things out showed it would have taken up more room, and made fitting more problematic than the 630v Clarity Cap. The cap goes in the LCR notch circuit for the tweeter. I believe these caps to be as good or better than the Auricaps, as they are used in the B&W Nautilus.

I drilled out the plastic receivers (or whatever they're called) to accomodate larger screws to attach the top layer, and I used PVC tubing for the spacers.

I had some left over custom wound inductors from Madisound for the tweeter, and so replaced the stock ones.

One thing I would love to do some day is try some Blackgate AC electrolytics on the woofer. It would sure make the build a lot easier, and I seriously doubt there would be any degradation in woofer response.

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Dean,

Very nice work. There's not a lot of room on those circuit boards.

Where are those crossovers going? and .. did you condition the caps? .. and did you change the resistance in the shaping circuit?

The final question, for the person using the crossovers .. how does it sound? I think there are going to be some surprised people out there when they begin to hear how good the RF-7 can sound with a little crossover work.

Leo

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Awesome job Dean on my Crossovers!! You really outdid yourself this time1.gif They look awesome, those components are 3 times bigger than what was on them when i shipped them out to you.

Cant wait to recieve them this week!!!10.gif And once i get these bad boys, my brothers KG 5.5 crossovers are going off to you for your magic right afterward.

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"...did you change the resistance in the shaping circuit?"

Yes, I drop that value by .25 ohms, and all caps were "conditioned" with the Leo Capper Zapper.

I'm getting ready to build some boards with the stock parts. When completed, I'm going to swap them with the boards currently pushing my son's RF-7s. The swap can be made in a few minutes. The plan is do an hour of listening, then make the switch. It's been a long time since I've heard them in stock form, and I need to do it so I can get a good handle on describing the changes.

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On 2/16/2004 12:34:17 PM leok wrote:

I think GF is going to be one very pleasantly surprised individual.

Leo

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Yes, I sure am!! My brothers KG crossovers are bieng sent Wednesday to Dean so that those puppies can get updated as well1.gif I am very impressed with the KG 5.5 speakers, very dynamic and have monsterous bass. I was watching Queen: Greatest video hits on DVD and it sounds like im there at the concert, excellent and dynamic soundstage and thunderous deep bass.

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When using Auricaps in crossovers how do the leads go in the circuit? Heres a paste from the auricap application guide:

****************************************************************************

Leads:

In signal path applications the black lead is "in" and the red lead is "out."

In power supplies the black lead should be connected to ground and the red lead to the + or voltage.

In loudspeaker crossovers the red lead should be connected toward the + terminal on the drive unit.

****************************************************************************

So what do they mean by the + on the drive unit? Do they mean the amp or the speaker?

Thanks,

Bob

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This one of my problems with using some of the esoteric parts -- the marketing B.S.

I've read more about passive parts then I care to admit. I found myself drifting away from the manufacturing sites towards DIY sites, and sites offering tututorials in electronics. Once you see and understand how wrap and fill non-polar caps are built, and what their functions are -- you begin to see how manufacturers merely use things like "directionality" in an attempt to differentiate, and separate their parts out from the more common choices. Yes, I didn't see it before, but now I see how special your capacitors are. Really, it's complete and utter bullsh!t.

Directional cables are funny too.

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Tom, I never wrote a full length review of the new Klipschorn, though I have made comments about them in other threads here and there. While waiting for them to completely break-in, I have had some amplifier problems (bias resistors kept frying). Now that I've finally got that straightened out -- I'm back to consistant listening.

How come these resistors kept frying? I mean, surely I was never really over a watt or two.9.gif

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Dean,

Looks like nice work your doing there. Sure wish I had the chance to listen to a modified crossover RF-7s. Actually I've never heard the RF-7s period. I never did take you up on the Cornwall Crossover plunge... still debating in my mind about that move.

Leok, have you ever taken a look at your RB-5 crossovers?

- tb

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On 2/18/2004 1:49:14 PM tbabb wrote:

Dean,

Looks like nice work your doing there. Sure wish I had the chance to listen to a modified crossover RF-7s. Actually I've never heard the RF-7s period. I never did take you up on the Cornwall Crossover plunge... still debating in my mind about that move.

Leok, have you ever taken a look at your RB-5 crossovers?

- tb

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I would say do it, any little thing you can do to tweak out these speakers will only make them better, if you want the absolute best sound from your speakers then take the plunge, im sure you will not be sorry.

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Well, they may not look like much, but a big part of what makes the RF-7 sound as good as it does is that circuit. The engineering folks at Klipsch have great tools, make good use of them -- and have great ears to boot. No parts upgrade mod is going to do much of anything if the circuit sucks. Better can only be "better" if it's good to begin with.

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