Guest Anonymous Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 thank you to all who replied!!!! anyways Dodger, I have a triplite regulator as well, Its kind of funny because the lights are on the same circuit as my amps and when I turn them on the lights will dim down and everytime there is a bass hit the lights dim, i always thought it was kind of funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 ---------------- On 2/28/2005 3:55:26 PM D-MAN wrote: Sorry, but what I said is the TRUTH. Argue all you want. DM ---------------- i don't have to argue - i have physics on my side and ohms law... i cannot control what you BELIEVE - but i can tell you about the science of elctricity do some reading on Ohm's law and combine that with the FACT that your electronics take the wall voltage and convert it to Direct Current (5 to 30 volts DC) with a transformer and also uses capacitors to store the energy.... the result is that your CLAIM is impossible and you are just fooling yourself.... BELIEVE it all you want, but it is impossible here is some reading for you to learn about OHM'S LAW http://www.csgnetwork.com/ohmslaw.html http://www.iguanalabs.com/ohmslaw.htm http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/basics/theory/ohm.htm btw - what model audio quest cables did you say you have?... i still can't find any silver coated cables on their website.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 even with a simple ac bridge recifier (4 diodes and a zener diode) circuit it will convert 120 v ac or whatever into a perfect dc voltage using the reverse bias of a zener diode and the rectification circuit of the 4 diodes and a few capacitors. Meaning that as long as the power coming into the transformer isn't way below or above the capacitance( the amount of voltage in the + or - direction on the reverse bias the given circuit can handle NOT actually capacitance ie farads(it was the best word i could come up with and then realized it wasn't that great)) of the reverse bias of the circuit there will be no gain or loss in power. furthermore if the voltage ever did fall below or became greater than the reverse bias voltage it would either fry the zener diode or it would just let a very sine like dc voltage through and your stuff would probably not work. Basically in short there is no realistic way that i can see an increase in volume, unless i am missing something, (which has been known to happen) anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Russ,whats your deal? Next you'll be telling us there's no Santa or tooth fairy.As for cords I'd look on Audiogon,Ebay,I've seen many that will do the job go for $20-40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 I love it when you get all pedantic and stuff. Look, less resistance, more current. End-of-story. Hey, now I got physics on MY side! DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 ---------------- On 2/28/2005 5:05:11 PM D-MAN wrote: I love it when you get all pedantic and stuff. Look, less resistance, more current. End-of-story. Hey, now I got physics on MY side! DM ---------------- LOL i love it when people try to explain something when they have no clue as to what they are talking about!!!! Good humor..... if you think it's louder ... GOOD FOR YOU!!! i'm sure that you have convinced yourself that it really is louder because audio quest uses such "purified copper" in their products....GOOD FOR YOU!!! whatever.... P.T. Barnum was right..... one born every minute! Gramas701 is correct in his comments.... but then some people want to justify the money they spent on their pretty audio "jewelry"... and they can convince themselves of anything... btw - still waiting for the model of those silver coated cables that you claim to have bought from audio quest.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 I wouldn't spend ANY money UNLESS I had hands-on experience and proof that it was indeed "better" listening. I'm not made of money! As far as the particulars, I don't remember - I am at work so I can't get that right now. DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 If it is believed by the person or perceived, it is not for us to judge, unless we are paying for it all. Each side has their point, but the equipment belongs to and is used by D-Man. Russ you have your points that you've expressed and posted your support. What is now missed is this has been a simple set of questions, with opinions given. It is the decision of Gramas 701 as to what to buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 there is absolutely no scientific measurements of ANY aspect of power in a power cable that has ever been done that proves a single claim of any "high end" power cable.... if the cable is of sufficient gauge to carry an adequate amount of current, then there is NO DIFFERENCE in the amount of current a device receives!!! no amount of fancy ad copy can change that fact.... i can't believe the same posters who laugh at bose and rag on that company for it's overpriced products actually buy aftermarket power cables.... the mark-up on these pieces of audio jewelry is probably 50 times worse that the markup on bose products.... if you think you get more current, then you think it sound better.... perfect example of placebo effect.... big, thick cable (over half of it is simple rubber insulation) MUST carry more current because it is "thicker" than the cable that came with my unit.... a generic 14 gauge 6 ft power cable will easily pass 20 amps without any difficulty..... and no one here has any components that require more than 20 amps to operate.... heck - most of us run our entire systems on a 15 amp circuit.... "purified copper" or "perfect-surface copper" will not make any difference at all to the transformer that it is feeding.... do you really understand what the transformer and capacitors are really doing inside your amplifier and other audio components????? or are you just going to say "less resistance = more current" and expect that to be an adequate explanation???? yep.... p.t. barnum was right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Try some different cables before you make up your opinion. Or call people fools. DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 here we go again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 ---------------- On 2/28/2005 6:32:46 PM D-MAN wrote: Try some different cables before you make up your opinion. Or call people fools. DM ---------------- i didn't call anyone a fool.... and i have tried more than a few cables in my systems..... they were all returned because there was no difference... either in current flow (measured) or in the sound (double blind tested with a friend's help) but if you BELIEVE that it improves the sound in your system... then GOOD FOR YOU!! i won't bore you with anymore science because you don't seem to be interested in the actual reality of electricity.... but you can read the latest in many very long threads on this topic over on avs forum..... