Klipsch RF7 Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 Contact DeanG, he is in the 2 channel forum. He has modified my RF-7 and KG 5.5 crossovers and the man does excellent work and great prices, He uses top quality components that really bring these speakers to life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_me_the_dude Posted February 25, 2004 Author Share Posted February 25, 2004 Thanks GFH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipsch RF7 Posted February 25, 2004 Share Posted February 25, 2004 ---------------- On 2/25/2004 4:01:12 PM just_me_the_dude wrote: Thanks GFH ---------------- No problem, Lets just say that you will not be dissapointed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantfmly Posted February 27, 2004 Share Posted February 27, 2004 sorry for post with nothing in it did it by accident Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 I think Analogman needs to up his medication a little. I thought STL did a nice job answering the question, and I didn't he was "harsh" at all. I would advise against making any changes to the actual circuit. Klipsch engineers know what they are doing. They know all of the driver parameters and specifications -- and I'm sure they spent many hours with the modeling programs, as well as much hard listening. The RF-3 and RF-5 have many differences -- most noteably -- the horn size, and the size of the cabinet. I suspect all of the values in the crossover between the two are completely different from each other. At any rate, you aren't going to turn the RF-3 into an RF-5 by simply changing the value of a capacitor. It would take a complete revoicing, and all the wonderful math that entails -- to come up with the proper inductance and resistance values. Your best option is simply to upgrade the quality of the parts in the circuit. Leave the circuit alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STL Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 Thanks Dean. I don't think some people realize how much real-world tweaking Klipsch does to tune these speakers (and thus crossovers). You can only do so much with theoretical models, and without the proper test equipment -- not to mention an anechoic chamber -- one is not likely to improve a speaker's crossover by changing circuit values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenquito Posted September 19, 2004 Share Posted September 19, 2004 http://diyaudio.chez.tiscali.fr/RF-3_3II.pdf I would like to change the components of the filter of my RF3 MK2, but did not find coil of 0.75mH, 0.3mH, 0.25mH... and capacitor of 18µF 12µF and 4.5µF. There is 0.68mh, 0.82mh, 0.22mh, 0,27mh and 0.33mh For the capacitor I have MKP SOLEN of 15µF, 10µF, 4.7µF, 3.3µF, 2.2µF and 1µF WHO have already tweak his filters of RF3 MK2? THX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMays Posted September 20, 2004 Share Posted September 20, 2004 DeanG, I have been in communication with you for the RF-7 upgrade, which I will be pleased if you would do. The original poster does have a question I was wondering about and will ask here to perhaps clarify for him/me. Do you also do the RF-3ii upgrades? I have these at my surround position but listen to alot of hi res music and was curious. Again thanks for your prompt reply's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiob Posted September 20, 2004 Share Posted September 20, 2004 ---------------- On 2/21/2004 2:08:53 AM analogman wrote: STL, Just give your friends at Klipsch a call, they'll clear it up! Analogman ---------------- Son, you need to spend some time down here with me gator huntin, that will mellow ya out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenquito Posted September 21, 2004 Share Posted September 21, 2004 and for my question ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsmyforte Posted September 21, 2004 Share Posted September 21, 2004 ---------------- On 9/21/2004 6:09:05 AM Zenquito wrote: and for my question ? ---------------- you say you have an RF3II, well the schematic you posted is for an RF3. they must have made changes to the xover in the mkII. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenquito Posted September 21, 2004 Share Posted September 21, 2004 it is the Klipsch support which gave it to me... RF3 and MK2 have the same schematic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 "I would like to change the components of the filter of my RF3 MK2, but did not find coil of 0.75mH, 0.3mH, 0.25mH. There is 0.68mh, 0.82mh, 0.22mh, 0,27mh and 0.33mh." I'm guessing that what you are saying is that you would like to upgrade the inductors above, but cannot find exact matches -- is that it? I ask, because it could also be taken to mean you pulled the inductors off the board, and the values do not match what is on the schematic. I will assume the former -- since you last listed four inductor values. To get an exact match (or very close), it is not always possible to use the brand you would like to use, sometimes you must use what is available, and be happy with the knowledge that it is still better than stock. For Reference speakers, I really like the Janzten Audio inductors. 75mH: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=255-416&DID=7 .30mH: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=255-028&DID=7 .25mH: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=255-026&DID=7 Now, the HF inductors will be a bit bigger than stock, and you will HAVE to mount one flat, and one veritcal. Line the vertical one up with the center on the hole of the one you choose to lie flat. If you lay them both down together flat on the PCB, will end up with quite a bit of mutual inductance. After you do this, you will have a hell of time mounting the caps -- which is why I don't screw with the inductors anymore. Since you have the schematic, another option would be building separate boards with point-to-point wiring. For the 18uF value on the woofer, I would run two 9.1uFs in parallel. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-566&DID=7 I would NOT, do NOT use Solens in the HF circuit -- they're hashy and grainy. 4.5uF is an odd value, so I would parallel up two 2.2uF Auricaps. The Auricaps run just tad bit on high side, so I think that would be just about perfect. I can get you the 2.2uFs, as well as the 12uFs at OEM prices. The total would be $78.16, which includes shipping. You can also buy them direct from www.percyaudio.com -- you can find the Auricaps near the end of the catalog. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 Phil -- I can do anything I can get my hands on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMays Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 OK Dean...I have a set of Bose 301's, can you make them sound like K-horns Just Kidding! As I posted before I am going to get your upgrades and I will do the RF-3II's and now that I know this even my KLF-20's. So cool, I can't wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zenquito Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 If I install 0,68 or 0,82 instead of 0,75 this will not change enormously.... no ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Well, .68 is over 15% away from the ideal, and .82 is 10%. So, go with the latter if you must -- but why not use the right value if you have it? Also, the inductance value should not be your only concern. The inductor in question is in series with the woofer, so you also have to stay close to the original DCR value of .3. If you are thinking about using an air core larger than 14/15 gauge -- don't do it, as you will only ruin the box/driver/port alignment. The inductor I gave you has the correct inductance value, and the DCR is only off by .04. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 I'd never tried replacing the inductors on the HF section before, so I thought I would give it a whirl. Not too painful really. I used 3M double sided tape, and then went to it with the hot melt. I first use the hot melt to "glue" things down, and then I go back and use it strategically to "hold" things together. I just let the glue wrap around the spots I don't want to move. It works good. Things are solid, and you get a little bit of extra mass and damping to boot. I lightly scuff the bottom of the caps with some 220 sandpaper -- and it really helps to aid adhesion. The two 9uF Auricaps aren't on the board yet. I'll stack them, and then lean them over towards the inductors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Here's the LF section using the 15 gauge Janzten air core. Same deal -- used the 3M double sided tape, tie strapped it using the OEM holes, and then hit it with the hot melt. I wrap the Solen with shrink tape -- this cap sits right behind the woofer, and I guess I just want to give it some damping. Probably doesn't make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 The back of the boards -- cleared of the old solder, cleaned, with the leads through the holes and ready to solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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