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Sonic Impact amp and Heresys


TBrennan

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You guys talk about HK x30 series, i have a x40 series. I'm thinking their totally different beasts because my 1974 Yamaha CA-800 integrated amp does WONDERS for the detail of the music compared to what the 340 puts out. Either way the Yamaha beats my HK hands down, so i can either buy this new tiny portable amp or put the money into fixin the yammi.

http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/sonicimpact/t.html

with reviews like the above URL, it really makes the SI look tempting at least.

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I'm sorry, I didn't see what was wrong with your Yammy? Is it on injured reserve?

The SI will need a few things to use regularly. Figure $25 for the power adapter (unless you plan to use batteries ad infinitum), and $5 for a RCA female pair -> stereo plug to get the CDP input into the amp. So that's another $30. Still cheap, but it may stretch your budget a little.

Let us know what's up with the Yammy.

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A couple of months ago I bought a Panasonic walkman style CD player for $44.00 at Walmart because it advertised it had a digital amp in it. I needed a CD player for a pair of '83 Heresys that I picked up off Ebay, and I was interested in hearing an all digital product.

Right now I have this little Panasonic driving a Scott 222 and a pair of Heresys in my bedroom. Every time I turn it on I have to laugh because it sounds so good, and costs so cheap. It has some of the cleanest and most detailed bass output you could imagine from such a toy.

I agree with Mark that I think our hobby is about the last 5%. I think that's what most of us are here for, that last 5%. But it's funny how much easier the first 95% is coming these days.

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the yammi starts making popping noises in the right channel. Sometimes its like a crackle sound. It usually happenes 30 mins after the amp's been on and once its starts it occurs freqently (at least twice a song). I dont know where the problem is or what part to check, the headphone out doesnt have this problem though. When I switched the amp from class AB to class A, it started pumping out heat but the crackle/pop problem didnt occur more frequently.

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Dont understand the desire for all digital audio chain, I think digital needs some analogue, hence tube CD players, tube pre-amplifiers, tube active crossovers and tube amplifiers. This thread is starting to sound like my Stereos as Indoor Sport article:

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/senselessrambling/

Now the bad news: I will say that both combinations impressed me. They made me seriously consider the amount of spare change I keep adding to my sound system. As it is set-up now, my system reflects the law of diminishing returns: I keep investing more and more, yet get less and less dramatic sound improvements. Big, old horns warmed by a tube pre-amp from a plateau of power.

10.gif

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On 1/10/2005 5:15:25 PM Colin wrote:

As it is set-up now, my system reflects the law of diminishing returns: I keep investing more and more, yet get less and less dramatic sound improvements. Big, old horns warmed by a tube pre-amp from a plateau of power.

10.gif

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Beautifully put. As we strive towards the asymtotic black hole of perfection, sometimes we forget that the most obvious solution is sometimes the best. A fine tube pre-amp is, IMHO, a major addition to the quality of the end result 3.gif

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This little Chassis I have for my SI amp will work great.

I ditched the plastic case last night, and was running the SI naked with a car battery. Once I got that volume pot loose, it went crazy. Those pins in those 7 pin plugs are worthless, constant loss of connection.

After some noodling and twisting and tugging, It would calm down.

I tried Bi-amping with the SI running the woofers of the Cornwalls through a active crossover at 600 Hz low pass, and a SE 6BQ5 amp on the horns with the passive network hooked up, the woofer section unhooked.

The little Digi-amp is quick enough to do the bass and keep up with the little SE tube amp, it didn't sound that bad really, but the SI amp did make the woofers sound pretty wooly.

I was still tweaking things in when the active crossover lost a side. So much for that option......

Oh well, I have a breadboard active crossover kit. I'll have to steal some opamps out of a dead CD player, I fried all the others......

I think I'll skip bi-amp and run the digital amp with the Cornwall passive network, it's better that way.

I'll save Bi-amp for the Criterion/JBL combination...

I found a Wall-wart with the female jack from my active crossover kit. 12 volts @ 0.13 amps. That should work.

The VC is history, I bought a micro switch from radio shack for 3 bucks. I'll mount input jacks, and just direct input the chip making into a straight power amp.

And use a 100K stepped attenuator for a volume control.

I do know one needs a CLEAN battery. Dunno about the little SLA jobs, but a run of the mill car battery is not a very clean source of power. Plenty of power, but dirty...

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Tripath announcements from CES...

Carver uses Tripath in amps, also used in some (Athens) Olympic venues:

http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=121527&p=irol-newsArticle&t=Regular&id=659669&

Panasonic uses Tripath in second generation head units:

http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=121527&p=irol-newsArticle&t=Regular&id=660345&

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i just read if you use the Radioshack 1.5A 13.8V supply over a 12V you get better bass and smoother mids. Just something you guys might wanna check out.

my RB-25's can do bi-wire, would two of these digital amps probably power them really well? I see tube guys on other forums praising this digital device like its the beginning of the end for SS and Tube.

how would one hook up two of those amps in a biwire situation? just curious.

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Erukian,

Thanks for the note. That's most interesting that you'd run across someone reporting that this particular adapter provided improvement in the sound. I've been wondering about that myself. At 12v the SI is 10wpc. At 14v it's 15wpc. The convenience of a power adapter is certainly attractive compared to the various batter combinations.

One of the guys who posted a very nice mod page on the net, mentioned his experience. He'd gotten a 12v adapter and it actually measured 15v. I'm starting to wonder if these are consistent enough to count on. BTW, PartsExpress also pairs their SI with a 13.8v 1.5 power adapter.

Nick,

Welcome to the forum.

edit: I'm suggesting to Mark Deneen that he should build a tripath based inexpensive linestage only integrated.... the McPeach.

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I agree regarding the convenience of a power adapter over sla's and the like. I've had one of these amps kicking around for a few months collecting dust. I picked it up thinking I may build an integrated amp out of it for the office. Bone stock it sounds pretty good. Regarding the adapter, I will need a panel mount power jack. Would this one from Radioshack work(PN 274-1576)? I have to admit that this will be my first DIY project, so I'm a little clueless. Also, does anyone have any recommendations for a selector switch for a relatively cheap price?

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F005%5F000&product%5Fid=274%2D1576

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" He'd gotten a 12v adapter and it actually measured 15v. I'm starting to wonder if these are consistent enough to count on."

That probably would have been an unregulated unloaded power supply. Loaded down closer to its rating it would have dropped down closer to 12v of actual output but it would vary with load.

That is why regulated supplies are obviously a lot nicer from a consistency standpoint.

Shawn

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On 1/10/2005 10:05:21 PM mike stehr wrote:

I do know one needs a CLEAN battery. Dunno about the little SLA jobs, but a run of the mill car battery is not a very clean source of power. Plenty of power, but dirty...

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If it is that picky about power, I don't think using a wall-wart will help it much. They are usually hailed to be quite the dirty power source. I'd probably stick with the battery, though I might get a slightly smaller one than a full-size car battery. They have actually started selling SLA's at RadioShack for pretty cheap. If it gives you fits, mount a board with a couple large value (at LEAST 1000uF each, probably) capacitors between the SLA and the power input on the board. That would probably help quite a bit. Of course, you could to the same thing with the wall-wart, too. Though, I'd probably snag a 15-18V wall-wart, put caps behind it, then add a low-dropout 12V regulator, then more caps, then feed the power to the board. That would hopefully kill much of the noise.

Disclaimer: Just woke up. If I made a mistake in this post, that is why. 2.gif

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