2ndGenKlipsch Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 I picked up my new Belles yesterday and as expected, they are going to need a little work. Overall, the cabinets are in decent shape. There are several small scratches and scuffs, but these are to be expected with speakers that are nearly 30 years old and have been moved across the country a few times. I started cleaning them tonight with decent results until I started on the tops. I started out with some Murphy's Oil Soap and water and gently wiped down one side and the top of one speaker to test the results. I then put some Formby's Lemon Oil on the cleaned side and top. The side turned out beautifully, but the top looks splotchy with certain parts soaking up the oil and other areas not soaking it up. My first question is: is the oil soap/lemon oil approach the preferred method of cleaning and conditioning the Walnut on my Belles. Secondly, how can I get a more uniform look after oiling the wood? Could the splotchy areas be caused by wax buildup? My dad uses Formby's Deep Cleansing Buildup Remover on his Belles and Khorns. Has anyone else had any experience using that product to clean their speakers? One final question, could I safely rub out any minor scuffs or scratches with 0000 steel wool without damaging the finish??? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 What type of finish is on the belles? Is it a laquer or oil finish on top of the walnut? On the back of the speaker, on the label, it should indicate the type, WO would stand for walnut, oil finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ndGenKlipsch Posted March 28, 2005 Author Share Posted March 28, 2005 I'll have to check when I get home. I did check the serial numbers and I know they are 78's, but I didn't check the finish b/c I assumed they only came in laquer since the only finished listed on Klipsch's main site are laquer finishes. I'll check and post when I get home this evening. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 New belles are available in a lacquer finish, but the older ones were available in an oil finish as well. If is it a lacquer on there, then the spots that are scratched will absorb oil, where the spots that are not, will not, because of the lacquer finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klipsch kid Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 Hi, I just finished cleaning my Belles and they turned out beautiful. I used 0000 steel wool very lightly to take off a very thin layer of dirt and than wiped it off. I used tong and teak oil . put on the oil and let stand for a bout 20 minutes. than buff with a soft lint free cloth. you can repeat the process 24 hours later for more shinier finish. I hope this helps. I will post some pictures of my Belles later this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ndGenKlipsch Posted March 28, 2005 Author Share Posted March 28, 2005 My speakers are Walnut Oil. So does anybody have any explainations for the lemon oil not absorbing evenly? Could it be wax buildup? Should I try the Formby's buildup remover??? I may end up going with tung oil in the end, but for now I just need to clean these puppies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 Boiled Linseed Oil is what Klipsch uses on Oil finishes...Tung Oil is a finish I believe...was the Murphy's Oil Soap areas completely dry??? Perhaps they absorbed the oil soap in those areas and couldn't absorb more? Good Luck. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 If the previous owner was a smoker or used lots of furniture polish, you could have a buildup on your finish. If the Murphy's didn't harm the finish the first time,, maybe give it another go, if rag gets dirty looking, you're still removing old grime. My Mom smoked and it took 4 goings with Murphy's soap to clean all the gunk off her piano. Likewise with furniture polish. My real wood paneling in my home took 3 times, like it hadn't been cleaned in 30 years. Murphy's will keep cleaning until rag is clear. Then a light water rinse and thoroughly dry before attempting any other refinish. Then use the BLO or other oil approach to shine em up. Several coats over several days is best. I'd recommend Scotch-brite vs steel wool if you want to do the all-over fine polish, but test a hidden area first in all cases. Dont press down or you'll burn through the stain onto raw veneer. Don't panic and take your time.... Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted March 28, 2005 Share Posted March 28, 2005 If using the scotchbrite method, find a white scotchbrite, used for cleaning chrome, it is the finest grade available at your local bodyshop supply house. Re: BLO ( boiled linseed oil ) Rags used to apply this finish will spontaneously combust, it is best to dispose of them as soon as you are done using them, I would recommend burning them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted March 29, 2005 Share Posted March 29, 2005 Congrats on getting the Belles. I had run into a similar problem when refinishing/cleaning up used furniture -this is a guess on why the treatments are not absorbing evenly. There are furniture waxes/oils on the market that contain silicone. If this is the case, it presents a real headache since it is quite difficult to remove (everything is repelled by the silicone). The silicone was used since it gives a nice glistening finish to the wood. As a reminder to others: avoid using furniture products that contain silicone. I hope this was not the case for you. Good luck -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 29, 2005 Share Posted March 29, 2005 The silicone can also cause some glues to release. Certainly best to stay away from them. Not to be confused with silicone sealant, however. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richieb Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I first used Liquid Gold to feed the dry finish on my Oak Belles. The next day followed up with 0000 wool and Howards Restore a Finish. You can get this in various shades of finish. Went over the entire cabinet two times and was left with a nice smooth finish and just a bit of sheen. I used caution and used blue painters masking tape to protect the grill cloth along all edges as the Howards contains a light solvent along with its coloration. I completely covered the top grill with paper for added protection. Good luck. They are worth the extra effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hsosdrum Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I bought a pair of K-WO Klipschorns in 1978 (autographed by PWK himself) and back then Klipsch did not use boiled linseed oil on their oiled walnut speakers, they used Casey's True Oil, a gun stock oil that can be found in gun stores. They applied the oil directly from the bottle to the wood. (I got this info directly from Bob Moers, who was the President of Klipsch at that time.) When I got my speakers I also bought a couple of bottles of Casey's True oil and over the next year ot two rubbed an extra dozen or so coats into them using an old T-shirt, sanding lightly between coats with 400 - 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper. When I was done they looked simply gorgeous -- the fronts looked like they were covered with glass and the finish was deep and luxurious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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