Hey, Gurus and Nerds! What soldering iron do you use?

[Erik Mandaville]

Dean:

The combination of acetalyne and oxygen, which provides extremely high temperatures, is really best reserved for larger tube sockets, like those used for the big 4 pin triodes. I've had good results using it on speaker binding posts, as well.

Yikes! We use both gas and arc welding for steel sculpture at school (well, when I taught college art, anyway...), but those tanks bring back memories of when I cut my Schwinn stingray bike to pieces when I was in 6th grade in order to install a pivoting swing arm at the junction of the bottom bracket and chain stays -- and then install a pair of motorcycle shocks I got from a Yamaha 125 motorcycle. I used to go to the local garage to watch the muffler guy weld and repair old mufflers, and learned how to set the guages and everything. I used the equipment one day when he was at lunch or something, and the owner of the garage came and found what I was doing. After an initial chew-out, he let me finish the work under the supervision of the welder when he came back! Actually, the welder had a better idea for a swingarm (I used a brass door hinge).

The shocks worked until I tested them by jumping off a sidewalk, and the bike broke in half. That year my dad got me a home arc welder from Sears.

Erik

[fini]

Erik:

"I think it's best to get an iron of lower rather than higher wattage for most types of connections. This enables very quick heating of the joint to get the connection made, without the possibility of damaging heat sensitive components. That can happen with a lower temp./wattage iron."

Hi Erik! Can you clarify this? I'm not sure if you're recommending a high- or low-wattage iron!

[sfogg]

"If you need the best, you need a Metcal."

That is what I have heard too but I have never used one. Any

suggestions on a model that can also be used to rework SMT? The

building of the SMT is done though over reflow.

Shawn

[fini]

What do "SMT" and "ESD-safe" mean, and why would "rework" require a different iron? I looked at various manufacturer's websites, all with helpful info in choosing the right model, EXCEPT they never mention which model is good for rebuilding old tube amps... ;^) These are ALL no-doubt much fancier than anything guys used back when these amps were originally put together!

[sfogg]

" What do "SMT" and "ESD-safe" mean, and why would "rework" require a different iron? "

SMT = Surface Mount Technology. This is what pretty much any current digital circuit (among others) is built using. These are the very small parts which are on one side of the circuit board alone compared against through hole parts which mount through the board. Nothing you need to worry about for working on a tube amp.

ESD = Electro-static discharge. Important when working around ICs and chips but not so important when working on a tube amp.

Shawn

[sfogg]

This is an example of a SMT part soldered to a circuit. For scale that chip is around the size of a nickel.

Shawn

[fini]

Thanks, Shawn!!

[NOSValves]

Erik: "I think it's best to get an iron of lower rather than higher wattage for most types of connections. This enables very quick heating of the joint to get the connection made, without the possibility of damaging heat sensitive components. That can happen with a lower temp./wattage iron." Hi Erik! Can you clarify this? I'm not sure if you're recommending a high- or low-wattage iron!

Man I though I was the only one around here that could be confusing LOL!!

Craig

[scott0527]

I may have to give the HAKKO brand a whirl. I own three Weller stations and my oldest one I like the best but tips are hard to find. When you compare the old Weller to the new versions there quality has really went south.

Craig

Weller is owned by Cooper Tools, they have bought up many great old tool brands and slowly lessened them into Home Depot acceptable products. That's great for me, since the company I work for makes tools that compete with one of their brands.

[J.4knee]

http://www.all-spec.com/cgi-bin/fccgi.exe?w3exec=showitem&w3product=WES51&w3path=cat&sp=weller

[Erik Mandaville]

Fini:

"I think it's best to get an iron of lower rather than higher wattage for most types of connections. This enables very quick heating of the joint to get the connection made, without the possibility of damaging heat sensitive components. That can happen with a lower temp./wattage iron."

I'm sorry about that -- what I wrote is very confusing! I meant that it's better to use a higher temp/power iron if possible for the majority of connections.

For some things, such as the voice coil connections on tweeters, I generally use a lower temperature iron because. As Shawn said, with the Wellers you can get a variety of tips depending on what kind of work you want to do -- a very fine conical tip, for example, works well for PCBs -- at least I've had good results with them.

Erik

[Marvel]

I've used a cheap GC Electronics temp controlled station for years. I'm sure it is a re-branded iron. (not branding iron fini!) It has worked very well. I almost always have it on the same temp. I use a 2% silver solder for most of my work, of very small diameter. Not much flux in it, so I sometimes use 60/40 with more flux in the core. It depends on what I am soldering on.

