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smilins double bass bin Stevewalls


Tom Mobley

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... I also have Dodd 120's, and am gonna get me some 300b amps too. I am really wondering if I should be bi-amping these suckers ...

Steve, I really don't want to set these networks up for passive biamping. Some people call it "fools biamping", and for good reason. Keep it simple -- one good amp will sound better.

Tom, got your voicemail. You're on my list of people to call tonight.

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Steve,

Sorry, I didn't realize this thread was back up to the top, I've been getting killed at work and at home this week, haven't been at the computer much. I actually do have some more pics, but I need to download them off the camera and resize, rotate, etc.. Then I can post up some more.

Apparently the Deaninator is ready to roll on the crossover build. I spent the biggest part of two days cutting and edging veneer. I had to order a little more, came up a hair short. There was actually enough square footage, but I didn't like the last pieces for the tophat. Fortunately, Certainly Wood had a little of the that same flitch left.

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got hammered for 13 hours at work yesterday, too burned out to fiddle with pics when I got home. but, woke up at 1:30, fiddled. this is a pic of highly figured cherry veneer spread out on my living room floor, taken from loft, almost too far for the weak-kneed flash on the digicam. first pic is sorting/cutting to length, 50". side of lower cabs are 48", need a little left over for splits and whatnot. Large oval object on right is dining room table, soon to be pressed into service.

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the nitty-gritty. veneer must be taped on both sides of cut before knifing to avoid splitting/tearing. whole thing is sort of a PITA. sheets are ~20" wide, 10' long and .025" thick, clumsy and fragile.

My 10 years of working with dried veneer in plywood mills in Oregon really comes in handy here.

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the results. this pink/salmon is the real color of fresh Cherry. All the heavy darkening you see on Cherry furniture is finish work techniques. Cherry does darken and redden over time by itself, but not as much as people think. This will be dyed/stained to a more conventional Cheery finish before it's over.

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this is the setup I actually ended up with. mo' bettah with 4 clamps. notice the yellow knife at bottom. this is a regular utility knife with the slide-out and break-off blades. they're very sharp but I end up using a new blade for each piece. The veneer often has real brittle spots, the knife must be razor sharp and very little cutting pressure is used. odd shadow pattern courtesy of mini-blinds.

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another view. it's crooked to take advantage of light, need direct light down the straightedge. had to get out my "reading" glasses too. wood under the veneer is MDF. it's pretty much totally grainless, helps a lot with the tendency of the knife to follow the grain. I arrange the veneer each cut so the cut line doesn't crossover any previous cut lines. the knife will follow the previous cut lines if at all possible. follows any grain angle of the veneer too. if the grain is running away from the straightedge I have to turn around, cut the other direction.

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results piling up on the floor. Please Lord don't let me step on any of these. My 8-year old boy seemed to be totally fascinated with the wood, kept walking closer and closer to it. "Daniel, you're making me nervous..."

Narrow cut-off strips are the much lighter sapwood along the edges.

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Why, you ask, is Tom doing this in his living room? A little messy, no? The answer lurks below. The shop is hotter than that, I think. Had to wear headband because of constantly dripping sweat onto the wood, and that was indoors. It was hotter than that a couple days ago, 118*.

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If I was having these speakers built I would request you stop dead in you tracks until the wheather breaks and you can work comfortably. It's awful hard to do a good job at stuff like this when your miserable from excesive heat while working.

Craig

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