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What's wrong the EV 1823M driver?


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The K-55-M is a custom designed and built driver that has the internal part number 18xx (1848, I believe). An EV tech told me it was very similar to the 1823, but taylored to meet Klipsch' specs.

Any driver can be misapplied and perform poorly. I don't think anybody should look down their nose at the 1823.

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The 1823 and 1824 were used in EV hi-fi speakers such as the Sentry III. It's a good driver but you need to use a tweeter; many DIY hornys would rather use metal diaphragm Altec and JBL drivers that don't need tweeters.

I used to make speakers with the 1823 and 1824 and a pal of mine has a DIY dipole horn system using them.

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John- I didn't know that about the 18xx series.

Do you happen to know any specific differences between the two?

I have to agree with your statement regarding misapplication of drivers.

But i'm wondering...

Other than impeadance, operating range, and sensitivity, are there any other factors that could be relevant in deciding proper application?

I've been running a set of 1823Ms' in my K-5-Js through the stock WE-2 networks of my '57 Khorns.

They sound great. IMO.

Alot better than the University SAHF landmines that were in there.

The kicker is, that in order to get them to sound proper, i've had to run the source input signal into an old AudioControl model 520 to bring the mid-band down by 6 decibles before it reaches the Jolida 202A.

I know that sounds crazy, but it really works good and I want to keep the WE2s bone stock, so trimming the incoming mids only made sense.

Is this considered misapplication?

I've made myself believe that it's only experimentation, but maybe a reality check is in order for me.9.gif8.gif

Tom- I have a pair of SentryIII crossovers that I was considering shoe-horning into my Khorns just for $hits and giggles.

Maybe this is just what the doctor ordered.

Can I pick your brain about them?

I enjoy learning as much about my gear as possible.

I got my set of 1823Ms from a pair of big-ole white EV 6040s, that I picked up from an old rock and roller.

Remember the 6040s?

He was running them as tweeters....

Is that funny or what?

How ironic you should say that about their range.

I mean they are, after all, specifically made as a mid-range driver.

Even says it right on the nomenclature.

Why would you want to use it as a tweeter?

Ha Ha.

Am I right to assume that the reasoning behind using the horns you mentioned is directly related to keeping a loudspeaker in a 2 way configuration?

That would make alot of sense.IMO


He asked what I was going to do with those big-ole bastards.

I grinned and replied,"I dunno...might just strap them to the top of my Bronco for one hellofa mobile PA system."

.....I think he belived me.

ha ha ha



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I don't know anything factual beyond what I've said. The driver was made specially for Klipsch. It is close enough to the K-55-V that the disphragms will go into the other driver. However, the voice coils rub if you put the wrong diaphragm in.

The K-55-M is 107 to 108 dB/w in the K-400 horn. 6 dB sounds like too much. Why don't you build a custom Type AA for your modified K-horn.

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Thanks for your input, John.

Yeah, 6dB is alot....even for me. 1.gif

I do see myself engineering a few sets of different crossovers for my Khorns.

I'm just not technically advanced nor physically ready to undertake such an endeavor.

Maybe by this fall.

We'll see.

My "57s are worth it.

IMHO, I think the pre-"63 Khorn is an excellent foundation by which to run various horn/driver/crossover combinations.

I'm constantly pondering the possibilities which they have to offer.

I love it.

Whoever said that K-horns are an "end-all" speaker wasn't joking.

They are amazing critters to say the least.

I can see why it might take someone a lifetime to get bored with them.



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There is nothing wrong with an EV 1823M.


The throat size is wrong for any Klipsch horn, over twice the area.

The impedance will require crossover modification.

The sensitivity is different and will require crossover modification.

The frequency response is not as flat, doesn't go as low as a K55, or as high, and will require crossover modification.

Other than that, you're good to go.

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That's it?

Aww hell....i'm in like Flynn.

Ha Ha Ha J/K

(no offense AF) :)

Thanks for your reply DJK.

I didn't know that about the throat size.

In which manner is it too big?

I have them coupled to my K-5-Js and they absolutely sing.

For the record.

Please, Don't take me wrong here.

When I say something sounds good, though it is only my opinion, it is in direct comparison to many other speakers that I frequently listen to.

I have most of the worthwhile Klipsch models and literally hundreds of other timeless classics that I change in and out like some people change their socks.

I just don't want to give any of you the impression that i'm another one of those "Oh My God, this sounds so much better than my boombox", kinda guys.

I'm not. :)

I'm just trying to understand why these 1823M sound so damn good in these K-5-Js.

In all fairness to the University SAHFs that came stock, those puppies have crazy range.

I had them putting out sound to the extremes of the audble range.

Albeit a very non-linear output, they were still making noise.

It's too bad they don't sound very good with the K-5-J.

Thank you, gentlemen, for your responses.

It's much appreciated.



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"In which manner is it too big?"

K55 is 0.7", EV is 1", area goes with the square of the radius so a 1" has twice the throat area.

1-3/8" 18 drivers can go from 5/8" to 1.2"

"I have them coupled to my K-5-Js and they absolutely sing."

So did mine when I removed the rubbing and buzzing SAHF and replaced with an Altec 808. Any working driver often sounds better than any damaged driver.

There are two adaptors on a K5J, 5/8" thread on entry to 1" bolt on exit, and 1" to rectangle. Parts Express sells a 1" thread on entry to 1" bolt on exit that should be used here.

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