I have used this to do some rework on smt devices before and is worked pretty well. If I did it all day, I would buy some other piece of equipment.

[Champagne taste beer budget]

It certainly won't get daily use, but I know a good tool makes the job easier and more pleasant, with better end results.

OK... I wanna know... HOW did you get a tape of my wifes words on our wedding night???? [][6][]

Actually, I use a Weller like Thebes has here at the shop, not sure of the model number, similar unit at home, if I did more intricate or serious soldering I'd surely look into one of the variable units, they's be the ticket for a workbench that saw a lot of solder hitting the floor. Good luck with whatever you choose.

[fini]

Well, I ended up buying the Hakko from HMC Electronics. I added 2/ 0.12" and 2/0.06" "screwdriver" tips, along with a pound of Kester 60/40 .025" solder. Free shipping! Thanks everyone!

[Erik Mandaville]

Fini:

That will get you going for sure!

Good luck, and have fun!

Erik

[fini]

Thank you, Erik! You will certainly be kept informed of the progress (on the MK-IVs). I may attempt a little brain-pickin' from you and many others here!

Here in fact is the latest update on my Dynaco project: Shannon Parks is cutting down a pair of his ST70 boards (he doesn't make one for the MK-IV or MK-III). Also, he offered to reform the multicaps, so I removed them (woo-hoo! desoldering!), and sent them to him (along with the old boards, which I decided to just give him, so he could get a screw-hole pattern). He's almost done reforming the caps, which turn out to have 1992 date codes! He says they are fine. Additionally, he's sending me an original PWK BS button, given to him by Paul!

[Erik Mandaville]

Fini:

You know what? there aspects of that iron that look kind of Weller-esque to me. I'm thinking about getting a new one -- where did you get yours?

That's great progress on your project! I'm sure you've already read and know this: It really helps to clean the tip regularly on the sponge, and tin the clean tip -- for both soldering and desoldering. Radio Shack sells little spools of solder wick, which works great for removing excess solder from joints. It sometime leaves a little residue, but that can be carefully scraped away with the fine tip of a razor knife (aka X-acto) before the new leads are crimped once around the joint and resoldered.

Cool, it sounds like you're enjoying the process.

Erik

[3dzapper]

I'm jealous about the button![]

Screw the boards.

After Shannon drills the holes that is.-) Have fun fini. The quality of Shannon's boards is maybe the best on the DIY scene. If they sound as good as they are built you are in for a treat. What tubes is he using? 12AX7 and 12AU7 like his ST-35 ?

Rick

[NOSValves]

Thank you, Erik! You will certainly be kept informed of the progress (on the MK-IVs). I may attempt a little brain-pickin' from you and many others here! Here in fact is the latest update on my Dynaco project: Shannon Parks is cutting down a pair of his ST70 boards (he doesn't make one for the MK-IV or MK-III). Also, he offered to reform the multicaps, so I removed them (woo-hoo! desoldering!), and sent them to him (along with the old boards, which I decided to just give him, so he could get a screw-hole pattern). He's almost done reforming the caps, which turn out to have 1992 date codes! He says they are fine. Additionally, he's sending me an original PWK BS button, given to him by Paul!

\

Fini,

IMHO you just made your first mistake. Reforming those cans especially after the SS rectification they have been subject too for ? years is not going to do you justice. Also the PS is a very important place to do some serious upgrading. New fresh upgraded original type cans can be bought for $35 each from AES why in gods name would you keep them. Reforming does not make the cap new in anyway. IMHO you really need to get off your tendency to "cut a corner to save a buck" or your always going to cut your audio nirvana short. Do it right, Do it the first time and forget it. I suggest you ask Mark if my word isn't good enough for you.

However Shannon Parks boards looks to indeed be very nice. I checked over the schematic and it looks really great circuit wise also. I bet its better then Roy's version. In fact I was suppose to send him a 7591 tube to trade for one of his ST70 so I could try it. I completely forgot! I'm going to email him again and see if the offer still stands. But I think Shannon is way off on his reform theories in practice there is no way to bring even those 14 years old cap back to 100% efficient performance let alone if they were original.

Craig

[jt1stcav]

Personally, I think Gregg spent way too much for some fancy soldering iron when he could've got this tool for only $19.95...(I said "tool", tee-hee)[:$]