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Bass horn ideas again. A possible build. Need criticism.


jwc

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Man. I can't seem to please yall.

So how many do you think are on the real Jub....heh?

Not worried about" teeterin" as it will be on carpet.

I have 4 on the dbb's. Sat flat in my garage. On carpet in my Basement. At Hope they were teetering in that farmhouse.

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So how many do you think are on the real Jub....heh?

Would you like me to find out and get a picture for you? (wouldn't be until tonight that I could take pic and perhaps tomorrow, post it)

Yes it WOULD mean schlepping that top horn off but hey... what's the forum for otherwise?

[<:o)] [ip]

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Richard. That would be great!

When I was at your place, I couldn't see the feet. At this point, I was assuming there was 4 feet placed like they do on the La Scala.

You might just try and shine a flashlight under there. Just please.....Don't hurt yourself.

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JW -

It took a bit of reading, but I managed to get through this entire thread in one sitting! (hmmmmm.....there should be a reward for that. [:)] )

While I might not have understood some of the more in-depth technical commentary, I do understand how difficult a build like this can be. And I will tell you that I admire your drive and am completely amazed at how well your cab is turning out. I'm also greatful for you chronicalling the build.

I must admit though.....when I read threads like this, I feel totally inadequate. [:$]

And if I may be so bold as to make a couple of suggestions.......

To seal the doghouse access door, I would suggest you go to your local auto parts store and look for Fel-Pro engine gasket material. It comes in different thicknesses, but I would use the thinest they have - probably like .030" or less. This stuff can be trimmed to your access door shape with just an exacto knife.

For those woofer attachment screws, instead of using plain 'ol slotted head pan screws, I'd use hex socket head cap screws. That way you can use allen wrench drivers which should make it easier to run the screws in. Just a thought.......

Oh - and one last thing. As for moving those bad boys around, go here: http://www.mcmaster.com/ and look on page 1117. Those ball transfers would be a sweet solution versus using casters. Man I just love McMaster-Carr. If they don't have it, NOBODY does! [:)]

Again - thanks for a most informative thread. Well.....that goes for other such threads too. Now if only I could hear these things. (sigh........ [:(] )

Tom

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Mike. I know you were kidding. So am I. Don't stop any criticism.

I totally agree with the use of a different screw, esp for the woofers. BUT! Where do I get them. PE only has those security head screws and Home Depot only has the slot screws. I would need #10 x 32 x 1 1/2"

I'll have to check out that gasket stuff.

Thanks for the compliments

jc

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JC-

"BUT! Where do I get them. PE only has those security head screws and Home Depot only has the slot screws. I would need #10 x 32 x 1 1/2"

Is there an independent local hardware store with wooden floors and people who know what they're doing? If so, they'll have what you need.

If not, try http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=13&cs=71&cm=25&cd=1221

Worst case, I'll buy a box for you at Frentz & Son Hardware in Royal Oak, MI.

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I of course, did not read this & see the request for the bottom sliders until AFTER I put the horn back on [:@] oh well... [:D]

guess i have reason to play with them again.

none the less, here's the pic of the doghouse door. As an aside, disregard the curved looking "slots" on the hatch. Those are actually made of dust [:$]

The base of the top horn has the slots in it which allow you to angle the base and lock it down (there are some threaded nuts inside the hatch on the underside)

Looks like they use eight screws.

They are countersunk so the HF horn will sit flush

[:D]

post-15072-13819311406456_thumb.jpg

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Roy. I would love to do just what you suggest. My free time to work on this thing is minimal.

I'm out of local T-nuts. Going out of town Thursday through Sunday. On call Tomorrow.

This is killing me.

Richard. That is very Helpful. Any photos of feet?

jc

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Roy. I would love to do just what you suggest. My free time to work on this thing is minimal.

I'm out of local T-nuts. Going out of town Thursday through Sunday. On call Tomorrow.

This is killing me.

Richard. That is very Helpful. Any photos of feet?

jc

Ya know... asking for pics of feet COULD make this thread take a turn for the worse... [;)]

I just got done dragging the wife over as I tipped her back. (tipped the speaker, not the wife [:o])

Hope this helps, kind of hard tipping those things situated in the corner as you saw, with the 2102 next to it. I don't want to booger up the neighborhood [:$]

Oh, and as a matter of perspective, I was behind the speaker pulling it back while Marion was on the floor in FRONT of the speaker. This is the front edge looking towards the back edge.

post-15072-13819311408696_thumb.jpg

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Here is the cabinet complete. Upside down here. Lids/Hatches complete as well.

Will need to solder the internal wires to the terminals. Don't feel like doing it tonight. Had a long day at work.

I have a rediculous amount of screws and T-nuts now. Got the Hex #10 x 32 x 1 1/2 bolts to use for the drivers.

It's gonna be a lot of fun moving this thing in the basement for testing. My Mom comes this week....maybe she will help (good one). I guess I will dolly the dern thing. Hate that.

post-16499-13819311572158_thumb.jpg

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No criticism here dude, looking good!

Get ready for a hair blowing experience [:D]

I AM curious though... if you drag that monster up my way and we hook it up to something... (K402?, or your own HF?) Would you want to use the same crossover numbers in the EV unit? Your own passive?

[*-)]

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