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=508501 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 I should let this go, but I'm at work, so what the heck... I like a good argument, too. 1) I have a McIntosh MC300. Sucks the juice right out of the wall. You think that it doesn't make a difference. fine. 2) I have a Meridian 2400 cd player. You think it doesn't make a difference? fine. 3) I have 2 6550 60 watt mono heads. You think it doesn't make a difference? fine. The only question I have is where do you get your information? {edit} No, you didn't call anyone a fool. I meant "sucker". I still take umbrage to the implication, though. DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 ---------------- On 2/28/2005 7:25:44 PM D-MAN wrote: I should let this go, but I'm at work, so what the heck... I like a good argument, too. 1) I have a McIntosh MC300. Sucks the juice right out of the wall. You think that it doesn't make a difference. fine. 2) I have a Meridian 2400 cd player. You think it doesn't make a difference? fine. 3) I have 2 6550 60 watt mono heads. You think it doesn't make a difference? fine. The only question I have is where do you get your information? {edit} No, you didn't call anyone a fool. I meant "sucker". I still take umbrage to the implication, though. DM ---------------- *sigh* you do not understand some basic electrical principals in your owners manual of your Mcintosh MC-300, you will have a technical specifications page and on that page it will list the maximum power consumption of the amp if it is running at full power.... in your case - 300 watts per channel..... i assume that you don't run at 300 watts per channel continuously - but for this learning session, we will assume that you are running your amp at full volume all the time.... since i couldn't find the owner's manual of a discontinued mcintosh product, i am quoting the following specs from the current mcintosh MC-402 amplifier - rated at 400 watts per channel.... from page 18 of the owner's manual Power Requirements 100 Volts, 50/60Hz at 12 amps 110 Volts, 50/60Hz at 11 amps 120 Volts, 50/60Hz at 10 amps 220 Volts, 50/60Hz at 5 amps 230 Volts, 50/60Hz at 5 amps 240 Volts, 50/60Hz at 5 amps http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/data/manuals/MC402om.pdf please note..... the maximum power draw that the above amplifier will draw at 120 volts is only 10 amps.... and that is if the amplifier is producing a full 400 watts per channel continously in average use with inefficient (non-klipsch) speakers you might be running 10 to 20 watts per channel on average..... with klipsch speakers you are probably running only a couple of watts of power - if that!!!! so your current draw (amperage) will be close to only 1 to 2 amps on the power line..... the bottom line is that your big mcintosh amp can only draw 10 amps at maximum output (or less) so much for "Sucks the juice right out of the wall"....... you have some very good equipment listed there!!!.... and if you take the time to read the avs thread that i linked to - you will see it mentioned several times..... better equipment has better transformers and higher quality capacitors to better take care of power line problems..... lower cost equipment with cheap transformers would be more likely to have problems if there were power line problems... also please note from the power requirement chart listed by Mcintosh.... the amp can run at almost any voltage from 100 volts to 240 volts... the only thing that changes is the power draw (amps) btw - i get my information from reading owner's manual - like the Mcintosh manual above.... as well as about 10 years being involved in the electronics industry - either working at an electronics distributor (working in pro audio) or currently working at an electronics manufacturer.... i need to know the electronic basics in order to do my job... but the basic electronics i learned in high school physics - here is a helpful chart for you Ohm's Law defines the relationships between (P) power, (E) voltage, (I) current, and ® resistance. One ohm is the resistance value through which one volt will maintain a current of one ampere. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp i should not have implied "sucker"......i do apologize.... more appropriate would have been "grossly misinformed" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 I tried it, and I liked it, I bought it. DM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 ---------------- On 3/1/2005 1:31:15 AM D-MAN wrote: I tried it, and I liked it, I bought it. DM ---------------- good for you! i hope you enjoy your pretty cable! because the only differences from a low cost generic cable is in it's appearance..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpm Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 Can someone please tell me why my amp and preamp of the same manufacturer are 2 prong and 3 prong respectively (can't remember which one is which)? Why not one or the other? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrWho Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 ---------------- On 3/1/2005 10:26:03 AM jpm wrote: Can someone please tell me why my amp and preamp of the same manufacturer are 2 prong and 3 prong respectively (can't remember which one is which)? Why not one or the other? ---------------- Well the short explanation is that the grounding plug is more of a safety precaution than anything else so I would assume that your amp is the one with the three prongs. Don't quote me on this, but I believe one of the terminals on the two prong is connected to the ground at the electrical box in your basement...as is the third prong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 ---------------- On 3/1/2005 12:26:05 PM DrWho wrote: ---------------- On 3/1/2005 10:26:03 AM jpm wrote: Can someone please tell me why my amp and preamp of the same manufacturer are 2 prong and 3 prong respectively (can't remember which one is which)? Why not one or the other? ---------------- Well the short explanation is that the grounding plug is more of a safety precaution than anything else so I would assume that your amp is the one with the three prongs. Don't quote me on this, but I believe one of the terminals on the two prong is connected to the ground at the electrical box in your basement...as is the third prong. ---------------- Good simpiflication and explanation. dodger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minn_male42 Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 ---------------- On 3/1/2005 12:26:05 PM DrWho wrote: ---------------- On 3/1/2005 10:26:03 AM jpm wrote: Can someone please tell me why my amp and preamp of the same manufacturer are 2 prong and 3 prong respectively (can't remember which one is which)? Why not one or the other? ---------------- Well the short explanation is that the grounding plug is more of a safety precaution than anything else so I would assume that your amp is the one with the three prongs. Don't quote me on this, but I believe one of the terminals on the two prong is connected to the ground at the electrical box in your basement...as is the third prong. ---------------- You are correct!... the ground cable is connected to the neutral wire in your breaker/fuse box! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts